Wednesday, February 20, 2013

A Puppet Show for Kindy? Part One

Now Tilly is really meant to wear a polo top and shorts for Kindy.
But Mrs D did say that it was optional. 
And Tilly really wanted a dress.
Besides,how could anyone resist this?
Its the oliver+s Puppet Show dress and it is so cute!
I have made this dress twice before.
Once in silk and it was a dream to sew.
Then again in cotton gingham but that time it gave me some problems.
I asked around in the o+s forums but no one could shed light on my short comings so I decided it was time to try again.
I have strayed slightly from the primrose path and my technique is definitely not 'heirloom' sewing but it came up so beautifully I thought I would share.
I shan't mind if you don't like my method.
Here you go Joe!
PS I will let you know when I am heading 'off road'
Mark the darts on the front and back bodice.
 Sew the darts and press to the outside seam.
If you pull the point threads through and knot them on the wrong side it will give a better finish then reversing at the end of the seam.
Top stitch the darts as per instructions.
Take your time with this step,perhaps mark the stitching lines with a chalk pen ?
Following the pattern,interface all the pieces that require it.
Check the pattern pieces for the exact position!
Sew the collar.
Trim the seam allowance,turn and finger press the curve rolling it under your fingers to get a good curve. Once you are satisfied,press well.
For sheer fabrics, trim with normal scissors not pinking shears.
Dampening the collar can help with rolling the seam.
Edge stitch the collar and baste the neck opening.
Make sure your notches are visible they are crucial to a good finish with this garment.
 Sew the bodice and bodice lining pieces together at the shoulder seams. Press the seam open.
Off Road!
At this point I neaten the bottom edge of the bodice lining.
Pin the collar to the bodice matching notches.
The collar should overlap in the middle.

Sew the collar in place.
Press well.
Pin the back seam of the bodice and the bodice lining together.
The back facing is narrower,it will seem uneven,it is meant to,don't worry Mrs Murray!
Sew the seam and press it open.
Press a 1/2' fold along the edge of the back skirt panels.
Next we will sew the back skirt to the back bodice.
These are the pieces we will be sewing together.
Matching notches pin the back bodice to the back skirt.
Pin in the crease of the fold but not the fold itself.
You may need to ease this seam a little just make sure the notches match!
I take a wee detour here.
See how I have stitched from the crease but the fold is still free.
Clip the curves.
Press the seam up towards the bodice.
Unpick the 1/2 '' seam allowance that is preventing the seam pressing up to the bodice.
Now that seam will sit nicely when the placket is folded back.
Give this seam a good press.
Back on the main road!
Matching the notches pin the bodice to the bodice lining,right sides together with collar sandwiched in between.
If you find this confusing pin the shoulders seams first.
Check that collar is sitting nicely at the centre front.
I had to restitch mine a wee bit.
That is what we want!
Sew the neckline.
I like to reverse stitch over any seams that are going to be trimmed,just to re-inforce the stitching.
Trim the neck,the better you trim the better finish you will get.
I often find my top button and button hole can be a bit floppy so I like to add a  extra wee bit of interfacing at that position.
For a nice turn,clip the points off at the beginning at end of the seam,it will reduce bulk.
Turn the bodice through and press well.
Spend some time here rolling the collar+neck seam to get a perfect seam.
Then press well.
Pull the bodice gently apart and stay stitch the seam allowance to the bodice lining not the bodice!
This will hold the collar nicely in place.
I didn't get a photo of this step,if you need further clarification just let me know!
Pin the bodice only(not the bodice lining)to the front skirt,matching notches.

Clip the curves.
Press the seam towards the bodice.
Heading off road again....
Press the bodice really really well.
And then press it again!
Pin the bodice to the bodice lining from the bodice side.
Topstitch the front and back bodice seams.
The lining will be caught perfectly underneath.
Baste the armholes together and trim the seams.
Sew the side seams,neaten and press to the back.
Tildy's home,time for a try on!
Its looking pretty good!
See you later alligator!
xx N

Next up Part Two.