Sunday, March 17, 2019

Lekala #4635 Denim Skirt for Me!

It is the best feeling.
When you sew something so successful and practical that you wear it
Style Arc Boyfriend shirt, RM Williams jacket, boots and belt, 
I made a denim skirt with the leftover fabric from my Vado jeans
The custom fit Lekala #4635
I needed a new denim skirt, my 20 year old version is being retired to the beach cottage (it was a pull on, elastic waist one which has done good service but seen better days)
The panelled styling caught my eye, I like the topstitching opportunity and the fact that it would use odd pieces of fabric.

I did do a two inch hem but mine was definitely shorter than their line drawing.
Which I wanted.
I did take in the side seams just a bit and I think I could have taken a bit more. That said, this fabric has some stretch and the pattern called for rigid.
The skirt sits on my hips and they are not wide in comparison to my waist and with a fairly flat bottom, if I don't wear a belt, it slips down.
However, it gives me great tummy ease and is super comfortable, especially travelling.
The kick pleat is perfect, I can run in this sucker.
It is actually very cool to wear, even on hot days. I had planned to make denim shorts, and I still do but I think the wearability of this has delayed that project.
I am still thoroughly embracing my capsule wardrobe and have reached the stage of fine tuning it.
I removed a few pieces that don't fit nicely and I am replacing them with ones that do.
My sister is happily taking these clothes.
 As a side project, I am creating a 'Beach Capsule'. 
I find I prefer black basics instead of my past navy pieces. So the navy is being transitioned to my beach cottage wardrobe.
I like the thoughtfulness that capsule wardrobe-ing inspires in me.
I sew only what I need and it stops me purchasing that pretty fabric, just because.
~My Verdict~
Super pleased with this one.
I wear it so often, for home and for 'out'.
It is a little on the big side but I am hoping a hot wash may sort it.
It was a good, quick sew and very easy to fit.
I did 'peg' the hem a wee bit more but the pattern is inclined towards that style, anyway.
I feel very sporty and trim in this, which is jolly nice as I am a little overweight (post weaning boom). If I shed the 8 kg I hope to lose I think I will make another, exactly the same BUT I think I will hang on to this as it will be handy if I gain weight again.
As this skirt doesn't have side pockets (my only grumble) I don't think I will even need a new pattern, I will just take it in at the side seams.

Thank you for reading... xx N

Saturday, March 16, 2019

OOP Simplicity 5169 dress for Matilda

Matilda had some fun during my last fabric shopping trip in Melbourne.
As well as liking colourful  fabrics Matilda loves metallics.
She found some lush, bronze linen-ish stuff in the $2 bin. I let her have 3m.
She chose the fabric, I chose the pattern.
I have wanted to sew this dress for ages. Tildy loved the sleeves.
She is ALL about the sleeves.
As I had a lot of fabric I cut the full length dress.
I was also able to #ninjacut a Class Picnic blouse
After consulting with Tildy we took a deep hem and finished it just below the knees.
I hemmed it by hand to play up the bespoke feel.
I left all the fabric in the hem so that it falls nicely and if she wants to go as a medieval princess to a costume party I can easily let it down.
The sleeves are spectacular and Google tells me they are known as lantern sleeves. 
Tildy was very keen to have the dress fitted at the waist.
As the waist pieces are sew to the bodice before sewing the side seam, we fitted as we sewed. It was not hard to gather the skirt a little tighter to match our adjustments. 
The waist piece was only a single layer, interfaced. I dislike bare interfacing on the inside of a garment so I double layered AND interfaced.
This ended up being quite bulky at the zipper installation. Next time I would omit interfacing in the seam allowances.
The zipper finish is not the neatest but I was loathe to unpick it as the fabric was reasonably fragile.
I comfort myself that is is hard to spot a moving target.
For all its glamor it was a very straight forward sew.
The sleeves are finished with an elastic cuff.
I topstitched the seams to encourage the fabric to behave but I rather like the finish, it almost looks like self piping.
The high collar is rectangular and self facing.
The silhouette is to die for!
~Tildy's Verdict~
(To be advised)
~My Verdict~
I absolutely adored this sew.
I would have never chosen metallic linen for a nine year olds dress but it works.
The fabric has just enough body to hold the shape of the sleeves but it is very light. Matilda has worn it on some very warm days and says it is has good air flow (the cloth has quite a loose weave)
So far, it has washed up very well and I think it will transition nicely into Autumn with her gorgeous 'Aunty Sarvi' knitted vest over it.
Trixie and Tildy in there beautiful Sarvi vests.

Thanks for reading.... xx N

Thursday, March 14, 2019

Clever Charlotte Finch Shorts for Matilda #sneakyschooluniforms

Every now and then a very special pattern comes along.
The Clever Charlotte Finch shorts is one of those.
I have a full step by step tutorial if you would like some help with construction.
I made them many times for Elsa and Zara.
They loved them as they are very full in the bottom with a tailored front finish. This pattern goes up to a size 8, which the Twins are wearing above, aged 13.
I also made them for Lidia.
And Tiny Tilly!
Stretch linen with coconut shell buttons
 They are Matilda's favourite for school.
Stretch cotton sateen with bunny buttons.
She likes the ease the full bottom gives her but the elastic waist can be tightened for her little waist.
To make them a little more school suitable I drafted the pattern Size 5 length of Size 8.
It just gives some nice leg length without extra poof.
I like how little fabric is needed.
These were sewn from a jagged remnant of wool suiting.
I lined them with some silky red satin for warm and comfort.
For a full tutorial see here 
Another nice little school bottom pattern is the...
The Peridot pants
These are a size 5 length of size 7.
The pattern I drafted for Lidia, so cute!
They do up with a side zipper.
And the leg button up with elastic roulette'. 
I have a step by step tutorial for these too.
~Tildy's Verdict~
I love my bunny rabbit buttons.
I love the pleats and the tabs on the side.
They are so comfortable and easy to run in and I especially love the ones with red silk in them to make them extra warm!
~My Verdict~
I love the Finch shorts.
I have lost count of how many pairs I have made.
All the tabs and buttons are so sweet and make them a special sew.
They are a little fiddly with a lot of pieces. Front and back leg cuffs, front and back waistbands BUT this also makes them an excellent #ninjacutting project as you can face with a contrasting fabric.
The Finch shorts are very large sizing, I understand that this is a design choice but you can safely size back.
The Peridot trousers I have only made three times but I am surprised I have not made them more often.
They are another slightly fiddly sew (which I rather like) and the cuff placket can be a bit confusing but for a neat, slim fitting, designer pant, you can't go wrong.

I have packed Tilly's away now as they were getting a wee bit tight.
She was not pleased.
These are another great pattern to #ninjacut as they cut nicely from the leftovers from adult patterns.

I was a little sad to see the Clever Charlotte website appears to be no more. The patterns are now being stocked by McCalls which is bittersweet.
I really liked those designers.

Thanks for reading...  xx N

Wednesday, March 13, 2019

Vintage Simplicity 7210 Jumpsuit for Zara

I really need to learn to photograph the sewing before I hand it over.
They are jolly hard to pin down for photos.
Last year Zara asked me to sew her a 70's style jumpsuit.
Image from Pinterest
She gave me a picture and set me free.
We found this pattern in a Bendigo Op-Shop.
Perfect, right?
Until I opened it and there were no instructions!
I had a slight freakout but figured it was similar enough to Tildy's overalls I should be able to wing it.
I only had the one size to work with so I knew there was going to be some serious fitting.
#1 Folded several inches from the shorten lines in the leg so we didn't lose any fabulous flare.
#2 Pinched out a lot of fabric (think inches) from the waist and tapered that up to the shoulders.
#3 We needed the bottom ease but scooped several inches from the front crotch seam.
#4 Shortened the sleeve length. 
#5 Omitted some pockets ONLY due to fabric shortage.
#6 Folded a little of the collar point out.
The fabric is a stretch cotton drill we picked up at Eliza Fabrics.
I purchased 3m @$3/m and we used it all, those legs were some fabric hogs.
We used silver press studs for the pockets and a silver buckle for the belt tie.
The zipper is a hardcore, metal teethed one. It is left over from when my mother was sewing apiarist overalls.
I, sure as Sherlock, wouldn't wear it next to my skin but this girl is tough.
Check out that booty!
~Zara's Verdict~
This jumpsuit is absolutely incredible.
I feel like an absolute rockstar when I wear it. It is so, so comfortable and yet so elegant. I simply throw it on, cinch it in around the waist, pop on some mascara and and lippy, then voila, I'm dressed and ready to go out.
The fabric is super stretchy and such a great colour, the fit of it is absolute perfection.
I wore this jumpsuit out for coffee and got an endless stream of compliments.
I have also worn this (jumpsuit) after a big night out and was able to sleep in it.
10 out of 10.
Five gold stars.
10 rotten tomatoes.
All of the above.
~My Verdict~
This was a FUN sew!
It used a lot of fabric but as it was not expensive as I was not  worried about the sew, if it didn't work, we could cut it up for the little girls.
I took my time fitting it on Zara, I did so many fittings but it was worth it.
It was a bulky sew, those legs are huge!
I think she looks grand. A very fun piece of clothing that would cost a bomb to buy and I doubt she could have got one to fit.
Not meaning to blow my own bags, just very happy with the result.
Thank you for reading.... xx N