Saturday, September 15, 2018

Strathcona Henley by Thread Theory for Hugo

It was about time I revisited this pattern
I previously sewed this for Hugo in September, 2015.
I didn't get around to blogging it as I was not that impressed.
The shoulders were really wide and 'Star Trek-y', the fit was a bit baggy.
I used the heavy waffle knit for the packet and it was fat and bulky.
Hugo stuck it in his 'work drawer' and we didn't think too much more about it.

Moving on three years and Hugo had a Uni pub crawl to attend and he wanted to be neat but didn't want to wreck his nice clothes.
He pulled this top out and looking at it on, with a critical eye, I could see it just needed some sleeve cap removed.

I pinched out two inches from the shoulder and the sleeve cap tapering in back to nothing by the middle of the sleeve edge.

It worked well so I altered the pattern.
For my next version, I used some aubergine wool jersey from Eliza Fabrics.
From 2 m, ($3/m) I was able to cut this top and two O+S School Bus tee's , one for Tilly and one for Trixie.
As the fabric was very stretchy I really shaped the sides in, fitting it on Hugo before hemming.
I had learnt my lesson and used a woven for the placket. The last tiny pieces of cotton velvet, from The Drapery , leftover from Tilly's dungarees 
and Trixie's skirt
I also didn't interface and I love interfacing but I knew how thick this was going to end up.
I bound the neck edge with my labelling tape.
It looks good and adds stability.
I used silver press studs so I didn't have to do button holes and because they look good!
~Hugo's Verdict~
Coming into winter I realised I did not have any warm, casual tops. I remembered the Henley that Mum had made me and realised it was just what I was after.
It is casual but still smart, perfect for catching up with mates for a drink.
Made from wool they are also really warm. I can't wait until Mum makes me some more.
The aubergine colour goes well with the rest of my wardrobe.

~My Verdict~
I like this pattern but for Hugo, it still needs some work. I think I need to take a bit more from the shoulders if using a soft knit.
I have since made Hugo another, in a thick wool knit,  navy with a white fleck $3/m from Eliza Fabrics, with a wool/denim placket and that one fits, nice and snug.
I like the placket and the long, self fabric cuff is a nice RTW detail.
The neck band can be finished square or tapered (which I chose) I like to turn that down and top stitch it in place or it could be a little bulky.
Unless you are sewing for someone with huge shoulders I would advise sizing back. This is the size small (one size smaller available) and Jed could squeeze into before I altered it. The arms are also very long. I could have left the cuff off but I wanted it so I shortened the sleeve.
Ultimately though, with a little more removed from the sleeve cap, it will be another go to pattern for Hugo, something I can sew without fitting.
Thread Theory are a really nice pattern company.

Thank you for reading xx N

Friday, September 14, 2018

Jedediah Pants for Hugo

Hugo has several fabric requests on our last Melbourne trip.
One of those was several pairs of slim fitting trousers, stretchy fabric, navy or dark navy.
Jedediah pants  seemed like a good fit.
Always a good sew
Hugo has short legs like his dad #gnomesewing.
I had already shortened the pattern, at the shortening line, by a good whack.
As he wanted a 'skinny leg' I trimmed a cm off the side seams of the front leg panels. 
I also added a inch to the hem, continuing the taper, to create a 'tight ankle'.
The fabric is a cotton sateen, $6/m. I purchased 5 metres of French navy (pictured above) which is so dark I sewed it with black thread.
From that I was able to cut three pairs of Jedidiah's.
A pair of Finch shorts for Tildy (to be blogged)
And a pair of Peridot pants , also for Tildy (also to be blogged)
I did have to omit the back pockets but I checked with Hugo and he didn't mind.
I also purchased 5 metre of navy blue, stretch drill $6/m,from which I was just able to cut three pairs, with back pockets but no scraps.
I was pretty confused as both fabrics were the same width.
~Mystery solved, I was bemusing aloud and Lidia said there was a bit more on the roll that the owner threw in.~
~Hugo's Verdict~
I am currently nearing the end of my 2nd year of studying the three year undergraduate bachelor of Medical Science at Flinders University in Adelaide.
My hope is, after completing this degree, that I will be accepted into the Graduate entry Doctorate of Medicine (4 years) here at Flinders. If it all goes well, in 10 years time, I hope to be a rural GP.

I like to dress smartly when I am attending Uni. I do like looking presentable but at the same time I feel it helps me study, productively. It is like putting on my work gear.

The Jedediah trousers Mum has sewn me do just that and I feel really dapper. They will also come in handy when I, hopefully, get into Med where there is dress code particularly when students are on the wards.
~My Verdict~
Hugo is becoming trickier to sew for, he has a girlfriend now so he may want less of 'Mum's gear'.
He is not home as often so fittings are impossible.
I tend to stick to tried and true patterns that don't need adjustment.
Jedediah pants are my go to trouser patterns for Jed and Hugo.
The pattern goes together beautifully. The pocket facing constructs a strong and tidy pocket. (Just make sure you use a decent weight fabric for the bags, French seams will increase the strength too)

Thank you for reading xxx N

Loveralls by Petit a Petit for Lidia

When I take the trouble to draft a pattern I try and use it several times.
Why not?
It saves time, you can check the fit with an existing garment and it is usually a quicker sew.
So I made Liddy another two pairs of Loveralls by Petit a Petit
Liddy is 14 1/2 and fits the size 12 with length added to the leg.
Both Lids and Tildy still wear their original pairs

Although Tildy's have needed some work...
Tildy's shiny ones are still going strong.
This denim from Spotlight has patina-ed up nicely and I actually picked up a bit more when it was on clearance.
Back is February, for her birthday, I made Liddy a white, stretch cotton sateen pair.
The fabric was from Eliza Fabrics, around the $4/m price.
From 2 metres I cut these and a pair of Class Picnic shorts (to be blogged) for Tilly.
I added all the extra pockets and trims.
At Zara's suggestion I went with black plastic buttons rather than metal hardware.
This bad boys have seen some Napisan action so she was right!
(In my experience, metal buttons do not like soaking)

While the pattern was out I sewed her up some black ones.
#Ninjacut with some dungarees for Trixie
This fabric was another purchase from Eliza Fabris but this time from the $2 bin.
To be honest, it smelt rank, very inky and chemically pong-y.
After a few washes and air dries, it was fine though.
I left off the extra pockets and trims, even my ninja skillz were not up to that challenge, and used metal hardware.
I also had to use a cotton gingham for the facings.
Lidia rocks overalls.
She actually looks better in them then jeans as she is so slim.
I think dungarees are such a clever in between type garment.
Very practical but still very snappy.
Sewn in a stretch woven they are super comfortable too.
The white version have a summery feel.
Super cool.
Super gorgeous.
Thank you for reading xx N

Wednesday, September 12, 2018

Dungarees for Baby Bea Simplicity 6948 OOP

You know I lurve dungarees on children.
That look smart, keep their tummies warm and stop them coming apart in the middle.
Trixie got a lot of wear from this pair and I was so pleased and grateful when my lovely sewing friend Nana Deb sent me the size 3 pattern 
There is just something so cute about shoulder ruffles.
Beatrix calls them 'wings'.
Gathering a thicker fabric is a bit of a challenge so I use three rows of gathering thread (another tip from Deb) so I have a back up if one snaps.

They use quite a bit of fabric, due to the bias cut of the straps but I was able to #ninjacut them and a pair of Loveralls (to be blogged) for Lidia from 2m of some black cotton/poly denim-ish type fabric I purchased at Eliza Fabrics.
It smelt horrid when ironed, really inky but that has faded with a few washes.
After consulting my Instagram Brains Trust, I went with pink enamelled shell buttons but stitched them with red thread to match her shoes.
Unfortunately, I had a laundry mishap and the dungarees were accidentally put through on a works load (hot wash) and shrunk. They are now packed up to be sent to another little girl.
So, I had to make another pair.

This pretty, rose pink, pinwale cord was actually scraps from a skirt my mum made me when I was around ten years of age.
I really had to jiggle it and ended up facing the straps cotton poplin.
Which I interfaced to match the weight of the cord.
I chose black buttons to tone down the girly factor and stitched them with mustard thread.
Elsa adores them and has made me promise to give them to her to put away.
So they must be cute.
I am now desperately hunting a size four.

Thank you for reading... xx N