Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Seems Fitting

Let me be completely honest.
I was travelling blind with these trousers.
I am no fitting guru or altering expert but we were getting a bit stuck.
Zara and Elsa are a really unusual  shape and things were just not fitting.
Pattern image from the Oliver+S site
Both girls really liked the look of the Field Trip cargo pants. As Hugo (16 nearly 17)is still wearing the Sketchbook shorts (with a fly zipper) I thought there may be enough ease.
I used Swedish tracing paper for this task and it was perfect. You can cut and glue the pieces together and press with an iron but is still reasonably sturdy.
After placing the pieces against Zara's body I decided she needed an extra 3 inches across her backside. So I cut the pattern there.
I saved the offcuts of paper and glued them behind to give me the width.
I then sort of eyeballed  where the bottom part should go and glued that in place.
Using the existing leg line I re-drew the side seam. I just used some scraps of paper to piece it.
Here you can see the altered piece next to to original.
I had to add considerable height.
Due to the extra width I had to add to the front piece the knee section was far too narrow.
I drafted a new knee piece with the Swedish tracing paper and cut it (avoiding the notches)
I tried to get the lower knee 'true' and set in a 'V' and pieced and trimmed the lower end to match the original pattern as best I could.
The pocket bag also needed lengthening to fit my raised waist line.
I created the dart by fitting the pattern on her.
I then drew it in place.
The front leg needed a few 'goes' to get it right.
That was the beauty of the Swedish tracing paper. Just cut it and glue a bit more in place!
Once I was happy with the inner leg fit I pleated the front to remove the excess fabric.
I thought about darts but both girls were keen for pleats.
I fitted the side seams and trimmed back to a 1/2 inch allowance.
The best sewing tip I can give you is to sew the inside leg first and then fit and sew the side seams.
However, that does make attaching the Bellows pocket a b**ch.
Notice there is only one?
These were actually made for Zara so they are a wee bit firm on Elsa.
But she got up first!
Perfect trousers for school.
With a sneaky touch of pretty.

 xx N
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18 comments:

  1. SharonApril 30, 2014 at 5:28 AM

    So much work and it shows! The fit could not be an better. : )

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  2. sarahApril 30, 2014 at 6:50 AM

    First off, you amaze me! I love how you just jump right in. Second, I need some swedish tracing paper. I love how you were able to pin it to their body. Fantastic post, thanks for taking so many pictures of the process. It helps me visualize it all better.

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    Replies
    1. motherof5May 12, 2014 at 1:02 PM

      Thank you Sarah.
      Seriously, this paper is amazing. I purchased it after reading Sarvi's excellent post on the O+S blog.
      xx N

      Delete
  3. brittneyApril 30, 2014 at 4:39 PM

    'But she got up first' hahaha! Way to go Z;) You say you aren't an expert, but you get an amazing fit every time... I'm gonna go ahead and say you are:)

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    Replies
    1. motherof5May 12, 2014 at 1:04 PM

      Yup, she who gets up first gets the best uniform!
      Thank you Brittney.
      xx N

      Delete
  4. AnonymousApril 30, 2014 at 9:48 PM

    Gorgeous job, Nicole. Why not complete the fitting with the Swedish tracing paper and then use the construction order per the pattern? Then the side pocket would be easier.

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    Replies
    1. motherof5April 30, 2014 at 10:00 PM

      Every type of fabric behaves differently so there may be a subtle difference in the finished product. The Twins clothing requires multiple fittings, i can use the same size pattern but Zara has a smaller waist and fuller bottom. Elsa is a tiny bit taller.
      By sewing the inside seam first I can get the perfect fit.

      I could baste the jeans and unpick them to use the method of construction but that would be extra work and the girls were happy with one pocket.

      Thank you Sandi.

      Delete
  5. AnonymousApril 30, 2014 at 9:49 PM

    Now if you could just pop over and alter some patterns to fit me!

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  6. KarynMay 1, 2014 at 1:06 PM

    Love the touch of pretty in the hem.

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    Replies
    1. motherof5May 12, 2014 at 12:51 PM

      Thank you Karyn, I think EVERYTHING is better with a touch of Liberty.
      xx N

      Delete
  7. CindyMay 1, 2014 at 2:14 PM

    This is why I think sewing rocks...you can take a pattern, ease and adjust as needed and get a great fit! The pants look fab!

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    1. motherof5May 12, 2014 at 12:52 PM

      You are so right Cindy.
      I have no idea what I would do with the Twins (or even Hugo) if I could not sew for them.
      Track suits?
      Thank you.
      xx N

      Delete
  8. Kristin at SunnySewing.comMay 5, 2014 at 1:53 PM

    Great job adjusting that pattern to make it fit her. It looks great (even on her sister) and that style of pants is awesome!

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    Replies
    1. motherof5May 12, 2014 at 12:54 PM

      Thank you Kristin.

      I need to get the second pair made, there are a few squabbles over who wears them.....
      xx N

      Delete
  9. Inder-ificMay 6, 2014 at 4:49 PM

    These turned out great, and I am, again, so impressed by your fitting and alteration skills. But you know, the Field Trip pants are so great - Liesl should totally do a grown up woman/man version! Or at least a teenager version ...

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  10. motherof5May 12, 2014 at 12:56 PM

    I just loved the ones you made Joe. I wish I had had this pattern for Hugo.
    Thank you, I just sort of 'jumped in' but they worked, so pleased.
    xx N

    ReplyDelete

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