Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Cheating Chickadee Collar-Chickadee Blouse Tutorial Part 2

If you love the blouse but think the collar looks a bit fiddly.....
(I did a cheats version)

Pin the upper collar and under collar right sides together.
Press the seam well and trim seams and clip curves.
(I like to use pinking shears)
Turn the collar through and roll the seams under your fingers to get a good curve.
Press well!
Stay stitch the neck of the blouse starting at the centre back and sewing to the front.
Stay stitch the collar as well.
Pin the collar to one of the top bodice bodice pieces matching notches to shoulder seams.
There should be a seam allowance left on the edges of the front bodice.
Baste the collar in place,you may have to stretch the curves to fit,the previous stay stitching will keep the shape.
Stitch slowly,lifting the presser foot if tucks occur.
Attach the elastic to the front bodice piece as directed in the pattern  (the wider side).
Pin the second bodice piece to the first,right sides together,sandwiching the collar in between.
Sew together.
Stop frequently and lift your foot to turn to create a perfect curve.
Check for tiny tucks in the bodice and collar and check that the elastic loop is not caught in the neck seam.
When you are satisfied with the finish press well and trim the seam clipping curves.
Turn the bodice through.
Finger press and then iron the bodice well.
I like to edge stitch.
Following the pattern instructions overlap the bottom edge of the front upper bodice by 1/2'' and baste in place.
There you have it- a Cheating Chickadee Collar finish.
Compare the pair.....
In my opinion the green collar turned out just as well as the apricot in this particular fabric,which is a fairly soft cotton.
If I was to use a thicker cloth such as a heavy linen or wool suiting to make an over shirt style blouse I would definitely use Charlottes method as it reduces bulk beautifully and give a tailored collar.
When I make it again(and I definitely will be)as a light weight blouse I will use the ''Cheating Chickadee Collar''as it was quicker and I didn't have to fuss with keeping the neck seams pressed open during construction.

Its totally up to you-either way its just so sweet!

Monday, January 30, 2012

How you be,Chickadee? Blouse Tutorial Part 1

I had an uncle who used to say that......

Next on the cutting table for Liddy is the Chickadee blouse and skirt.
She choose some lovely shot cotton for the blouse and the last of a piece of Prince Charming for the skirt.

As Lidia is quite skinny I went with her chest measurement for size which put her into the 5. She is a short to average height for a seven year old so I lengthened the sleeves and hem to a 7.
I did not lengthen the blouse bodice pieces-just the hem!

Off we go!(I made two blouses at once so don't be confused,it won't be a multi-coloured wonder)

Following the instructions,interface the collar.
Sketch 1(on the pattern sheet)shows clearly which pieces to interface.
You want to interface the under collar.
Pop the collar pieces to one side.
Next transfer the box pleat markings to the lower font and back pieces.
I like to poke a hole in my pattern with a pin and then mark with tailors chalk.
It can also be helpful to snip 1/8 '' above the transferred marking to make matching easier.
Following the pattern and using its diagrams for reference match the markings to create the box pleats.
Stitch from your snip down to the markings.(Approximately 1'')
The stitched seam.
Pinch the box pleat up and then fold it against the blouse with an equal amount of pleat either side of the stitching.
It can be helpful to match the snipped 'bits'.
See the pattern instructions for more sketches.
Baste the box pleats in place.
Baste just inside the seam allowance.
Press the box pleats in place and put the pieces to one side.
Matching notches pin the shoulders of the front and back upper blouse pieces together making sure you create mirror versions.
You may find it helpful to mark the main & facing.
I know I did!
Press the seams open. 
Isn't the shot cotton pretty?
With right side together sew the centre back seam of both upper and under collar.
Again you should have mirror images.
Press the seams open.
Following the pattern instructions with right sides together,pin the upper collar to the facing upper blouse and the under collar to the main upper blouse.
Match the notches to the side seams.
Sew taking care.
Lift the presser foot often and turn gently to follow the neck curve.

Trim the seams and clip the curves.
Press the seam open on both the neck seams.
I found it helpful to press again from the right side.
Following the pattern stitch the button loop elastic to the front facing right side.
Pin the main and the facing upper blouse and collar pieces together.
Match the collar seams making sure seam are flat and even.

Take care when stitching to keep the extra fabric out of the way to avoid sewing it into the seam.
Press the seam well checking for tucks.
Trim the seam.
I like to use my 'Millie' pinking shears.
Turn the upper blouse through.
Finger press the seam,rolling the curves underneath your fingers until smooth and then press well.
Isn't it sweet?
Press the collar well.
I chose to edge stitch at this point.
Following the instructions overlap the bottom of the front placket by 1/2''.

Next-attaching the lower blouse and sleeves!

Thanks for stopping by!
x N