Aime Comme Madame Shirt, Deer+Doe Chataigne Shorts for Lidia

 Don't you just love it when a vision becomes reality?

Mine was to use this gorgeous selvage on the fabric Jerry purchased in a ruffled edge (not for him though)

Backstory...

Jerry is terribly fond of a pink gingham shirt. He has had three over our marriage and has worn all of them to bits, literally.

Our Merino sheep stud, Ramsgate, has a hot pink shirt as a uniform such is his fondness for the colour.

On a recent Adelaide trip he came home with some windowpane check for a new shirt.

'I got five metres' he announced 'Is that enough'?

It was plenty and so much so that I cut a blouse for Lidia at the same time.

Thus the ruffles!

I have been on a shirt sewing spree for Matilda and I am in the zone. I suggested the selvage ruffle to her but she was not that keen however Lidia loved the sound of it.

I went with the tried and true Aime Comme Madame

I omitted the collar and added a ruffle the to neck band. I also folded and stitched the front placket to the outside rather than the inside, sewing the ruffle along the edge.

I cut the sleeve cuff and placket on the bias (interfacing both pieces so they didn't stretch out of shape) and added a ruffle along the edge of the cuff.

I cut the outer yoke on the bias as a design feature but cut the inside yoke true to grain to stabilise it. More ruffles!

Finished with self cover buttons made by Jerry!

The shaped hem looks just as snappy untucked. I finished it with a narrow double hem.

Lids loves shorts, she wears them with tights in Winter so she rocks them all year 'round. I suggested a charcoal linen pair but Liddy fancied matching colour with colour and pulled some aqua blue linen the same as  the selvage.

Deer+Doe Chataigne shorts are just so elegant and fun.

From the website... Make a wardrobe of shorts with Chataigne. With your choice of high or mid rise, the waist is defined by a panelled yoke ending in a point in the front, with pleats for shaping and curved hip pockets in the front, and flap pockets in the back. The shorts are secured with an invisible zipper in the side seam.

• Version A has a mid rise with cuffed hem.
• Version B has a high rise with scalloped hem.

The nubbly vintage linen was a challenging sew and my front 'V' is not perfect but c'est la vie.

The pattern calls for an invisible zipper but I find my girls are a bit hard on those so I just plump for a regular one.

It was fun to sew some colour!

No modelled photos yet but I promise to share them as soon as I do!

Thank you so much for reading .. xx Nicole 

StyleArc shirt and Butterick B6296 shorts for Lidia

Lids and Tilly  love  the Butterick pj bottoms as shorts. Really, they are a rather fancy pj bottom with the back yoke, the pockets, the separate waistband and the cuffs so I can see why.

Lidia has a pair I made in a gorgeous tartan fabric that my lovely friend, Ana-Sofia sent me from Portugal. She wears these as shorts all the time and requested another 'outdoor' pair.

The very popular pj/shorts in question!

The fabric she chose is an elegant Italian cotton shirting I purchased from the chetWynd fashion house before it closed down, I made Ben a Birthday Shirt and some rather snazzy pjs for a dear Med Student mentor, Taylor.

It is lovely to sew, very crisp and a lovely hand.

I piped all the seams with white piping and interfaced to cuffs and waistband front for a sleek look.

By smoothing the front waistband most of the gathers of the elastic are at the back for a neater finish.

I had a small piece of the most deliciously silky-but-firm  cotton shirting that was begging to be a Archie shirt

I like the Archie shirt, StyleArc make an elegant pattern but they do assume a degree of sewing knowledge . I sew Lekala regularly so don't really find them a problem. I previously made Zara two linen versions (black and taupe) and I believe she still wears them teaching.

The Archie has a two piece collar, lined back yoke, fold up cuffs and a gorgeous over sized chest pocket.

The shirt is cropped to sit a the waist, too cropped for me but rather fabulous for the young and fit of tummy.

A fresh and cute outfit.

For my gorgeous girl.

I love sewing for Lidia, she happily wears whatever I make.

I am so lucky, it's like sewing for life size Barbie dolls.

When I sew garments I like to put a wee watch of the fabric with some spare buttons in a tiny ziplock bag. I always add a pre-threaded needle (as I was given a box of thousands) so if they lose a button they have thread and needle to hand!

Thank you for reading..xxx Nicole 

Kristina Sewista Vest Celia and Butterick 6296 Shorts for Matilda

Matilda came to me with a request. A cute little denim vest/top that is going viral (evidently)

Image from Pinterest.

The vest in question is made in denim (or chambray) shaped but not overly fitted, copper top stitching and tortoise shell look buttons.

Honestly, I think it looks a bit poorly fitted and sloppy but what would I know!

Tilly has tried a few on in the shops but the problem is, if they fit her in the waist and shoulders they are too tight in the bust.

Sooooo, the challenge was to make a fitted (but not too fitted) denim vest that did up over her bust (but not too firmly) and showed off her waist (but had some loose fabric at the back)

I did point out that I could avoid those fitting issues and have it fit nicely but that was not what was required.

Okay (insert eye roll)
 

When my girls want a very modern garment I usually head to Etsy. Some of the patterns on there are definitely a case of caveat emptor (anyone remember the disastrous Milkmaid dress of 2023)

However, Kristina Sewista , had the goods so I decided to give it a go.

I knew this top was going to take some serious muslin making. I cut the first one according to Tilly's upper bust and waist and it was really good if I unpicked the bust section. I wondered about attempting an FBA however, after eyeballing it I wondered if I just added some depth to the cup whether it would give the ease we wanted.

Here you can see the fullness and height I added to my new side front panel.

I added much less to the front panel, just enough to keep the edge smooth.

I really, really, really wanted to tweak this muslin some more but Tilly was happy with it.

(Are you hearing my inner monologue here...)

I wanted to fiddle with the bust shaping so badly but this 'aint my first rodeo', if a teen is happy, let it be.

Matilda chose some soft denim/chambray rather than a heavier denim as she wanted a top that would be cooler to wear in hot weather. It's from a roll of chambray Jerry purchased for me 15 odd years ago.

Although the viral top didn't have welt pockets, Matilda rather fancied them. I was happy to oblige.

She was so happy and that made me happy.

Tilly asked if I could make her some dress shorts from the Lisette pj pattern. Both Tilly and Lids love those shorts so much.

I used a remnant of linen from my stash and interfaced the cuffs and front of the waistband to make them more sturdy.

The shorts have an elastic waist but by smoothing the fabric out and pressing well you can have most of the gathering to the side and back.

I sewed lots of topstitching and French-seamed the pocket bags for a sleek finish.

If make them again I will use a nude fabric for the pocket bags for an invisible finish.

Brown faux tortoiseshell buttons from a bulk lot I purchased from a tailor in Melbourne.

I finished the sleeves with self binding.

Copper top stitching.

See that natty little back yoke section, at the neckline? Well, that was a whoopsy. When I was cutting the original pattern I traced the lining instead of the main and... you guessed it, I didn't realise until I was fitting it. I nearly tossed it and cut another when Tilly suggested piecing it and I  think it works.

So satisfying to make a garment that a teen wants to wear.

To (nearly) nail the fit (as much as one is allowed)

This why we sew.

To make nice fitting clothes for our loved ones.

Tilly wore it the very next day, on a shopping trip with Lidia.

Thank you for reading ... xx Nicole