Matching notches, pin the waistband sections together.
Take care with this step, check you are leaving the correct side open. The waistband and waistband facings should be reversed.
I unpicked this step so many times.
Sew a basting stitch along the lower edge of the waistband facing at just under the 4/8ths seam allowance.
Fold and press along the stitching line.
Check the waistbands are even and trim if necessary.
Matching side seams and notches, pin the right side of the outer waistband to the right side of the trousers waist.
Sew, press and trim the waistband.
Press the seam towards the waistband.
Pin the waistband facing to the waistband, matching seams.
Ignore the extra stitching on the waistband facing, my blooper!
Trim the seams.
Press the seam towards the waistband.
Flip and press again.
Chose a zipper-shorten if necessary.
Sew back and forth to secure the teeth and zigzag over the raw edge.
Open the zipper and press the teeth open as per instructions.
Use a medium heat and keep the iron moving.
Pin the right side of the zipper to the right side of the edge of the front leg.
Following the directions, fold over the top the of zipper to the inside.
I like to mark the zipper with tailors chalk to keep it even.
I quite like basting the zipper in place.
Pin, baste and sew the other zipper half in place.
Fold the zipper back and continue that up to the waistband, then press.
Repeat with the other side.
Zip up the zipper.
Fold the lining to the inside, with the pre-folded edge tucked underneath. Pin in place.
Keep pinning, matching the side seams.
Starting after the zipper, topstitch the waistband in place.
Press well.
It gives a lovely clean finish.
Charlotte gives you clear instructions on how to adjust the centre back seam for a perfect fit.
To allow some ease and enhance hand-me-downness I add elastic to the back waistband.
Carefully unpick the waistband facing side seam just enough to allow elastic to fit through the opening.
Thread the elastic with a nappy pin.
Catch the end of the elastic with a pin and then sew in place.
Poke the short edge of the elastic into the front waistband casing.
Hand sew the opening together.
Pull the elastic through with the pin.
Check the fit before securing the end of the elastic to the trousers.
Stitch the elastic in place.
I like to hand sew the facing to the zipper.
Stitch a turning guide along the hem of the trousers.
Fold and press.
This hem can be a bit thick but a few whacks from a clean hammer will sort 'em.
Fold the hem again by an inch, tucking the first fold to the inside.
Pin in place and sew.
After pressing, mark the button positions.
And sew the buttons in place!
One seriously snappy slim pair of pants!
Stunning silhouette.
And those gorgeous buttons.....
xx N
That last photo is to die for. I dearly hope these pants are "acceptable" when Audrey's big enough for them. I love their Hepburn-ness.
ReplyDeleteThank you!
DeleteThey may fit her now......the pattern starts at a size 2T. I would check the leg length and perhaps shorten before cutting. Tilly wears the smallest size.
xx N
Perfect Pants! Thanks for sharing a comprehensive how-to.
ReplyDeleteMy pleasure Cindy.
DeleteI can't wait to make the Jasper pants, I loved your version!
xx N
These are fabulous pants - and I love that top too Nicole - great outfit.
ReplyDeleteThank you Karen.
DeleteThey are such a great fit but still very comfy for play.
Liddy loves them.
xx N
These are gorgeous - thank you for the tute :-)
ReplyDeleteThank you Justine. They are not hard to make but I like pictures sometimes, just to remind me what to do.
Deletexx N
So lovely! Thanks for the step-by-step walk through this pattern, Nicole.
ReplyDeleteMy pleasure Catherine. I hope you try it!
ReplyDeletexx N
Legend!
ReplyDeleteThank you Gorgeous!
Deletexx N
These are seriously stylin' pants! I love the facing on the waistband and all of the perfect little finishing details. And the final outfit - stunning, as you say. :-)
ReplyDeleteThey are so nice Inder and very very Liddy.
ReplyDeleteShe has asked for a denim pair as she prefers these to jeans, less fabric I think.
xxx N
I love your blog :-)
ReplyDeleteYou are so kind!
ReplyDeletexx N