Sewist #16149448 dress for Lidia

My beautiful girl requested a special dress. She had a picture and had already purchased the fabric.

So Matilda hopped onto Sewist and designed the pattern for me.

Sewist is a website that you can use a photo of a dress as an inspiration and design your very own pattern. The bonus is the pattern is then made to your custom measurements so fitting is minimal. Tilly has a good eye so I tend to get her to design them for me.

As I was self lining the bodice I made a 'wearable muslin' and fitted that, then trimmed and altered the pattern before cutting the main.

The under bust area just needed a little taking in, not so bad!

Next I fitted the drop waisted panel. I took this in a little more as Lids wanted it to be quite a snug fit.

Once I achieved the required fit I sewed the top and bottom bodice sections together.

Lidia likes a little padding in her bodice so I attach swimsuit bust pads to the lining. I also added boning to the seams of the waist panels for extra structure. 

I found the front edges of the dress were gaping a little so I ran a gathered stitch along the 'V', just to remove some extra ease.

Lidia was keen for a proper party frock with lots of 'puffiness'. I had a bolt of gold, bridal tulle in my stash. Bridal tulle has a softer hand and is not as scratchy as regular tulle but still gives a nice fullness.

I decided to sew a layer of tulle between the sleeve lining and main, just to accentuate the puff a wee bit.

I sewed the sleeves, finishing them  with a bound, bias edge.

I gathered the sleeve cap with two rows of thread and popped them to one side.

Next I started on the skirt. I like to do a narrow zigzag to neaten the bottom edge.

I gathered the tulle with the bemsilk lining and attached it to the bodice lining.

How I just love sewing a proper frock with all the underpinnings.

On to sewing the main dress. The main skirt has lots and lots of pleats rather than gathers.

I then put the main dress and the lining together, sewing them at the neck line. I trimmed that seam and then reinforced it with horse hair braid, turning, pressing and understitching to the lining.

After that, I set in the sleeves, binding that seam for a perfect finish. I hand sewed the lining to the zipper edge.

This dress had a lot of steps but due to the cotton fabric was not so difficult to sew. 

The firm hand of the fabric also allowed the structured fit.

Can you see the sweet self bow?

I used an invisible zipper. I am not the biggest fan of them but I didn't have a regular zip that was long enough. I absolutely think an invisible zip looks better by a country mile but I have had dreadful luck with them breaking so I avoid them, if I can.

The finished frock!

A perfect party dress!

A perfect fit thanks to my Sewist pattern and a little tweaking.

Beautiful on her.

Perfectly coordinating with her sisters.

Trixie's dress here  and Tildy's dress here

For her brother's wedding. 

Thank you for reading, take care xx Nicole