Monday, November 29, 2021

OOP McCall's 3636 Bustier and Butterick B6338 Overlay skirt for Lidia

 It's that time of the year.... Formal Sewing.

I love this sort of sewing. It is completely unpractical and you often spend longer sewing the garment than they spend wearing it but I love it, all the same.

This years theme was such fun!
Lidia wanted to look like a fairy.
Image from Pinterest.
After discussion, we decided to make the top and skirt separately (so pieces could be used again).
I found this petticoat skirt on eBay.
For the corset top, Lidia chose OOP McCall's 3636, view A. This pattern was extremely good and I recommend searching for it online (it's OOP) if you want to sew something similar.

Lidia chose a pretty piece of Duchess satin (thicker and more lustre than regular satin) remnant from my beloved Elizas Fabrics, and I had enough to self line.
To start with, I sewed and altered the lining to fit Lidia. I drafted the size 10 per her measurements and it wasn't a bad fit, it just needed some shoulder height removed and the side seams taken in a bit. I didn't remove this excess as I figured it would allow for a slight adjustment for a future wearer.
Once I had the fitting sorted I attached the boning. I did shorten mine sightly as I was concerned it would poke into Lidia's stomach. I had a boned top that was very uncomfortable when seated and the formal has three course meal.
Lidia wanted some extra padding around the bust so I used some bust inserts from an old sports crop top and trimmed them to the right shape. Once I had the position correct I hand sewed them in place.

The outer layer is equally labour intensive.
The pieces are interfaced and then a cotton under-lining is cut and each piece is basted together before constructing.
I fitted this again and was very glad I did as it would have been too small if I used the lining. I assume the cotton under-lining made it more rigid.
An open ended zipper is used to close the bustier. I did debate hand-sewing the zip but has it require a fair tug  to do up I didn't want to risk it splitting.
The instructions for final construction are excellent. The outer and lining are sewn in increments and the the shoulder straps are put together via the bagged lining. There is very little hand sewing and the garment feels extremely sturdy.
The overskirt is made from a costume pattern, Butterick 6338 in green stretch satin that we purchased from a fabric sale at Lincraft in Mt Gambier.
I have not been to Lincraft in years but I was trying to source black denim and Spotlight had nothing suitable in stock.  I popped into Lincraft on the off chance and they has a huge sale (50% off all prices) and I snagged some bargains!
The skirt has some serious pleating and gathering (like fabric origami) 

The skirt pieces (and some tulle, not visible) are attached to a waist band.
It is definitely an overskirt (you couldn't wear it alone).
I think it will be a very handy addition to the dress up box. Lidia is planning on being Marie Antionette for Book Week, next year, and I have 10 metres of blue satin that would make a perfect full skirt!

Operation 'Fairy' successfully achieved.

Plenty of poof! 
Lidia looked like a dream and she had a wonderful time.
I really appreciate the online colleges making a effort to plan events such as the formal, as it give the country students a change to mingle.

Thank you for reading... xx Nicole 






Monday, August 2, 2021

OOP Butterick 3642 Top, McCall's M7843 Pants, Zara XMAS

 I like to make my chaps a sewn gift each for Christmas, but fittings and keeping something a surprise can be tricky so I have to rely on good measurement taking. (Not to mention them not being available for said fittings)

I wanted to make Zara some pretty, fun pieces. She changes her 'aesthetic' frequently so I chose fabrics that I thought she may like but Liddy liked as well so if Zara didn't want them, it was not a problem. I guess I considered the garments 'wearable muslins'.

I love this pattern so much!

It needs to be sewn in a very, stretchy knit. The neck is fully faced, with an interfaced piece and you are also instructed to apply interface to the main top. This keeps the neck from pulling out of shape and prevents tucks when sewing an interfaced knit to an un-interfaced knit.
The bottom of the top has a slightly gathered elastic casing and I decided to do the same to the sleeves hem (gather, rather than leave floaty).

For the bottoms I used McCall's M7843 view D.


I shortened the legs by a few inches (at the shorten line) and also tapered the legs in at the knee and kicked out a bit more at the hem to exaggerate the bell bottom.
The seperate waistband give a smart finish to an elastic waist pant.

I used the leftover fabric from Zara's 21st dress (to be blogged) a very soft and pretty knit from Spotlight.

For her second outfit I made her a blouse and skirt.



The blouse is a similar style to Matilda's top 

I used some pretty, apple green cotton gingham from deep stash.

I decided to gather the sleeve cuffs with elastic rather than leave flounced.
For the skirt I used Lekala #5984 in a stretch cotton drill from Massdestash on eBay 
I shortened the hem and raised the splits slightly.
Zara requested the next one a little shorter and the splits a bit higher but the fit was perfect!



~Zara's Verdict~

(Couldn't pin her down) 



~My Verdict~
I had a lot of fun sewing these pieces up for Zara. I doubt she will pair any of them as outfits (although I loved them on her) but I hope will wear them with other things.
As wearable muslins, they were a great success. I am so happy with the fit considering they were all sewn by measurement only.
Lidia was very taken with Zara's top too and has requested her own versions.
It's a reasonably complicated sew, very much a 'top' not a 'tee' but the results are worth it.

The pants were a very quick sew and now I have a pattern sorted I shall be able to sew them on demand. I think they could make a nice trouser look bottom in a ponte or heavy weight jersey too.

The blouse has won my heart! I could see it in eyelet, soft denim, lawn... the list in endless and as it ties, it is adjustable.


I nailed the skirt (If I do say so myself) and I think this will be very handy for Zara as a work skirt (as is) and a shorter version for fun!
Lekala rarely lets us down.

Thank you for reading .... xx Nicole 













Friday, June 11, 2021

Lekala blouse #4293 and Deer and Doe Chataigne shorts for Matilda

*Please note, I have a moving slideshow further down my blogpost, please be aware if you are photo sensitive*


 I am hoping to have family photos taken in June. After a group chat, we decided we would like something a little edgy similar to a cast photo.

Lidia was super helpful and started a Pinterest board tagging my Sister in law, who's business Adelaide Portrait Studios is taking them for us.

Image from Pinterest
Deciding on a colour 'scheme' was next. I felt very uncomfortable 'telling' my adult children (and their partners) what to wear so Elsa suggested choosing a palette, and working from that.
After much discussion in the Keller group chat we came up with the above.
Tilly was keen to wear Lidia's coat and asked for some new pieces to wear with it.
First, a blouse.
Tilly chose the flouncy Lekala #4293 made in a linen/cotton mixed leftover from Trixie's new dress. (To be blogged)

The fabric was from deep stash and I think I was given it from a dear neighbour when she retired from dressmaking.
Thank you Mrs Brady!
The blouse is lovely with lots of details.
It has a seperate front placket, collar stand, tulip sleeves and lots of lovely darts for a good fit.

I love a good shoulder dart!

The underarm seam is finished with binding which you could hand sew in place for a clean finish (Tilly will/is wearing this a lot so I wanted it sturdy so I machine sewed)
The pattern had a single layer for the tulip but I choose to self line rather then have an hemmed edge.

The flounces are supposed to be finished with a machine rolled hem but I just couldn't get it to work. My machine kept eating the flounce!
So I gave up, cut a new one and finished with a very narrow zigzag.
She loves it!

She has some growth room (which is great) but we are very happy with the fit.

For shorts we chose the Deer and Doe Chataigne 
Which I have sewn in the past for Elsa
Lidia wears them now so I had them for Tilly to try on. They were a bit big so I traced the size down.

I used the very last bits of the herringbone wool to make these!

That was one eBay bargain that went a long way!

I decided to line the shorts to make them warmer to wear and guard against any itchiness.

To add a lining I ...
#1 Cut the front lining up to waistband height, did not cut pocket opening.
#2 Under-stitch pocket openings rather than top stitch.
#3 Treat full short lining like a skirt, sew the tops together before the legs and pull shorts over one leg so they can still turn, then pull through and attach leg cuffs.
When sewing the faux flaps, I stitched with the seam allowance turned in and then hand sewed in place.
No visible raw edges.
They turned out so snappy!
These are a great shorts pattern for Tilly.

Liddy is a bit miffed they don't fit her!
Matilda is very happy with the look.

She also put together this outfit.

Which is pretty snappy too.

The waistcoat was made for Liddy

Sometimes hand me downs are good!

I look forward to sharing the other sews soon!

Thank you for reading xxx Nicole