A Constable of Ravens

I have seen a few Ravens around......
Here ,here,here,here,here,here&here

One comment I have heard repeated is how nice it looks with the waist slightly fitted.
 I agree,but I also like the straight kimono style too!
What's a girl to do?
Why,add a adjustable tab so we can have the best of both worlds!

Construct the top as directed in the pattern(I blogged a few steps here). I used some gorgeous Tula Pink for the lining and indigo wool flannel for the outer top.

Rather then attaching the wool tie in one piece I added a bit in the middle that was the length of the back piece.

I joined this to each tie piece(I had to cut two as I didn't have enough length to cut as one,if you you were able to cut one-cut it equally in half).

Sew the seam allowance of the pieces together leaving an opening in the middle.
This opening should be the width of the tie.

After sewing,stitch the seam allowance down.

It should look like this.

Pin the tie to the top matching the transferred marking line.

Stitch and press well.

Stitch down the other edge of the tie and press well again!
(Do you get really sick of me suggesting this)?

There should be an opening the width of the tie.

Sew the two sides together-take care not to catch the ties in the seams.

After turning the top and finishing it off consider giving the hood a good press on the end of the ironing board.

As I was sewing wool,I let it cool,dry and take the shape before moving it.

Finish off the ties as directed in the pattern.
The tie of the top lining will be the correct length so trim the outer tie to match.

A ready-to-wear Raven.

Good strong lines.

Completely reversible.

Isn't the print divine?
But of course this isn't fitted-is it?
Remember those little openings on the outer tie?
We are going to use them....I will show you how!

Cut a piece of non-curl elastic approximately 2/3's the length of the back.

Using the scraps from the front tie make some tabs(I backed mine with cotton)approximately the length from the edge of the centered elastic to just outside the opening+seam allowances.

Interface one side of the tabs at the curved ends.

Press a narrow seam allowance to the wrong side of the tab pieces.

Pin and sew two tabs together.
It is a good idea to sew with a smaller stitch length.

Trim the seams.

Turn the tabs through.

Press well and insert the elastic into each tab.

Stitch across the elastic and around the edge of the tab.

Choose your buttons and mark the button holes.

Sew the button holes.

Mark the position for the first button.
The tab&elastic should lie flat not stretched for this marking.

Position the buttons at about an inch apart.

Attach the buttons
I use sticky tape to hold mine in place and sew them on with the machine.

Button the tab on the first button and using a nappy pin thread through the casing.

Put the pin through the tab rather then the button hole as you may damage it pulling it through the casing.

The tab pulled through.

Voila-a nice little detail.

No gathers....

Slightly gathered.

As fitted as you fancy!

Adjust the buttons as you need to.
I thought of adding a casing to the lining as well but decided I was happy with the status quo.
You may choose to.
I went with wooden buttons as a feature same coloured buttons would blend in beautifully.


I can't wait to show you the Raven modelled.


x N