Saturday, October 7, 2017

Lekala #4612 One-Piecer

The very best thing about Lekala patterns is the custom fit.
Liddy has a chum who is very tall and strongly built.
Her mum struggles to buy her pretty, age appropriate clothes and Lidia really, really wanted me to sew for her.
Lidia chose Lekala #4612 I okayed it with her friends mother, got her measurements, we purchased it and Liddy printed it and glued it together for me.
One-Piecer featured on the Witchery website, now sold out.
(Another nice feature of Lekala is the pattern suggestion competition I am pretty sure the style is exactly the same as this one I pinned from Witchery)
I guess because I didn't print the pattern or read through the instructions before I started I really underestimated this sew.
Zara gave Lidia the fabric from her own stash (a pretty, light weight satin charmeuse she purchased to have a kimono made in. It was from Spotlight, around the $20/m)
It was very difficult to handle, very slinky and pins didn't want to go through it. My washer weights were good but it shifted as I cut it, no matter how careful I was.
It would not take a crease, no matter how hard I tried. Even my Tilly-made clapper could not hold this stuff down.

I really wasn't concentrating when I cut this project out. I didn't realise the garment was fully lined. 
I am trying to minimise my stash so I immediately cut some shorts from the scraps, only to realise I  need that fabric for self lining...
Lidia choose some pink stretch satin from the remnants I had picked up from my Melbourne shop ($7 for 2.2m cut)

Again, not a good choice, it was heavier then the main and falls a bit too heavily.
As it has waist ties I had to piece the lining to make these main fabric, both sides.
I sewed the arm and the front edges together first and
I under-stitched all the edges to help it sit nicely.
Then I turned it again and sewed the side seams, lining and main, as one.
The shorts instructions did not work for me at all and I ended up with a sort of 'infinity bloomer'.
I unpicked the crotch seam and pulled the lining legs through and under stitched. 
I then pinned and resewed the crotch seam.
The front bodice is too wide for the shorts so I had to gather that to fit (another lass had the same problem so it is the pattern)
The instructions call for you to press the waist seam up and make a casing from that but as the rest of the garment is so nicely finished I wanted to do better.
I made a casing from the satin, sewed it to the waist seam and pressed that up.

Rather then using wide elastic, which can be uncomfortable, I made three casings and used soft, non-curl elastic.
The flounce edges are meant to be sewn with a narrow, double hem but it was not going to happen.
After nearly an hour of trying and burnt fingers I gave up and (after practicing on some scraps) I went with a narrow zigzag on the edge, using a silver grey thread.

The buttons are a deep blue shank button that Liddy chose.

~My Verdict~
This project nearly finished me.
I have some nude pink silk to make Lidia one and now I know what I am in for I think it will be a more enjoyable sew.

Now that it is done, I can concede it is kind of cute but it was 10 hours of sewing hell I am glad to see the back of.

I really hope the recipient likes it and I have learnt a big lesson in moderating gift choices. Sewing is not a cheap gift and often it is seen as one.

I worked out, with my wages at $20/hour and notions/fabric, this is nearly a $250 gift.
I have had two phone calls in the last week, inquiring about sewing and this has confirmed it is not for me. I couldn't charge someone that much but how could I not if that is what it takes?

Simple gift sewing from now on.

~Lidia's Verdict~
This sew was very important to me because my friend's 13th birthday was coming up and I really wanted to get her something special and Mummy sure provided me with the perfect gift.
It is just perfect for my friend and she has always admired the clothes Mummy has sewn me. It's just perfect Mummy, thank you.

Thanks for reading xx N

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32 comments:

  1. Your sewing is so skillful, but once again, the sweetness of your children is what comes shining through.

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    1. Thank you very much Elle. What a lovely thing to say.
      xx N

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  2. This is a beautiful outfit, beautifully sewn.

    I also get requests to sew for other people. I rarely say yes. The time involved is just too great for most people to understand and appreciate. I will bake for others. Cakes, muffins, even jam sometimes. Food is usually appreciated or can be easily passed on to another recipient.

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    1. I agree.
      I happily bake for out teachers but limit the sewing to a few that really appreciate it.
      What I find ironic is that often people, my older daughters included, are far more critical of something I have made then shop bought. My girls will happily wear 'dodgy' Cotton On tees but will be a bit funny about my stuff.
      Thank you for you kind comment.
      xx N

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  3. Lydia's comment is exactly what keeps me making things for my children. They understand the effort time and money involved and love everything I do for them. That's my payment. It's hard when someone asked you to do something for them, they've pretty much stopped now as I have explained the costs, including my time. That said, just started two quilts for a couple of lovely little girls and cost time etc isn't even a consideration. Sometimes it's just doing something for someone you love. Which I'm sure is you're main payment your children are so obviously appreciative of all you do for them. Wendy

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    1. Liddy is an absolute sweetheart.

      Quilters are just amazing. Tildy has a quilt a kindly lady sewed up for her, from the goodness of her heart. We were blown away and Matilda was honoured someone thought of her https://www.flickr.com/photos/motherof5/30011866662/in/dateposted/
      xx N

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  4. I can fully understand your thoughts. I too have a very tall daughter and she doesn't fit many RTW clothes that are age appropriate and I sew almost all she has. However, I sew for her from my heart and the time costs especially is easy to justify. Sewing for others however is an all together different story. My time is very scarce so I guard it ferociously. Most other people don't realise the time cost as the cost of RTW is so biased due to cheap overseas wages. The play suit looks lovely!

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  5. Thank you Aynsley.
    My time is so, so precious and I have an extensive sewing queue waiting. I had to say no as I was getting a lot of requests for mending that would 'Only take five minutes' and people would act like it was a small thing. Grr, sorry, didn't mean to grumble.
    xx N

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  6. I'm with you on all fronts N. my upbringing meant that until recently it was not okay to say 'no'. I generally resented the time spent doing it - and recipients were as critical as if they had paid for the item. I now laugh and say 'join the queue ... my husband is at the front '. It is staggering how undervalued the skill of sewing is - or is it just 'womens work' in general that is undervalued? These days I'm doIng a lot of interstate commuting. Sewing time is scarce -
    But the family mending is ( for the firsttime ever ) completely up to date as I use some of the commute time to unpick etc. I'm okay with doing our mending- but not other people's. I've learnt to say 'oh look I don't have time but there's a repair shop down the road - I think she charges about $30 ( or whatever ) to do that '. Works a treat. I also give that answer for professional advice I am asked by strangers to give for free - their rationale 'it's only time '. My rationale? I volunteer for those who need it ... not for those who can pay for it ...

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    1. I totally understand. Thank you for your lovely comment.
      xx N

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  7. Also sorry to rant. It's a really sore point with me ...

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  8. so so pretty - great match of pattern to fabric, even if the fabric didn't want to behave! So much work with that full lining too! Good Mummy.

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    1. Looking back at it now, tee her, it is very pretty and the pops of yellow make it very 'this season'.
      Thank you!
      xx N

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  9. It is really lovely and I'm sure will be very much appreciated! But totally understand your perspective on sewing for others. You have a big family to clothe already! Just Say No!

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    1. Thank you!
      I had another call for a job, 'Very easy, only take you five minutes' I pleaded school holidays but you are right. I need to say 'No'
      xx N

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  10. What a wonderful gift!! I'm a mostly a quilter with occasional clothes sewing and was asked if I wanted to put quilts in someone's new shop. However, they would be on consignment, and the thought of hundreds of people pawing the quilts with no guarantee of a sale, after hours and hours of work - no thanks!

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    1. I have often thought of a little shop Andrea. Maybe sell coffee and cake and sew, just stock the odd item but you are right. When you see people tug at stuff in shops and not hang it back...
      Luckily I have plenty of children to sew for.
      Thank you!
      xx N
      PS Quilts take so much more work too!

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  11. That does sound like such a frustrating sew! It looks lovely in the end, though. People really do think sewing is a cheap gift. I made my brother two Hawaiian shirts this summer and he started telling me I should sell them. When I told him how much I would have to charge he was shocked. Even with inexpensive fabric, my labor would put it over $100. Plus I find it stressful to see for others.

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    1. Thank you Masha, it was a very frustrating sew. I did cut some City Gym shorts out of the scraps but I don't know that I can face it!

      People do think sewing is cheap, it really bugs me, cooking too. I often make macadamia nut biscuits as gifts and they can cost $20, just for the ingredients.

      I don't enjoy sewing for others as much as others.

      PS I did love those shirts you made.

      xx N

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  12. The playsuit is so gorgeous. I love the main fabric. Custom made clothing is expensive and people do appreciate that... when they see it in a special shop, but I don't believe the built up skills you need to 'whip' something up are appreciated by members not in your family. The family sees the time and effort. I love you have your children's comments included.

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    1. Thank you!
      I agree. There are a few family friends I ma happy to sew for but I do need to keep it simple.
      Thank you for your lovely compliments.
      xx N

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  13. It turned out so lovely and the fabric is beautiful! I rarely sew for others besides my family. Non-sewists just don't understand the time and cost that goes into sewing. I recently agreed to sew a dress for a co-worker's daughter and I hope I'm not taking on too much! She did agree to pay me for it (and is providing the fabric), but I never know what is reasonable to charge!

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  14. I hate having to set the rate Elizabeth.
    I was asked to sew some school dresses using the Oliver+S Jumprope dress pattern. I quoted $120, including the fabric, the girl asked if that was for 4 (she wanted 4) I said 'No, one' she got quite stroppy and lectured me that i would get more work if I charged less. I didn't actually want the job...

    xx N

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  15. I say no to people too. And when people suggest I start selling things I say "I just want to clothe my family." And I don't do a third of what you do. I am always so impressed!
    I have two twin boys (almost 6) and another boy on the way. Sometimes I wish I sewed more for them but they grow so fast. They love when I do though. They do see the love and time put it.
    I also knit and will knit little baby sweaters or hats for ones that I know will appreciate it. But as far as kids sweaters and adult sweaters...that's just for me and mine.

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  16. It is really nice to see I am not the only one who struggles with this.
    I think knitting is even more precious, that takes so long to do.

    As you boys get older, shirts are lovely to sew and nice ones are very expensive so they are a satisfying project.

    Thank you for reading.
    xx N

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  17. I tell Ella not to tell people that I sew. It puts you in an awkward position when you tell them how much things actually cost if you factor in your time and materials. I had one of the mums of one of Ellas class mates ring me up and said that she had heard that I liked to sew. When I said that I did she, she said "would you like to put up my daughters school uniforms for me as you like sewing" Ah no. I said I would teach her how to hem a uniform, but I would not do it for her, even if she was paying me. Hate mending and I find sewing when I have to do it a chore

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  18. Exactly Jenn!
    Tildy has volunteered me to sew onesies for her class productions, they will be on stage for 5 minutes!!!!
    I think I will hit eBay and donate some costumes to the school.
    xx n

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  19. I totally agree on the time and expense of sewing gifts (or sewing in general). My family's friends would want me to make things, I even had a sales person at Wal-mart ask if I would sew for her daughter because prices at the store were too high...people simply have no idea how much time and expense goes into sewing. Knowing that about sewing, I try to be careful what I ask other people to do for me... My stepdaughter, though, has always been very conscientious of what she asks for - at one point her friend asked me to embroider a shirt (which, in point of fact, I would have done). My stepdaughter very politely said to her "You know, those projects are a lot of work for her." She was only about 10 at the time and I was so impressed that she noticed! What a lovely gift you've made =)

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    1. You are kidding? I am thinking Walmart is a bet like BestforLess here?
      Little dresses for under $10?
      Some people are clueless...
      Your stepdaughter sounds like a very lovely young lady.
      xx N

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