The Kestrel Coat-A Tutorial and a Giveaway Part Two

Hey-ho off we go......
(Don't forget to leave a comment to enter the giveaway)

Following the instructions,gather the sleeve tops between the notches.

Gather between the notches on the lower sleeve pieces.

They will look like this.

Match the notches and pull up the gather threads on the lower sleeve piece until it matches the bottom of the upper sleeve piece.
Knot the gathering threads so the gathers can be evenly distributed without the threads  pulling out.

Ready to sew!

Stitch with the gathers on top. It will make it easier to avoid tucks and keep the gathers even.

Following the instructions,clip the upper sleeve in the seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open and press well taking care not to squash the gathers.

Press well again and then leave the sleeve to rest and cool.

The sleeve lining.

Following the instructions,sew the sleeve side seams taking care to match the seams.

Charlotte has many suggestions for pressing the sleeves open.
As I do not have a sleeve board(Hint hint Jed) I press one side back against the sleeve.

I then flip the sleeve over and do the same with the other side.

Which leaves this result.

And results in a nice open seam.
Pop it to one side to cool and set.

Four little sleeves are we...

Following the instructions,set in the sleeves,matching the under arm sleeve and notches and easing out the gathers.
The sleeves are eased in ,they are not overly gathered or puffy!.

Stitch the seam ''inside the tunnel'' to make it easier.
Check for tucks after sewing.

Following the instructions,clip the seam either side of the under arm seam.

Press the seam well.

I pressed the seam of the coat towards the body of the coat.

And the lining seam towards the sleeve to stagger the bulk.

Following the instructions pin the lining to the coat taking care not to catch the sleeves.
Leave an 8 inch opening at the centre back for turning.

The coat goes together beautifully,the notches allow the neck tie to open up and pin the coat body with minimal wiggling.

When sewing,stick to your seam allowance and pivot at the point that they meet.
It works-trust me!

Pivot here!
Clever Charlotte.

Use plenty of pins!

Lift the presser foot as you pivot leaving the needle in.

Check the front lengths and adjust if necessary.
Charlotte reminds us very nicely.

Press well and trim the seam allowances.
I like to trim off my corners taking care not to cut the stitches.

Consider sewing down to the seam allowance,it gives a neater turn.

Turn the coat carefully through the opening and gently push out the corners.

Roll the lining gently so that it is slight pulled in and the main coat fabric shows on the edge.
Press well.

Pin the collar at the neck to keep it even.

Fold the seam allowance of the coat up.

Fold the lining seam allowance slightly smaller.

Pin in place.

Take particular care pressing the collar-to-coat seam.

As I wanted to top stitch from the coat side I decided to baste the seam allowance first.

I removed this basting stitch after top stitching.

Following the instructions,top stitch the coat edge.
I adjusted my needle position and placed my foot at the edge of the coat  to sew an accurate width.

Loverly jubbly!

Meet Rocky the Snowman
A sock stuffed with rocks-not so cuddly!

I jumped a step and sew my sleeve hems first.
Carefully press the coat hem following Charlottes instructions.
I did mine slightly narrower to gain some length for Liddy's limbs!

Repeat with the lining fabric but slightly narrower.
Charlotte will give you the measurements in the instructions.

Matching the seams,pin in place and sew.
I like to sew ''inside the tunnel'' with small openings.

Rinse and Repeat!

Lidia likes BIG buttons so we had a fiddle with placement.
Sticky tape is very handy!

Mark and make the button holes.
I have found when making big button holes it is best to make them on the small side as they do stretch!

Sew on the buttons.
I like to use embroidery thread. It gives a nice texture and sheen and is very strong!

Complimentary label sewn in-its a beautiful thing!

The Kestrel Coat.

A fabulous look for a minimal sew.

Look at those beautiful gathers.
Look at the line of the garment.

Look at the perfect inside finish!

Swoon....


Now for the nitty gritty kitty.
I made the 4 for Lidia as she measured for the 3 to 4 last time I measured her(whoops) upon re-measuring her her sizing in more 4-5 now.


The 4 fits her perfectly but I could have added 1/2 inch to the sleeves.
Liddy will be 8 in February and is  129 cm's tall. (51 inches)
Glancing at the pattern sheet a size 5 cut to size 7 length would make a lovely overcoat for her.

I find Clever Charlotte patterns accurate to body measurements but add some length if your child is skinny.
I personally do not have a problem with the roomy fit-my pattern will get more use that way.

The instructions are clear and to the point. I love the interfacing pattern piece and the fact the garment is lined rather then fussing with a facing.
It is a child's garment after all not a 10 year wardrobe staple for an adult.

Please leave a comment to enter the giveaway to win your very own copy of the Kestrel Coat. Thank you Charlotte!


The draw will take place on the 18 th of December and I will post after Christmas to miss the crazy season.
Funny things happen to pattern parcels in the festive season!
But we will save that story for later.

Good Luck!
x N