Aime Comme Monsieur for Ben

 

My favourite mens shirt pattern.

Aime Comme Monsieur (While linking this pattern I noticed that the sizing has increased, previously it was only S/M/L and this is a medium. It now goes up to XXL so I may be able to make one for Jerry)

This is my 23rd version of this pattern. I have so many other shirt patterns but I always seem to pull this one out.

Ben is turning 21 and I wanted to make him something really special 

I have a roll of this crisp, Italian cotton shirting and I thought the emerald would be perfect with Ben's green eyes.

This fabric is lush to sew.

I went with green top stitching. Luckily I had the perfect shade.

I chose small, white Riverstone buttons, sturdy but elegant.

 I really like the high, shaped back yoke.

And the neat shaping at the waist.

Silly boy!

I think I should sew him some shorts next ...

In conclusion, my go to shirt for the fellows, lovely sew, good results plenty of bang for your sewing buck.

He still models like a penguin!

When I sew a gift, I like to include a wee zip lock bag with a fabric swatch and a few buttons, just in case.

Thank you for reading... xx Nicole 

Lisette B6296 pjs for Matilda

 I will admit it, I love sewing pyjamas!  Usually you are sewing with a cotton (often flannelette) which isn't slippery and the fussy details like piping are easy to attach. They also get worn to death so lot of wear for your sewing buck!

To this day, I have made 17 full pairs of Lisette pjs and two pairs of extra bottoms!

 Liesl Gibson's Lisette B6296 is one hard working pattern.

Tildy requested a gingham pair piped in navy. I wasn't sure about that combination but I was surprised and pleased with how snappy they looked!

The gingham pattern was printed not woven and it was not printed true to grain. I decided to fussy cut the cuffs and pockets (so they were technically off grain) and I cut the pocket trim on the bias (but interfaced this piece). I cut the main body true to grain and stoically ignored the pattern not matching perfectly (this was not easy, trust me, my brain likes symmetry)

For the first time, I didn't interface the sleeve and hem cuffs so I will be keen to see how they wear. The pattern does not instruct you to interface these pieces, it is just my usual choice to.

I always enjoy myself piping ALL the edges.

I do sew my cuffs a little differently to the pattern instructions. I like to inclosed all my raw edges for a perfect finish rather than leaving an overlocked edge. It's a little more work but worth it. I topstitch the cuff in place along the edge of the piping.

Piping the back yoke can be fiddly and it is best if you neaten those two seams before attaching the piping for ease.

I neaten my waistband too, top stitching from the right side inclosing my raw edges, leaving a gap in the side seam of the waistband to thread the elastic through.

Cute, cute cute!

As per usual I narrow the shoulders by an inch, grading that down to the top sleeve notch. I made Tilly the size 10 top and the size 12 bottoms. No FBA is needed.

Navy piping and buttons set off her beautiful big blue eyes!

All the details make these a very up market pj set.

Another little finish technique I use is to stitch the pockets in place. It stops them riding up and and they launder much nicer. I also do a French seam on the pocket bag edge if I am using a light fabric.

A lovely sew for my sweet, sweet girl.

Thank you for reading... xx Nicole 

Oliver+ S Bedtime Story Pajamas for Beatrix

Pyjama Day means new pyjamas!

 Oliver + S Bedtime Story pajamas 

My absolute favourite pyjamas.

I will admit my children prefer the button up top, or a tee with cotton bottoms but my heart remains true to the kimono style top.

The top is so elegant I have even made it as a regular top which got a lot of wear and was a great way to use a pretty piece of lace

 Full tutorial available at the above link.

Trixie chose a light and breezy double gauze with a sweet, stylised rainbow print. I decided to trim them with cotton poplin instead of the main fabric as it was a very light weight that was fraying heavily and I felt the poplin would stabilise the garment better.

The poplin is the last of a lush, Italian cotton poplin I made Elsa a shirt from when she was at University.

I personally prefer to use a ribbon for the outside bow. It looks snazzy, is quicker than making a self tie and uses up some of my huge ribbon stash. I chose some vintage, rayon grosgrain ribbon that I have a large roll of. The label says 'Made In Czechoslovakia' and it won't burn at the end with a hot knife (my usual finish for ribbon) so I have to do a narrow double hem)

I went with a self fabric for the inside tie.

The same poplin made a fun waistband, the contrasting colours  picks up the pink dots on the grey/blue main fabric.

Trixie is 10 and I made her the size 8. 

The top was fine but the bottoms were a bit snug and they back seam split a little after a days wear at school.

I had just enough fabric to make her another pair (Using the O+S Sleepover pj pattern) in a size 12.

A favourite of mine, Oliver+S always sew up beautifully. Liesl Gibson's instructions are like a sewing lesson each time you use them.

The pjs are a nice quick sew and make a great gift.

Thank you for reading... xx Nicole 

    

Sewist #15976115 Dress for Nicole, Zara and Connor's wedding

 More sewing from the wedding....

I knew exactly the dress I wanted for Zara's wedding. I would have loved to sew the Vikisews Ninel dress  but I dislocated my finger, tearing the tendons at the same time so I could only sew in bursts thus I knew I wouldn't manage the numerous fitting issues that would inevitably arrive with such a stunning pattern.

Tilly to the rescue!

She jumped on Sewist and designed a similar dress for me. The advantage of Sewist is the custom fitting nature. You still need to fit a wee bit but most of it is taken care off in the computer coding. I decided to sew the lining first and make any alterations to that.

The fit of the bodice was great but I felt the neckline was a bit high. 

I scooped it out, leaving a sleeve cap for the sleeves to attach to.

I scooped out the back a little too, not as much though. 

The skirt lining was spot on, no alterations needed!

Jerry liked it too!

Next I sewed up the main, no fitting needed, straight of the cutting board.

It is so swishy and delicious to wear!

I felt so incredibly glamorous 

I am absolutely thrilled with the result. 

The fabric was incredible to sew. It is from my favourite online dead stock fabric store Designer Ends

I used boning, sewn to the lining along the seam lines. The front neck line is reinforced with horse hair braid which gives you structure but is very wearable.

The back neckline has the same horse hair braid sewn into it. Excuse the wrinkles, these photos were taken after the wedding and I have washed the dress.

I used nude Bemsilk for the lining, under stitching by machine but hand sewing along the zipper.

I bound the arm seams, this gives some extra structure as well as looking so nice!

The sleeve linings are cut shorter than the main so they slightly pull in to give a blouson effect. I also sewed a loop of elastic to that seam to create some extra 'poof'

So sweet and puffy.

Here you can see how the sleeve is gently pulled inside.

It is not a dramatic look but a gentle 'drama' that I feel compliments Lidia and Tilly's dresses and is also very flattering on my wrinkly elbows.

All the sewing details!

Special thanks to a dear friend of Zara's, Airlie, a fashion designer who was SO helpful with the fine details of my dress.

I felt ever so pretty and was so, so comfortable.

The dress fits and skims but is not tight or uncomfortable.

I felt cool, calm and collected.

I was very pleased with my hair fascinator.

We had some last minute drama when I pulled my hair piece out and it was too pink (my dress was definitely peach toned)

 I messaged the lovely lady who made it and she crafted another that very evening for me! She trades as Kezabel on Marketplace.  

I shall save the pink one for Hugo and Maegan's wedding in March 2025.

I adore this dress, Tilly did an amazing job of making the pattern. I fully intend to make another version in a chambray or black and white gingham for Summer parties.

Do have a look at Sewist.com, it's fun to make a pattern and to not have to worry about fitting issues. It saves a lot of drama.

Don't mind my pale work boot feet!

Save the drama for the sleeves!

Thank you for reading... stay safe and well.

                                                                        xx Nicole