Friday, October 28, 2016

Shirt Sewing Burda 6849


Those that read me, may remember my last effort
But I am tickled pink this time.
Burda 6849.
Sewn in stretch cotton poplin with MoP buttons.
Speaking of buttons, I will never need to buy any ever again thanks to Katy Bella Bugs  , she sent me a life times supply.
I muslined this shirt and put a lot of effort into the muslin.
I warn you, it is a bit of a novel. 
My measurements put me in the size 16 but I knew, just looking at the back yoke, that was way too big.
I have very narrow shoulders and I am quite high waisted. This shirt seems very wide and very low waisted.
However, I need every bit of the 16 for my hips and belly.
I decided to try something. I cut the shoulders to a size 6 (the size that looked to fit me best placing it on my body).
I cut the rest of the shirt to the size 16.
 After placing the body pieces against me I raised the waist by 17cm and then re-positioned the darts and retraced the hem.
Swedish tracing paper is ideal for this sort of adjustment.
I also added a bust dart.
Please excuse the terrible photo.
I was really pleased with the result.
I used the size 16 sleeve, as I have quite bulky forearms but  trimmed a good inch from the sleeve cap and shaped out the sides. In hindsight, I should have checked the sleeve length and cuff.
They are a bit long and a bit full but I can easily adjust the next one by trimming the sleeve and adding a few pleats.
The pattern has a simple one pieced placket but I swopped that out for a two piece one. 
I used the pattern pieces from my Aime Comme Marie Madame shirt.
Personally, I prefer a more 70's style collar then the squarish modern day look. I  made my collar a bit pointier at the front and narrower at the back.
Apart from the sleeves, I am very pleased with this shirt.
And I will probably roll the sleeves up most of the time, anyway.
Button up shirts are a big part of my wardrobe. I am beyond thrilled to have sorted this pattern and have white linen and blue and white gingham ready to go for two more.

Making a muslin, a proper muslin with your seams on the outside so you can adjust to fit can be time consuming but it is so worth it.
I have no idea if I fiddled with this pattern 'correctly' but it worked and it is so comfortable.
It fits perfectly into my capsule wardrobe.

I am currently muslin-ing Burda 6769 to make a black coated denim skirt.
So far so good!

Thanks for reading.
xx N
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22 comments:

  1. Gorgeous shirt. Particularly nice hem. Well done you.

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    1. Thank you.
      It is a narrow , double hem. The slight stretch facilitates a good curve.
      xx N

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  2. It looks great! I find a shirt with shaping is so much more flattering than a non shaped one.

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    1. Thank you, definitely on me as I am quite think waisted with a pop tummy, this sort of fits and skims and is so comfortable.
      xx N

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  3. That looks so much better than the last one!

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  4. Lovely fit thorugh shoulders and body! I reckon you could lose some length at the hem, too, particularly with a shorter sleeve. I'm in awe of the rate you turn out beautifully constructed button-up shirts.

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    1. Ahh, you are so right!
      I thought it was a bit off but I couldn't put my finger on it...
      Thank you!
      xx N

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  5. Nice! I've was working a bit on fitting for button ups for some more long sleeved ones, but now it's warm here!

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    1. Still bloody cold here!
      What I would five to have your help fitting.
      xx N

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  6. Oh to have your tiny waist! It looks so good on you and I really like the look of the dark denim version on the pattern sleeve.

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  7. Thank you Katy, is it even my waist? It is so high it is sort of 'under my boobs'...
    It is a nice shirt though, I am pretty pleased.
    xx N

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  8. This looks fabulous !

    I have been frequenting your blog for awhile now and enjoy your projects!

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  9. Wow! I hope my daughter's and my blouses come out this good!

    What size buttons did you use on your blouse? The Burda Style patterns don't list notions like other patterns do.

    Thanks!

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  10. Thank you Susan, it is a very nicely drafted shirt pattern,
    I used small, mother of pear, shirting buttons. About 9mm?
    Personal choice. I make my button holes vertical except for the bust, which I do horizontal for ease.
    xx N

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  11. Lovely job, Nicole. I'm quite interested to see that you cut the smaller shoulder and increased out to the larger size at the bottom of the armscye - this is how I often FBA my knits, but I never imagined it would actually work on a woven. I may have to try it.

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    1. Honestly Masha, it was a bit of a risk but it worked. I have one cut in a rigid denim so we will see how that goes.
      Thank you!
      xx N

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