Friday, April 18, 2014

Cappuccino Time

Now you know Liesl+Co released the Cappuccino dress and tunic, the replacement for the much sort after Portfolio?
Well, I sewed it up.
And it is lovely!
I did add an extra inch to the centre fold of the centre panel, as I do with my Portfolio dresses.
I took my upper bust measurement and then did a FBA, it was super easy and meant I could make the size10.
I slightly shaped the front downwards so it would work as a maternity top for me.
This gave me a lovely fit without lots of fabric gathering around my back.
The fabric is a stunning wool/modal I purchased from eBay, it is super stretchy and a bit of a cow to sew but the drape is unbelievable and it feels so nice on.
I did take some photos for a tutorial, not that I think you will need it, but here we go!
Stay-stitch the necklines from the shoulder to the front.
Don't skip this step, it will be helpful to stabilise the neck line whilst it is sewn.
  Interface one of the back neck facings and two of the four front neck facings.
Add any sizing labels now.
Pin two front necks to a back neck and do the seam with the facings, right sides together.
Sew and trim the seams and then press them open.
Matching the notches and seams, pin the neck facings to the neck pieces, right sides together.
Sew, reversing over the shoulders seams to re-enforce. 
Trim the seam and clip the curves.
Press the seam allowance to the facing (the interfaced side)
Edge stitch the seam to the facing.
Pin the neck band to the facing, right sides together, matching notches and shoulders seams.
Stitch together with a narrow seam.
Trim any uneven edges.
Overlap the bottom edges of the neck band and baste in place.
Baste and press well, let cool.
I added a good 2 inches to the centre front panel, this was plenty, anymore and it would have caused issues gathering to fit.
I also added some length  to the front and shaped it down to allow for my bump.
I can easily shorten it later.

Bump length!
Gather the top of the centre panel.
Gather the front section to fit the collar. Knot the thread ends to keep it tight.
You can see I was pushing it with my added width but this was a reasonably thick fabric.
Pin the bottom the neck band to the top of the centre panel, right sides together.

Sew, neaten and press the seam up, for now.

Sew the centre back seam, right sides together 
As I was sewing a knit I overlocked the seam and pressed it to one side. If I had used woven, I would have pressed the seam open.
Pin the shoulder seams, right sides together.
I used a thin strip of interfacing to stabilise the seam.
Sew, neaten and press the seam.
Pin the centre front panel to the side front panel up to the transferred notch.
Sew the other side but don't neaten yet!

Carefully clip into the notch.
Press the centre front seam down again.
Pin the neckband to the top neck starting at the notch.
Match the shoulder seams and notches.
Start pinning from here
Pinning lengthwise will help with the easing in.
Sew and check for tucks.

Neaten the raw edge starting at one hem edge and finishing up at the other.
Press well.
Remove any visible gathering stitches.
I had a wee gap here so I hand sewed the seams together, just to keep it nice and neat!
Press well!
Pin the sleeve to the bodice matching notches.
Sew, press and neaten the seam. Press again.
Pin the side seams matching the underarms.
Sew, press and neaten.
Stitch a turning guide at the hem.
Press up.
Turn and press the hem again.
As I am sewing a knit I can ease the front curve.
Pin and sew.
Prepare the sleeve cuffs.
Press one edge back by a cm and apply interfacing to the other side of the cuff.
Unfold the pressed edge and pin the ends of the cuff together 
Sew the seam and press it open 
A piece of dowel is very handy for this, thanks Liesl!
Re-fold and press the edge.
Pin the unfolded edge of the cuff right side to the sleeve wrong side matching seams.
Sew and press the seam towards the cuff.
Because of the bulky knit I graded rather then trimmed the seam allowance.
Fold the cuff over the seam and pin and top stitch in place.
Press well.
And you are done!
One Cappuccino.
With a terrific drape.
And a lovely shape.

 With room for my bump!

xx N