Getting all Continental part 2

Lets sew up this puppy!

Stay stitch the neck line of the front and back blouse pieces. Use a big stitch and sew this line at 3/8ths.
Start at the shoulder seam and sew towards the middle. Flip and do the other side neck edge the same.
Please don't skip this step, it helps keep the bias of the neck stable when you attach the neck binding.

Whilst your machine is set to a big stitch, gather between the notches on the centre lower back panel and sew  the easing stitches on the shoulders, again, between the notches.

Press the sleeve hem in place now.

Transfer the dart markings. I find the simplest way is to mark the apex of the dart and draw the line in place to the notched dart opening. I then lay my pattern back over the top to check it is accurate.

Fold the fabric right side together and pin the dart making sure the pin goes through the chalk line on both sides.

Sew the darts. Don't reverse at the apex of the dart, pull the threads through and knot them. This will prevent a 'bubble' at the end of the dart.
I then top stitched my dart a la Puppet Show.

Gather the lower back panel between the notches to fit the back panel.
Knot the end of the gathering threads and then you can safely ease the threads.

Pin in place and sew.

Sew and neaten the raw edge and press the seam towards the upper back piece.

Press well, topstitch and remove the visible basting threads.

Matching notches, pin the side back panels to the centre back piece.
You may have to stretch this to fit, match the notches and you will be fine!

Sew, press, neaten.
Then press the seam towards the centre back panel and topstitch.

Matching notches, sew the shoulder seams.
I find a scrap of iron of interfacing is great here to help stabilise the seam.

Sew, press, neaten.
Press the seam towards the front piece and top stitch.

Press the neck band in half lengthways and the press the edges into the middle to make a long bias strip.
Let this cool.

Matching notches, sew the ends together and press open.

Re-fold and press the bias neck band.

Matching notches, pin the right side of the neck band to the wrong side of the blouse.
Pin the centre front, back and shoulder seams first and then ease the neck band in place.
You may have to stretch the band and/or the neck to get it to fit, that is okay, its bias for a reason.

Sew in place with a 3/8ths seam allowance.
Trim the seam a bees' whisker taking care not to snip the bias.

Fold and pin the centre back in place.

And the the centre front and shoulder seams.

Fold, press and pin the rest of the neck band in place.

Top stitch in place and then give the neck a good press with steamy iron.
Let it cool.

Matching notches pin the sleeve in place, use the gathering stitches to ease it.
Sew, press and neaten the seam.

Press the seam towards the sleeve and topstitch.
Press again with a good steamy iron to give it a good shape.
Let it cool.

Pin and sew the side seams.
Press and then clip into the underarm seams to reduce bulk.

Neaten the seam.

Finish the top by hemming it.

And you are done Baby-baby!
How does it fit?

Very well thank you very much.

No pulling at my shoulders.
But it still has delicate shaping.

So comfy but I still feel very snappy.

Room to breath.

But not sloppy.

I think I have a new favourite top.

xx N