Saturday, September 15, 2018

Strathcona Henley by Thread Theory for Hugo

It was about time I revisited this pattern
I previously sewed this for Hugo in September, 2015.
I didn't get around to blogging it as I was not that impressed.
The shoulders were really wide and 'Star Trek-y', the fit was a bit baggy.
I used the heavy waffle knit for the packet and it was fat and bulky.
Hugo stuck it in his 'work drawer' and we didn't think too much more about it.

Moving on three years and Hugo had a Uni pub crawl to attend and he wanted to be neat but didn't want to wreck his nice clothes.
He pulled this top out and looking at it on, with a critical eye, I could see it just needed some sleeve cap removed.

I pinched out two inches from the shoulder and the sleeve cap tapering in back to nothing by the middle of the sleeve edge.

It worked well so I altered the pattern.
For my next version, I used some aubergine wool jersey from Eliza Fabrics.
From 2 m, ($3/m) I was able to cut this top and two O+S School Bus tee's , one for Tilly and one for Trixie.
As the fabric was very stretchy I really shaped the sides in, fitting it on Hugo before hemming.
I had learnt my lesson and used a woven for the placket. The last tiny pieces of cotton velvet, from The Drapery , leftover from Tilly's dungarees 
and Trixie's skirt
I also didn't interface and I love interfacing but I knew how thick this was going to end up.
I bound the neck edge with my labelling tape.
It looks good and adds stability.
I used silver press studs so I didn't have to do button holes and because they look good!
~Hugo's Verdict~
Coming into winter I realised I did not have any warm, casual tops. I remembered the Henley that Mum had made me and realised it was just what I was after.
It is casual but still smart, perfect for catching up with mates for a drink.
Made from wool they are also really warm. I can't wait until Mum makes me some more.
The aubergine colour goes well with the rest of my wardrobe.

~My Verdict~
I like this pattern but for Hugo, it still needs some work. I think I need to take a bit more from the shoulders if using a soft knit.
I have since made Hugo another, in a thick wool knit,  navy with a white fleck $3/m from Eliza Fabrics, with a wool/denim placket and that one fits, nice and snug.
I like the placket and the long, self fabric cuff is a nice RTW detail.
The neck band can be finished square or tapered (which I chose) I like to turn that down and top stitch it in place or it could be a little bulky.
Unless you are sewing for someone with huge shoulders I would advise sizing back. This is the size small (one size smaller available) and Jed could squeeze into before I altered it. The arms are also very long. I could have left the cuff off but I wanted it so I shortened the sleeve.
Ultimately though, with a little more removed from the sleeve cap, it will be another go to pattern for Hugo, something I can sew without fitting.
Thread Theory are a really nice pattern company.

Thank you for reading xx N

10 comments:

  1. Great job! I've made one of these and agree it runs a bit big. I notice my husband hoicking it forward every now and then, so I suspect I need to do a forward shoulder adjustment... But the Metro The fits him fine so I'd rather just merge the Strathcona placket with the Metro sloper. Or sew for me... :)

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    1. The Metro IS a nice fit, good point.
      I think the pattern for is a bit oversize and meant to be but my vain Laddie likes it fitted.
      Thank you!
      xx N

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  2. I have sewn it a few times for my husband and it fits pretty perfectly. However in RTW shirts he has to size up due to quite broad shoulders and long arms. Rena

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    Replies
    1. Hugo is not tall or bulk so it would explain the fit.
      Thank you for reading and your comment.
      xx N

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  3. I like the Thread Theory patterns too. I made the Strathcona for my son a few years ago. The small fit him for width but I had to add 12cm to the body and sleeve length! At 14 he was almost 6ft tall.

    Recently made up the Finlayson jumper for my husband. He has long arms and torso too, but broader shoulders. The XL fit perfectly. Yet to try the trousers.

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    Replies
    1. Hugo would be dead jealous, he would love to be 6ft tall!
      I have made the Finlayson jumper too, for Hugo but I can't remember all the particulars. I know he liked it and wore it a lot before he lost it at footy practice.
      Might need to pull that one out again.
      Thank you for reading!
      xx N

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  4. It's nice to see some lovely mens patterns especially those that are suitable for tall teenagers. My lad is tall and skinny so I shall remember that this pattern runs on the larger size. It looks to be such a great basics pattern.

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    1. If your lad is tall Thread Theory is perfect for you!
      The trousers are good and long too.
      Thank you
      xx N

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  5. I am a huge fan of your sewing and thank you for continuing to blog your makes. I find it really informative and inspirational. I love all the beautiful things you make your family. I was even showing off your skills to my husband! Thank you

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    Replies
    1. Wow, what a lovely, lovely comment to read during a really hard week!
      Thank you, you have given me such a boost.
      Please keep reading, you have made my day.
      xx N

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