I was travelling blind with these trousers.
I am no fitting guru or altering expert but we were getting a bit stuck.
Zara and Elsa are a really unusual shape and things were just not fitting.
|Pattern image from the Oliver+S site|
I used Swedish tracing paper for this task and it was perfect. You can cut and glue the pieces together and press with an iron but is still reasonably sturdy.
After placing the pieces against Zara's body I decided she needed an extra 3 inches across her backside. So I cut the pattern there.
I saved the offcuts of paper and glued them behind to give me the width.
I then sort of eyeballed where the bottom part should go and glued that in place.
Using the existing leg line I re-drew the side seam. I just used some scraps of paper to piece it.
Here you can see the altered piece next to to original.
I had to add considerable height.
Due to the extra width I had to add to the front piece the knee section was far too narrow.
I drafted a new knee piece with the Swedish tracing paper and cut it (avoiding the notches)
I tried to get the lower knee 'true' and set in a 'V' and pieced and trimmed the lower end to match the original pattern as best I could.
The pocket bag also needed lengthening to fit my raised waist line.
I created the dart by fitting the pattern on her.
I then drew it in place.
The front leg needed a few 'goes' to get it right.
That was the beauty of the Swedish tracing paper. Just cut it and glue a bit more in place!
Once I was happy with the inner leg fit I pleated the front to remove the excess fabric.
I thought about darts but both girls were keen for pleats.
I fitted the side seams and trimmed back to a 1/2 inch allowance.
The best sewing tip I can give you is to sew the inside leg first and then fit and sew the side seams.
However, that does make attaching the Bellows pocket a b**ch.
Notice there is only one?
These were actually made for Zara so they are a wee bit firm on Elsa.
But she got up first!
Perfect trousers for school.
With a sneaky touch of pretty.