Saturday, May 27, 2023

République du Chiffon Danielle Dungarees for Nicole partie un

I have swopped out jeans for dungarees in my capsule wardrobe and I couldn't be happier.
These are my favourite 


For my first pair, I made the size 42 in a black, very stretchy drill.
As I have more tummy than bottom I felt like there was a lot of fabric in the back. Zara was happy to take them off my hands if they didn't suit.
Black is horrible to photograph.

They were fine but I felt a few tweaks could make them a better fit.
So, with a few pattern modifications, I tried again,
Compare the pair.
I sewed the second pair in some vintage Bull denim from deep stash, rigid, no stretch at all.
I lowered the waist by removing a few cm's height from the bottom leg top.

I kept all the width in the front but I did take in the back panel bottoms to narrow the fit. This way I kept tummy ease but removed the extra fabric at the back.
I also added length to the leg so I could fold a cuff.

The snugger fit at the back is more what I was after.
I really like the back panel, it is so warm and comfortable and the straps do not fall off my shoulders.
It also nicely covers some of the 'back bulge' from my bra.
I need the extra tummy room as my waist fluctuates and I find firm things uncomfortable.
No muffin tops in dungarees.
I went all out with the jeans styling with this pair, lots of topstitching with heavy, copper coloured jeans thread.
I purchased my buckles from eBay They take a few weeks to arrive but they are adequate quality.

The front pocket is perfect to pop my reading glasses in.
I am so happy with this sew, the few modifications were easy and made such a difference.
Zara took my original pair and styles them with a fitted top.
She is super cute!
~My Verdict~

A big sew.
The initial tracing of the pattern is a large task, there are a lot of pieces. That said, it sews up very easily but do follow the instructions faithfully. The pocket/button facing is a little counter intuitive and I did have to unpick that after I assumed (after sewing many pairs of jeans) that I knew what I was doing.
Pressing well is important too.
I would suggest making a wearable muslin pair first, possibly in a stretch woven, to check your fit.
I also suggest lining the waist sections in self fabric, not a cotton contrast, as they will wear better. My original pair is starting to wear through, even with the interfacing I applied.
They may be stiffer in the beginning but that will settle down.
I would add extra length to the leg too. I am not tall, 163cm (5' 2) and I had to add length. 
You can always shorten them.

I thoroughly recommend this pattern.

Thank you for reading.... xx Nicole 


Wednesday, May 24, 2023

Mimi G Georgia skivvy for Nicole

A new sew for me, the Mimi G Georgia skivvy.

She had me at the shoulder ruffles...

Multiple pregnancies, no fondness for sit ups, health issues and blah blah blah has lead to my favourite jeans not being comfortable so I have embraced dungarees (to be blogged)  I am always looking for a cute top to style under them.

I was a  little unsure of sizing, my first instinct was to size up but you don't want a sloppy fit under dungarees. I chose a super soft and stretchy cotton/modal from my #ElizasofSunshine stash and went with the size L.

I also didn't add any stabilising to the shoulder seams as the pattern didn't call for it.

As you can see, the ruffles 'fall' off the shoulders on the mannequin and ended up way down my arms.

When I sewed the next one I used a similar knit but ironed thin strips of interfacing to the wrong side of the front and back shoulder seams.

It was a subtle but definite improvement.
Then I decided I wanted a fabulous ruffle.
I had just enough of this very stretchy but firm cotton/lycra to make a 3/4 sleeve version.

I crazy balls LOVE this one. It fits firmly but not tightly. The ruffles sit nicely up on my shoulders and the arms are not too firm on my bursitis. I also find the 3/4 sleeve great for household duties. I am constantly washing my hands and this length is great for that.

Spurred on by my success I decided on an evening version in this lovely, sparkly lurex/poly knit.

A bit too snazzy for everyday but will be fabulous for going out.

To make sure I didn't get any tucks in my seams I embraced basting with this project. I also overlocked the edge of the ruffle before I gathered it, just to prevent curling edges.
Once everything was in place and I had checked all sides, I overlocked in place and then removed the holding stitches.

~My Verdict~
I like Mimi G patterns. A good mix of Indy and Big4 in their presentation and directions.
The sizing is inclusive and there are good range of images of all body shapes.
The neck is a kind fit, it is slim but not tight. I struggle with firm things around my throat and can easily feel strangled, no problem here.

I really like how the skivvy fits, it nips in under my bust but skims over my tummy. I feel like I have some shape without feeling squashed.
If I was wearing this top as 'outer' wear, I would size up through the body but the fit is just right for me under my dungarees.
The shoulder ruffles are adorable but you could easily omit them if they are a bit twee for you.
Not too twee for me!
I am absolutely embracing my 'inner toddler'.

Thank you for reading... xx Nicole 



Sunday, May 21, 2023

Lisette B6296 pyjamas for Lidia

This was a fun (challenging) sew.

Once upon a time, there was a Med student whose Mum sewed clothes for her . One day, she messaged her Mumma and asked her to make some fancy japamas. Something smart that she could change into when she got home from University. Something snappy to not be embarrassed if people dropped in and luxurious to cheer her up if she had experienced a trying day. Said mother had developed a taste for Facebook Market Place and had seen a vintage brocade. The fabric had been purchased in the 1960's but was still in the original bag and pristine. The lovely parent sewed it up and the Med student was best pleased. The End.

My pattern of choice? Lisette B6296.

Made just a few times before...
Don't you just love it when you sew something that works out perfectly.

I sewed Lidia the size 10 top (with slightly narrowed shoulders) and the size 12 bottoms (with an inch removed from the length)

The pyjamas are piped with an 'Old Gold' satin piping I purchased from eBay The buttons vintage and also from eBay.

I piped all that I could pipe.
Grrr, it didn't line up....
The fabric frayed very quickly, so much so that I didn't cut each piece until needed and even though I decided to line them I overlocked all the seams as well to stop them unravelling.

I used cotton lawn as a lining. I simply dropped in a second 'main' with wrong sides together, overlocking the edges (that fraying was bonkers). 

I applied the cuffs (after interfacing and adding piping) to the inside and then wrap the around, enclosing the raw edges and topstitching from the right side.

This differs from the pattern instructions but I like the neater finish.
With the lining, there are not any raw edges at all!

I chose to stitch down the facing, it stops it curling and makes laundering easier.

You can barely notice the stitching.
To line the bottoms, I partially sewed the leg, sans waistband and cuffs, and then used that as a template to cut the lawn. I added a few cm to the length to avoid any 'pulling' from the lining. 
As the back is sewn to a yoke I folded that in half to make my template.
I then put the lining and main, wrong sides together and then treated them as one. Attaching the waistband and cuffs, enclosing all the raw seams.

~Lidia's Verdict~
 I joined a club that does Medicine themed musicals called Med Revue. We had our first rehearsal, themed your best (even royal) Pyjamas. Being very new to clubs, musicals and plays I wanted to nail the theme. 
 Already in need of new Pjs it was the perfect excuse to have some rather extravagant ones made. We went all out with the bright pinky-red fabric with gold details. I love them and was given many compliments. 
 There is really no critique in my opinion for these ones. The fabric is amazing, the buttons and gold piping matched perfectly. The lining makes them feel so comfortable. 
In addition the pattern is a tried and true, I think I have at least two other pairs of pjs with them and intend to have many more made.  Mumma nailed it again! 
~My Verdict~
This fabric was tricky to sew but the results were so worth it. The lining added substance and a quality feel to the garment. 
Liddy is not planning in sleeping in these, just studying and being her fabulous self.
There is enough fabric left to make a dressing gown, which I think could look equally fabulous BUT I need a break first.

Snappy, home and away japamas.

For my beautiful girl.

Thank you for reading... xx Nicole