Monday, October 8, 2018

Aime Comme Marie Mister for Hugo

Just a few shirts for Beamish Boy...
The Aime Comme Marie Mister shirt
Which I have sewn at least 13 times.
I have the cutting out down pat, from 2 metres of Liberty I can cut a shirt for Hugo....
2+2 blouse for Trixie 
and a lovely, good sized, baby bib.

Little Things to Sew baby bib. 
I have my sewing time down to six hours flat.
Spotlight linen/cotton with lawn facings.
First I interface the cuffs, both sleeve plackets, the front placket, one side of the collar and one (or both if lawn) of the collar bands.
Christmas 2017
Then I sew the front plackets, the collar, baste the neck bands, the cuff edge, sew the back yokes together, sew the back darts and pre-iron and sew the first step of the sleeve plackets in place.
Liberty Capel
Back to the ironing board and press all the sewn edges, trimming the seam allowance from the top neck band after pressing the seam allowance along the basting line.
Liberty Wiltshire
Then I sew the cuff pieces, sew the second step of the sleeve plackets, sew one of the back yokes to the back piece and top stitch the collar after basting the raw edge together.
Spotlight Japanese lawn
Back to the ironing board...
Press all sewn seams and then sew the second yoke and the next step of the sleeves placket.
Liberty Capel
Iron again...
Press the back+yokes seam and top stitch, sew the sleeve pleats in place.
tosser
Sew the shirt fronts to the back with the twisty burrito method.
Spotlight Japanese lawn
Press and top stitch seams, press again and then stay-stitch neck band from the centre back to the front, taking care not to stretch the neck.
Pin and sew the sleeves to the body and the inside neck band to the neck.
Trim the seams, press the collar seam up and clip into the curve of the sleeve and then over lock.
Press the seam towards the sleeve, pin the collar to the neckband.
Top stitch the sleeve and sew the collar.
Pin the side seams, pin the top collar in place marking the sewing lines at the edge.
Sew both.
Trim the collar and turn pressing and pinning in place.
Trim the side seams and clip under arm curve.
Topstitch the collar and over lock the side seams.
Pin and sew the inside cuffs to the wrong side of the sleeves.
Press and pin a narrow, double hem, sew.
Press the hem, press the cuff sleeve into the cuff, flip and top stitch.
Another good press and then buttons and button holes.
Done!
If I have someone to mind Trixie I can sew a shirt in under six hours.
I absolutely love sewing this shirt. It fits Hugo perfectly, it is a joy to make. After coat sewing, shirt construction in my absolute passion.

Thank you for reading xx N

20 comments:

  1. Oh my goodness, so many beautiful shirts!!! These are amazing! Are you saying, six hours each? Your pile represents 42 hours of work?!! That's amazing.

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    1. Thank you Inder, you know boys, if you find something they like and wear you are happy to sew it!
      xx N

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  2. Love the fabrics - and I feel the same about shirts - so fun to sew! Just looking at your sleeve/cuff plackets - mine seem to face in the other direction? Is it a male/female thing, or are the rules variable? I did follow the book instructions recently so confident in what I was doing - but this pattern seems to be different?

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    1. Goodness, I am probably doing it incorrectly. To be fair, I had to translate the pattern and the line drawings are rather ambiguous
      I suppose there may be a female/male thing? How funny, I have made shirts for my self and not noticed, I guess 20 years of poor sleep can do that to you.
      Happy to chat to a fellow shirt, sewing lover!
      Thank you!
      xx N

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  3. Wow you are amazing! Love all of these gorgeous shirts and can’t believe how many of these you’ve made! I really enjoy shirt making too but at a much slower pace lol

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    1. I hear you!
      I have spent a few full days sewing (Liddy has minded Trixie) and goodness I was tired. I think 2-3 hours is my happiest length.
      Thank you!
      xx N

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  4. What a bunch of lovely shirts. They are all beautiful. Lucky Hugo to be dressed so lovely

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  5. Your son has a fantastic shirt collection!

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    1. Thank you so much.
      He is a good egg and is busy re=painting my house when he gets home so it is a fair swop.
      xx N

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  6. I love all the shirts! Would you adopt me? LOL I truly am impressed. Do you have a secret source for Liberty fabrics? They are very expensive here in the US. I don't know where you are, but thought maybe you had found a reasonable source. All your kids are very lucky to have you as their personal seamstress, even if they don't realize it now. My mother made most of my clothes, and I was luckier than I ever knew at the time.

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    1. Thank you!
      I buy a little, locally when it goes on sale (still $50/m). This shirt is a good cut and if you take care you can get it from 1.7m. I buy a lot on eBay from a seller called 'fellabird'. I have a search set up on eBay to notify me. I did get caught once with some 'Liberty' that felt very 'cottonish' rather then silky lawn so there are definitely fake fabrics. That said, that shirt continues to wash and iron beautifully.

      Spotlight (our Joannes) has a nice range of Japanese lawn which is around $20m but regularly goes on sale for $12.

      I always check out the remnant bin, shirts 5 and 7 were both sewn for under $5 plus if you get a remnant cheap, you can cut the cuffs and collars from that and buy a small piece, off the roll, for full price.

      The little pieces were from a mixed bag my mum gave me for Christmas a few years back.
      The BEST present ever.

      Thank you for your lovely comments, they are not always that grateful but i hope one day they look back fondly.
      xx N

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    2. Nicole does the Australian stores (Melbourne and maybe Sydney?) of "The Fabric Store" stock liberty? The NZ ones do and their list price for tana lawn is $NZD38 per meter and they often have 10-20% off as well. It's the only time I ever buy it. Such a pleasure to sew isn't it!

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    3. Oh my goodness Aynsley, they do!
      Thank you so much. I have sent the link to Hugo too.
      xx N

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    4. Following on from Aynsley. The Fabric Store often has a few liberty prints at $18 per metre. So keep an eye out on their 'in store specials' page on the website. I bought some just this week and it's a print I love.

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    5. I will book mark the page and keep an eye out, thank you!
      I *may* have signed up for their email...
      xx N

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  7. Have you ever ordered from www.shaukat.co.uk? They have most (all?) of the substrates Liberty manufactures, to include silks and wool. They have raised their prices a little, but are still cheaper when purchasing a large order.

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