Friday, September 12, 2014

FBA All The Way!

If you sew ladies clothing and you read
You must have heard about the FBA (full bust adjustment) instructions that Liesl Gibson (of Oliver+S fame) has put together for her Liesl+Co pattern range.

This adjustment is perfect for me!
As a lady of petite build (under the padding) if I size up for my moo-boobies I am swamped 

screen shot from the Oliver+S site
I want to show you how easy it is to do!
Print your pattern and put it together.
I use the glue stick method.
As directed in the pattern instructions, mark the cutting lines.
Trace the pattern size required.
To find your size, measure your upper bust. All is explained in the instructions.
Swedish tracing paper is perfect for this exercise as you can cut and glue it together and still iron it!
 Trace the pattern piece as well as your cutting lines.
Carefully snip the horizontal traced line toward the vertical line.
Cut and spread the required width for your bust size.
Fill in the gap with offcuts of Swedish tracing paper.
Just glue it in place.
Fill in the gaps in the vertical cut as well.
Redraw the cutting line.
Following the pattern instructions, mark a cutting line on the corresponding front pattern piece.
Cut along the line and add a piece  the width as you added to the other panel.
The pieces will now match.
Re-draw the cutting lines and you have your new pattern pieces.
That easy!
As I used a very stretchy knit the non-interfaced side of the collar had some tucking issues.
So I flipped it and used the interfaced side as the right side.
I had to finish the facing in a less then Liesl method too.
I pinned it underneath and top stitched it in place.
The finished garment has such beautiful drape.

The wool/modal is deliciously light but oh so warm.
It falls so nicely.
It had enough room for my #6 baby belly.
And was comfortable and smart 4 days post baby.

*The fabric did 'grow' somewhat and I find this tunic looks better worn with leggings rather then jeans.
It is actually a bit big now but I plan to sew it again, same size, in a soft linen.
I think it will be less diaphanous*

Have you seen the new Liesl+Co?

xx N


  1. That you for sharing Nicole! I hope to get to sew this pattern this fall for myself so this will come in handy. (it does look gorgeous on you before and post baby!!)

    1. Thank you Sharon, it was so handy late pregnancy and for just after Trixie was born I don't mind that it doesn't fit now.
      I think you will be very pleased with it.
      xx N

  2. Looks lovely and perfect for maternity & post baby wear :) Good reminder, I really should bother with an FBA for myself one of these days.

  3. Thank you Jane. It does make a huge difference and was so easy thanks to your special paper!
    xx N

  4. Awesome post! I love it when I can see pictures of the process because I'm such a visual learner. I will scratch my head to pieces with just words ;-) Lovely shirt too. The drape is so pretty!

  5. Thank you Kristine, it was a long time coming, things are a wee bit frantic here :)
    xx N