Friday, April 12, 2019

OOP Simplicity 6712 Dress for Beatrix

It's nearly time for holidays....
I am so excited!
So I have started holiday sewing.
Beatrix's list is made up of a dress, a coat, two pairs of dungarees, a tracksuit and some trousers.
I have wanted to sew this little dress f o r e v e r.
It is a late 1950's pattern, the pieces are pre-cut but have no written markings, just perforated notches and numbers.
I love the A-line style which is also very practical for play, not too full, not too foofy. 
The fabric is a linen/cotton from Spotlight, I picked it up for $4 from the remnant bin.
As the dress is for Autumn/Winter I dropped a poplin lining in it, sewing the main and lining separately, basting the right sides together and the attaching the facings over the top.
I hand sewed the facing edge to the lining taking care not to catch the main dress.
I also hand sewed the sleeve lining to the cuff, covering the raw edges.
The front yoke is stitched in separately, catching the ruffle.
It was huge and seemed way too big but once eased in place it fitted perfectly.
The self bow at the front is the cherry on top!
It reminds me a lot of the gorgeous O+S Playdate dress without the fitting over the head issues.
Be still my beating heart.
The size 4 is roomy enough, perhaps a smidgen too big?
Beatrix has always been quite solid but seems to be becoming more 'little girl string bean' than 'toddler chub'.
I may have to start sewing to her chest and adding length.
The advantage is that I can put a merino spencer under this and she may get two years wear!
(Maybe more)
Worn with her pretty, pink socks and shoes it is a feminine but not too fussy look.
Vintage, but the bold, rusty coloured background with the ivory polka dot is very modern.
~My Verdict~
I found this pattern in an Op-Shop a few years ago.
It was in Tildy's basket and then was swopped to Trixie's and I was determined not to miss out sewing it up, this time!
Its simple design belies the time it took to sew.
With the ruffles (finished with a tiny double hem) the yoke, the full lining and the hand sewing it was a solid sew.
But it was my sort of solid sew. I really enjoy this sort of garment construction.
Thank you for reading... xx N

Sunday, April 7, 2019

Style Arc Juliet shirt for Me

I was pretty despondent after my last sew
So I thought I would get back on the Style Arc pony.
I made a Style Arc Juliet 
I purchased (or received it as a freebie) a couple or years ago when I was about 10kg lighter so I wasn't %100 sure it would fit  (this is a size 10, my bust puts me in a size 12) but I wanted it a tighter fit and I figured one of the girls would wear it if it was too small.
I used a remnant of stretch, cotton poplin I picked up at Eliza Fabrics
The fabric is very stretchy so the fit is comfortable.
Very, very comfortable, like a tee shirt comfortable.
But this size, in a rigid woven, would be too tight.
*ETA I noticed on my worksheet that I sewed a larger side seam, 5/8ths compared to 3/8ths. That is some ease that I could have had.* 
I love it!
The right front tie is sewn in a twisty, origami type move and then you sew the front placket to the edge.
Even after careful pressing I had a wee gap where the edge of the tie was stitched.
And after sewing the placket in place I had to trim the front hem to match the left.
Pretty good considering you sew a piece that looks like a fidget spinner into a tie.
I love that it gives me the hint of a waist line at the front, which I do not have, and hides my mum-tum.
But by doing up the ties, I get the waist shape at the back.
~My Verdict~
I love it!
I would be keen to buy the size 12 and try that (size) in a rigid woven, or perhaps a FBA in this size as it is a little firmer in the bust than is perfect.
I love all the details, the 3/4 sleeve with the separate cuff (I always roll my sleeves anyway) the natty little stepped hem, the separate front placket and that gorgeous tie!
The right tie is part of the front, the left tie is a separate piece sewn at the side seam.
You do need to concentrate when cutting, the right front needs to be cut from the whole width of the cloth.
Pay attention to the seam allowances on each piece as they do vary.
The instructions were okay. I did get a little confused sewing the right tie but it is a confusing step.
But, goodness it is clever!
Thank you for reading... xx N

Monday, April 1, 2019

Style Arc Roxy for Me That Wasn't OR (Check your printing square people)

We all have sewing fails.
I had a printing fail.
I made myself a Style Arc Roxy
from the Style Arc website
Now I printed it like I always do, setting the scale to %100.
I didn't check the print square, to be honest I have checked since and couldn't  find the print square but...
from the Style Arc website
I didn't check and my pattern printed too large.
So I am owning this mistake.
And the other pattern I purchased and printed.
Le sigh.
That said, I am seriously impressed that it still sewed up beautifully 
Perfect collar and stand.
Neat placket and cuff.
Sleeve tabs.
Oversize pockets (mine were really oversized, snort)
Cute little pack flap.
I added side vents, because I like them.
I finished these with a narrow double hem.
Now I was seriously confused trying to sew the sleeve plackets so I took a few pictures to help me, next time.
This is the method I went with, I am not sure it is the Style Arc method.
First, I altered the pattern to remove the excess that would've been bulky once the placket is finished.
Press in the seam allowance on the edges including snipping into the seam and folding back the seam at the top of the upper placket.
Lay these on the transferred cutting line on the sleeve, right sides to right sides.
Sew up to the top of the smaller placket on both plackets.
You will stitch over the folded top of the smaller placket.
Press the stitching taking care not to flatten your fold lines.
Carefully snip up to the top of the smaller placket.
Press the seams towards the placket.
Using the pre-pressed fold lines, wrap the placket around so the seam is inclosed. Press again.
Pin and topstitch taking care that you catch the edge of the placket as you stitch.
Press the other placket.
Again, using the pre-pressed fold lines, wrap the large placket around the raw edge.
Topstitch the placket catching the underneath placket up to the length of the smaller placket.
I mark it with a pin.
Lay the larger placket over the smaller placket and press well.
Top stitch the loose placket in place.
One finished placket.
~My Verdict~
I love this shirt so much and I am pretty sad it doesn't fit.
I will be ordering it again, and will probably order a paper version so I don't have to deal with printing it.
The instructions are a bit brief but I have sewed a lot of shirts so I am okay with that.
The cut is gorgeous.
The shirt has gone off to a new home, I hope it fits and is enjoyed.
Thank you for reading...xx N

PS Style Arc have a 'freebie' pattern each month and this month it was a skirt I was after. So I purchased a new Roxy, paper pattern this time and got the Indigo maxi skirt free!