Showing posts with label Coat sewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Coat sewing. Show all posts

Saturday, October 5, 2019

Lekala Two-Sided Cape #5723

A few years back, Jed purchased me an utterly gorgeous piece of cashmere from Eliza's Fabric, in Sunshine, Melbourne.
From memory, it was around the $30/m, which is quite pricey for Eliza's, and the owner pretty much insisted I take the last 3 metres.

I had great plans of making myself a peacoat, just had to get around to it....
So, I washed it and stored it away in a drawer. Unfortunately I didn't use mothballs and it was nibbled along the fold lines.
Not Happy Jan!

Back to present day, Lidia had two formal evening events and needed something to wear over her evening dresses.
The Twins will also be attending several balls a year.
We decided a cape would be the most practical option after fitting Liddy's yellow lace dress (to be blogged) which was quite firm about the arms.
We found this cape, Lekala #5723 which is designed to be sewn in leather but I couldn't see any reason why it wouldn't work for us.
Image from Pinterest
Lidia perused Pinterest a found a cape she liked, and I realised it was a similar colour to my fabric.
As the pattern was quite short I wondered if I could jiggle it around the nibbles.
I did!
I really wish I had added the epaulettes.
I think the faux tortoiseshell buttons stop it from looking stuffy and I think this garment could transition to daywear as well.
I used my favourite lining choice, stretch satin, in the prettiest of rose gold.
From the remnant bin at Eliza's Fabrics.
The main garment is sewn, setting in the collar in a rather fiddly but awfully rewarding fashion, and then the lining is sewn to the edge of the front facing.
I then bagged the lining, going in through an opening in the side seam which I then sewed up by hand.
The cape is s e r i o u s l y  w i d e.
It's Trixie wide!
But the combination of the decadent cashmere and lush satin means it drapes beautifully.
It looks gorgeous on and makes me a little less sad that I didn't care for it properly, in storage.

~Lidia's Verdict~
This cape was a perfect throw-over for my formal dress.  It had a silky lining so it didn’t itch my bare shoulders or arms. 
The colour is a really nice and a good neutral colour so it works with what ever I wear under it. 
The cape is a really nice piece that I can dress up with a fancy dress or dress down with denim  jeans and a white shirt. It’s a really lovely addition to my wardrobe and I am excited to wear it again. It is also a good size that fits a little like the Travelling Sisterhood Pants, they seem to fit everyone. This cape is a size that comfortably fits Mum, Zara, Elsa and me.

It’s really lovely to wear and I think it looks really nice on.
 When I wear it I feel like a proper young lady. 
Thank you Mum x.
~My Verdict~
I thoroughly enjoyed this sew. Making coats and jackets is my thang. 
I love constructing anything with wool or wool blends and I appreciate the fact it is a garment that will get a lot of wear (usually)
The instructions were okay for this, I have made this style of collar before, where you partially sew it and the attach it to the main and lining so it is hollow and open inside (this does give you the opportunity to 'roll' the garment and get a lovely 'sit')
I chose to top stitch the seams to make it look less formal and I like the lovely 'fat' edging it results in.
A very happy sew.
And it even fits me!

Thank you for reading xx N


Thursday, July 25, 2019

Lekala 'Poncho with Cape' #4480 for Lidia

I fell in love with Lekala #4480, a 'Poncho with Cape', as soon as it was released.
I then found a picture on Pinterest...
Image from Pinterest
That completely made up my mind.
The cover art showed a very urban, hip image and Liddy liked it!
I had some wool/cashmere cloth earmarked to make Hugo an anorak  but I stored it poorly and the silver fish had nibbled at the folds.
With some careful jiggling I was able to cut the vest and cape pieces around the small holes.
The cloth was from Elizas Fabric, which is sadly closing down, $12/m. It is so nice and I was pleased to pick up another 3 metres so I can still make Hugo's coat.
Although the main body is lined the pattern leaves the cape unlined.
We tried that but Liddy commented the fabric was gripping her t-shirt so we decided to line it.
 The lining consists of a khaki, stretch satin remnant and a scrap of heavy Duchess satin for the back panel.
A happy accident that I think looks rather snappy as well as giving some stability to the vest back.
I bagged the lining.
The instructions direct you to finish the arm holes in two passes (not very informative BUT I found this tutorial by Liesl Gibson very helpful.
The custom fit pattern was perfect.
Although a little 'stiff' when first sewn, the cape section soon 'fluttered' beautifully.
The side tabs allowed good adjustment.
(I used these sliders from eBay)
Lidia wore it often on our recent holiday to Victoria.
She said it was very warm.
She has several people comment on it when we were out shopping.
(I love it when that happens, don't you)?
I really like it styled with jeans and boots.
Photo by Trixie
But is looked equally smart over her pink Burda blouse
We found a gorgeous wide leather belt (similar to the inspiration photo) and with her black Loveralls it was a snappier look.
Did you notice the beanie?
One of our favourite holiday pastimes is to trawl Op-Shops.
I always check out the knitted goodies.
Liddy found this fabulous pure wool beanie, brand new, for $2.
It is the perfect match.
~My Verdict~
This was a pattern I really wanted to sew and I am so pleased Lidia obliged me.
The fabric was borderline too thick, the seams needed careful grading (and Lekala have narrow seam allowances so you are not working with much).
Catching the cape between the main vest and the neck facing was heavy going but I used clover clips and turned the wheel by hand (basting first, just to keep things together)
Topstitching the zipper edge was completely bananas, no matter how carefully I graded, there is a lot of bulk there but it looks okay.
I was very lucky and my cape points lined up, first sew of the zipper!
*Winner*
The lining is sewn to the facing edge after the main/cape/facing is stitched which makes things a little easier.
I chose to top stitch my lining seams and edge stitch the facing to lining seams.
I do wish I had put a secret pocket on the inside, I will, if I sew it again.
Now while I adore capes, I will concur they can make moving your arms an issue.
(Tilly tends to run around like Superman with one button done up at the neck)
Liddy assures me there is no problem with movement here.
~Lidia's Verdict~
This cape is so warm!
 I was concerned that with my arms out I could become a bit chilly, but when we went away I wasn't cold at all. 
I really like it paired with my black long-sleeved top and my distressed leather, heeled boots. 
The belt that mum found works perfectly. It's just like the inspiration photo and I love wearing it to make the outfit look a little more classy.  The zip also matches the buckles on the side which I love. 
In conclusion, a lovely Lekala sew.
I thoroughly recommend it but do suggest you consider lining the cape section.
I picked up some lighter, wool flannel, at Elizas Fabrics in the $2 bin and I would love to make another version similar to the inspiration picture, with the collar and shoulder epaulettes, possibly the welt pockets too.

Just need a victim... um ahh, a recipient....

Thank you for reading xx N

Wednesday, April 24, 2019

OOP McCalls 2581 Winter coat for Beatrix

So, Pinterest, my dirty little time waster...
So many beautiful images.
Case in point.
Image from Pinterest.
I LOVE this look.
The colour, the styling, love it!
I had to make it for Trixie.
I purchased this pattern in a mixed bundle from eBay.
What caught my eye is the raglan sleeve. I love that detail and it also makes cutting economical, which is good, because....
~Back story~
I purchased this heavy wool coating from Eliza Fabric, last year. 
I was looking for this colour and so excited to find it.
There was 2 m left on the roll so I took the lot ($12/m)
(I figured a coat for Trixie and a vest for Hugo) #ninjacutting
As per usual I pre-washed my fabric before putting it away.
I pre-wash, with Softly, in the machine on a wool cycle.
I have never had an issue.
Until this fabric, it shrunk, a lot.
I could have cried. My 2 m ended up not quite 1.5 m. 
It was also super thick, like felted thick but not distorted in anyway.
So I figured I would give it a go.
Cutting was a nightmare, it was so thick that my tissue paper pattern was tearing as I tried to cut!
Sewing was a little tricky.
I made my stitch length smaller (2.5) as it was gaping a  little.
I also hand tacked the inside seams in place to avoid bulk under the arm.
Sewing the facing the coat, catching the collar, was I N S A N E
I used clover clips and turned the wheel to move the needle.
I didn't put my foot on the pedal once.
I broke clover clips on this bad boy!
But totally worth it.
So, so cute!
The cape is fully removable and attaches at the shoulders with sew in poppers.
These are hidden under the collar when not in use.
Trixie badly wanted pink buttons and this lovely, lush, quality bobble fringe remnant from Spotlight.
As she agreed to the green-brown wool for a coat I was happy to oblige.
I lined it with stretch satin.
The last of the copper coloured stretch satin I purchased at Eliza Fabrics #ninjacutting.
We chose a pink, double sided satin ribbon to fasten it.
There is something a little bit special about this sew.
It looks just as lovely without the cape.
The enamelled shell buttons are a pretty touch.
I edge-stitched to try and tame the thick fabric.
The pockets are lined with the same lining and I cut it slightly smaller so it pulled the edges of the pocket under, neatly.
I love this copper coloured satin, I am sad to see it all used up.
It is a wee bit big.
Nothing a quick fold of the sleeves won't fix.
It is so warm and snuggly.
And just so cute!
But plenty of movement for play.
~Trixie's Verdict~
It's pretty, really pretty. I like the poms poms.
It's so soft.
It will keep the snow off (we don't get snow, NMK) ;)
~My Verdict~
I was so disappointed when I spoilt this fabric but I am very pleased with the result.
The cloth is so thick, almost too thick.
I trimmed the facing back to remove some bulk.
(The pattern called for you to just neatly fold the excess under the facing, not trim, but it was so fat and unsightly. I pressed it well, while folded in and then unfolded it and trimmed it back, 1 cm above the fold lines. This fabric was not going to fray)
The pattern also directs you to sew the collar and facings to the coat and then the lining to the edge of he facing.
This is a lot easier to do, especially working with such a thick cloth.
I followed the instructions, hand sewing the lining to the main rather than bagging it. It took a little longer but the thought of manipulating the thick cloth scared me a little so I was happy to do as directed. 
The size 4 is nice and roomy, hopefully Trixie will get two years wear from it.
Thank you for reading... xx N