Monday, September 19, 2016

A Nice White Shirt

Last year, I went on the search for the perfect button up shirt.
I found it in the Aime Comme Marie. Once I had my muslin, I was all set.
I made three, white linendenim and blue and white gingham.

I wore them continually.

Due to some minor health issues and just the passage of time I have lost some weight and they just didn't fit nicely anymore.

I borrowed a shirt from Hugo and found it a great fit so made myself one too.

It is a great shirt but a little bunchy around the hips.

I want a nicely fitted ladies  button up so I gave the Vado custom fit shirt a go.
The waist darts were none existent so I left them off.
(I purchased this pattern at the same time as my Vado jeans, I realised later that I had measured my waist incorrectly and that would explain the dart issue)
I sewed it up in a linen remnant I picked up in Melbourne, using MoP buttons what else?
The shirt has a centre back seam and no back yoke.
I prefer a double back yoke myself.
It also has a continuous lap sleeve placket.
I swopped that for a two piece placket, much smarter.
The bust darts are great, a really good fit but the shoulder is too dropped for my liking.
It feels a little constrictive. 
I added side vents...
Which nicely facilitate the part tuck.
Which my Twins inform me is very 'now'
~My Verdict~
To be honest, I am disappointed. Even allowing for my waist measurement discrepancy, the shoulders are too wide and if I narrow them, the sleeves will be too short.
The pattern wasn't cheap, $15 and I have to start again and buy another to alter it.
As it doesn't have a back yoke or nice sleeve plackets I think I may make another Aime Comme Marie muslin and start again.
I will wear this, it is a basic linen shirt and comfy enough if I am out and about but peeling potatoes in it is not so easy.

Oh well, onwards and upwards.

xx N

23 comments:

  1. I can tell how disappointed you are. It does look great on you even with the dropped shoulder. I love those high side vents. I am currently restocking my wardrobe with button-up shirts as the trio of Travelers I made two years ago are too small.

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  2. Thanks Masha, I just feel really boobie and lumpy in it. I like the bust dart, so I will use that again but the rest of the pattern is blergh (on me)

    Good luck with your shirt sewing, at least it is my favourite thing to sew.
    xx N

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  3. That is a bummer when it's meant to be a custom pattern, and you've made it so beautifully. By the time you narrow the shoulders then fiddle with the whole armhole/sleeve you've really drafted your own pattern, at least the trickiest part. Everything but the shoulder and upper arm looks great. Would you like it more if you bound the armholes and went sleeveless?
    And thanks for the Traveller tip Masha - I wouldn't have thought of sewing that just at a shirt length.
    Oh for a Liesl + Co tailored shirt hey Nicole.

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    1. Sleeveless is a great idea!
      The bust darts are perfect, no need to FBA, so at least I can use this pattern again.
      I fully acknowledge I am a strange shape, a bit like a jellybean, I just put a lot of hope into this pattern.
      Thank you!
      xx N

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  4. Have you considered the Cashermette Harrison shirt? Came out last week? I'm thinking of using it for a few nice button-ups

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    1. I will check that out, thank you for the heads up!
      xx N

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  5. It's such a shame when you feel disappointed after sewing it so nicely. However there is not much worse that feeling frumpy!Good luck on the next version

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    1. Thank you Aynsley.
      I like sewing shirts and I think the Twins will pinch it for a swimmer shirt but, yes, I have very little sewing time these days so I was cheesed off.
      I felt so frumpy, not nice when I have worked hard to lose the weight.

      I will just have to start again, grumble grumble, no magic pattern here.
      (Just joking, thank you)!
      xx N

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  6. Such beautiful sewing & fabric! A pity you don't love it too. Sleeveless is a good idea I think.

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    1. Thank you!
      I think sleeveless is such a good idea too.
      xx N

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  7. Ah, bummer! What beautiful fabric and buttons, too! It does not show off your trim shoulders, but that bust dart really is perfection.

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    1. Thanks Inder, you are kind.
      Yes, this one left a bit of a sour taste in my mouth. By the end of the day my shoulders were quite irritated by the shoulder seam pulling. It is was big and comfy, fine. Big and NOT comfy, not so good.
      Perfect bust dart though, you are right.
      xx N

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  9. Yes to sleeveless! Perfect idea to either save the shirt or the pattern (or both). I have to admit that my version of is pattern was pretty frumpy looking also (and I am a very different shape to yourself). I have the Harrison pattern (as was mentioned above) and I think this would a lovely shirt on you Nicole - fits beautifully at the bust and skims the tummy etc - plus it has your favourite tower placket in built. There is an add-on being realised sometime soon and will probably have a short sleeve etc. I think it could just be the ticket - and it will mean no fba! Oh and it's modelled with ginger jeans so, a win?;) I can completely sympathise with the small sewing time allowance, but the right pattern is just around the corner.

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  10. What a shame, Nicole. I can see what you mean about the dropped shoulder - I do like the look but it isn't what I would expect from their fitted blouse pattern. At first I thought you had sewn the semi-fitted variation. For what it's worth I think it looks good on you, but it's how you feel in it that counts.

    My go-to shirt patterns are Burda Silk Blouse 04/2011 #105 or Burda long sleeved blouse 04/2010 #114. They both have ample back room.

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    1. Thanks Siobhan.
      I don't mind the look either, its just a shame it is so 'grabby'. I put in a narrow shoulder adjustment and all the measurements fso I am not sure what happened. I guess I just have an odd shape.
      I will check out the Burda ones you have suggested, I like Burda a lot.
      xx N

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  11. It looks pretty but I appreciate your fit concerns. I think the back of it looks particularly nice - that centre seam does some nice shaping. But yeah the shoulders shouldn't drop like that on a custom-fit pattern, boo.

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    1. I really liked your Melliot shirt Jane but I was worried about the dropped shoulder on that too, how do you find it?
      The centre back seam is nice and I would have kept it, even if I added a back yoke but I just don't think this one works for me.
      Thank you!
      xx N

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  12. What a shame! We all have those meh projects. Perhaps the magic wardrobe for a while might help!

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    1. The magic wardrobe, love it!
      Elsa wore it and its looked great on her, maybe my shoulders are too rounded?
      I picked up Burda 6849 so I will FBA and muslin fit it.
      Thank you!
      xx N

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  13. I think the sleeveless option is the go. And do it with the 'pearly look ' ( necklace, earrings - all looks stunning ) ... Amy chance you could re use the sleeves ?

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  14. I love pearls and linen too, very South-East darling! ;)
    xx N

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