Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Chickadee Collar-Chickadee Blouse Tutorial Part 3

Lets finish this gorgeous blouse,I want to try it on my girls!

Press the front&back upper bodice well,making sure the facing is even with the edges of the main.
I would suggest pre-neatening the next few seams BEFORE sewing together.
Following the pattern instructions pin the front lower blouse piece to the front upper bodice.
It is very important that the centre of the box pleat matches the upper bodice opening exactly.
The notches may or may not be spot on but the off-centre opening and and the centre of the box pleat MUST match.
The centre of the box pleat matching the off-centre opening.
Pin together and sew.
Repeat with the back blouse pieces this time making certain that the middle of the box pleat is dead centre.
Press the seam open,front and back.
I chose to topstitch along the bodice.
Alternatively you may....
Sew the pieces together.
Finish as one and press the seam down.
Don't worry if you need to trim a little after matching the pleat and opening. The seam allowance has ''wiggle room''.
This time I topstitched the lower edge.
On to the sleeves.
The apricot blouse I used Charlottes method,the green another way.
Pre-neaten the side seams and then sew together matching notches.
Press the seams open.
Taking shape!

Pre-neaten the side seams of the sleeves and consider pre-folding and pressing in the cuff hem.
Following the instructions gather the shoulders.
Sew the sleeve side seams matching notches.
To create a flat seam with out a sleeve press,press one seam back against the sleeve.
Flip the sleeve over and press the other seam against the sleeve.
When flattened out you have an acceptable flat seam.
Re-fold and press the sleeve hem back in place.
Set the sleeve into the bodice,matching notches with right sides together.
Pull up the gathering threads and ease the sleeve to fit the arm hole.
For the green version,match the notches and pull up the gathering threads to fit.
Ready to sew!
Sew in the sleeve.
I find stitching on the inside easier.
After sewing,check and fix any tucks.
Press the seam,clip into the curves and then neaten the edges.
Press the seam well and turn the blouse through to the right side.
Use a pin to remove any loose threads.

The second method.
Try stitching the sleeve in from the blouse body side rather then the gathered side. This is less likely to get tucks.
Check for tucks and remove gathering threads.
Again,clip the seam before neatening.
Press the seam well towards the sleeve.
Pin the side seams together talking care to match the under arm seam and notches.
Before neatening clip the underarm seam.

Neaten the seam and press towards the back of the bodice.
Re-fold and press the sleeve hem back in place.
Sew the hems in place.
This blouse is a cropped style. I really recommend trying it on your child before hemming.
Mark the button position and sew in place.
Pretty pretty pretty!
Sew on your complimentary label from Charlotte.
Lidia insisted it be on the outside!
Hey there Chickadee,
You look pretty darn cute!
Love the collar!
And that sweet sweet box pleat!

Now,the nitty gritty kitty!
Another special piece from Clever Charlotte. A beautiful garment to sew with an elegant finish.
I have given you a quicker method to construct it,and in a light cotton its fine. If you wish to make it in a wool or heavier linen I would strongly suggest you stick to Charlottes instructions. I think it would give a better result.
The blouse is a cropped style so if that bothers you add some length to the lower blouse pieces.
Lidia measures up a 5 so I drafted that lengthened to a 7(as she is a short to average 8 year old)and it is spot on!
If you would like some growth room-go up a size.

I will show you some proper photo's soon promise!
Thanks for reading.
x N


  1. LOVE these blouses! Beautiful work.

  2. Thank you Sarah,the girls love them too!
    x N

  3. Gorgeous! Perfect colours for them. Can't wait to try!

  4. What gorgeous blouses! I adore box pleats!

  5. Love them Nicole - the fabric, the collar, the pleats..... 

  6. I admit I tend to do sleeves the 'green' way more often than not -- I think it's a hold over from using sergers and knits and going fast. Or perhaps I just like the easy way out.

    Lovely blouses. They are nice in a solid but my, they *are* cropped! Thanks for the warning.

  7. Thanks Susanne,I wasn't sure about the apricot on my apricot hued haired child but I think she gets away with it?

    They are a nice alternative to gathers aren't they Millie?

    Thank you Justine,you are so sweet!

    I do love a classic finish Icicle but admit if I can save some time here and there....
    Its a sweet style but I think my girls may be a little long bodied? Its not hard to add a bit to the bottom.
    Thank you!

    x N

  8. I logged onto flickr today and clicked on exactly one commenters photo stream. It was yours. What luck, I've been introduced to so much just by that one click. Love the blog, love the photo stream. I just started sewing again after about two years. I guess I got side tracked! You do beautiful work, I will be glad to follow you :)


  9. Wow Jill thank you so much!
    Your kind comment could not have come at a better time as I was feeling very blog-bogged!
    I would be honoured to have you ''follow' me.
    Thank you again for your warm words and I look forward to sharing sewing adventures with you!

    x N

  10. These blouses are so beautiful and I love how each compliments your girl's colouring. Another great tutorial series - your 2 collar methods led to an 'aha' moment for me, and a much better understanding of sewing collars. Thanks for taking the time to post.

  11. Thank you Angela,that is so kind of you.
    They are the sweetest blouse!
    x N