Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Cheating Chickadee Collar-Chickadee Blouse Tutorial Part 2

If you love the blouse but think the collar looks a bit fiddly.....
(I did a cheats version)

Pin the upper collar and under collar right sides together.
Press the seam well and trim seams and clip curves.
(I like to use pinking shears)
Turn the collar through and roll the seams under your fingers to get a good curve.
Press well!
Stay stitch the neck of the blouse starting at the centre back and sewing to the front.
Stay stitch the collar as well.
Pin the collar to one of the top bodice bodice pieces matching notches to shoulder seams.
There should be a seam allowance left on the edges of the front bodice.
Baste the collar in place,you may have to stretch the curves to fit,the previous stay stitching will keep the shape.
Stitch slowly,lifting the presser foot if tucks occur.
Attach the elastic to the front bodice piece as directed in the pattern  (the wider side).
Pin the second bodice piece to the first,right sides together,sandwiching the collar in between.
Sew together.
Stop frequently and lift your foot to turn to create a perfect curve.
Check for tiny tucks in the bodice and collar and check that the elastic loop is not caught in the neck seam.
When you are satisfied with the finish press well and trim the seam clipping curves.
Turn the bodice through.
Finger press and then iron the bodice well.
I like to edge stitch.
Following the pattern instructions overlap the bottom edge of the front upper bodice by 1/2'' and baste in place.
There you have it- a Cheating Chickadee Collar finish.
Compare the pair.....
In my opinion the green collar turned out just as well as the apricot in this particular fabric,which is a fairly soft cotton.
If I was to use a thicker cloth such as a heavy linen or wool suiting to make an over shirt style blouse I would definitely use Charlottes method as it reduces bulk beautifully and give a tailored collar.
When I make it again(and I definitely will be)as a light weight blouse I will use the ''Cheating Chickadee Collar''as it was quicker and I didn't have to fuss with keeping the neck seams pressed open during construction.

Its totally up to you-either way its just so sweet!


  1. Clever Nicole! Can't wait to see these finished - and the skirt too!

  2. Thank you Justine,neither can I!
    Sewing time is very limited this week.
    x N