Sunday, October 29, 2017

Monsieur Shirt and KwikSew 2123 Jeans - Sewing for Hugo

I am still steadily sewing for Hugo but it is quite hard to get photos of said sewing.

He is not home as much and when he is, is playing sport or working.
And the hair needs to be a certain way before photos are allowed.
Earlier in the year I made him another Mister/Monsieur shirt from a green Wiltshire Liberty.
Which since has been known as his 'camo' shirt.
This is my go-to for him, I make him the medium and can sew it in five hours, no fittings required.

Another repeat sew is KwikSew 2123 mens jeans.
I altered this pattern a few years back lowering the waist band.
I just made them in a stretch to give some ease, I would need to size up in a rigid denim.
I used the last of my black, coated denim I purchased.
From 5 m I was able to make Vado jeans for me (which I no longer fit in so I altered them to fit Zara), a Burda skirt (to be blogged) and another pair of Vado jeans for me.
#ninjacutting for the win.
Nice and stretchy with heavy black jeans top stitching.
~Hugo's Verdict~
Camo Shirt
As most of you may know I have a particular soft spot for floral shirts. When shown the dark green khaki combination floral I immediately knew I wanted a shirt out of it. Most of my shirts are bright florals so this darker gum tree like floral  is a nice change up. The shirt pattern is the same as my past (Marie?) which although nice and fitted to my body gives me plenty of movement. 

Dark Jeans

My light blue denim jeans that I have had for over 4 years have seen better days. I have actually worn the backside out of them sitting down so much at university. With the blue jeans subbed out as summer emergencies I needed a new pair. Mum kindly made me a new pair of fitted jeans out of black coated denim. These jeans are really comfortable the dark colour of them really makes my floral shirts stand out.

I am a very lucky man
~My Verdict~
I am tired and a 'bear of very little brain' at present. Go-to patterns are a life saver, which both of these are!
I have my own shirt sewing order in which I iron, interface and sew all the pieces that need it, rather then a traditional method as I have made it so many times.
Not needing to fit the jeans is also very handy not to mention I can ninja cut with another garment, making the most of my fabric.

Thank you for reading xx N

Saturday, October 28, 2017

Music Class Skirt for Beatrix

The Music Class skirt and blouse is a bit of a favourite around here.
Tilly circa 2014
Unfortunately, it is a wee bit small for a cloth nappied toddler.
So I thought I would try something...
Using some gorgeous The Drapery cotton velvet left over from Tildy's overalls I sewed the skirt up except for one side seam, which I pre-neatened.
I then added the waistband.
I pre-neatened the inside edge.
I positioned the zip, starting half way down the waistband and pinned the bottom edge of the skirt from where there zipper finished.
I sewed that and then set in the zip.
I then folded the waistband over, pinning and stitching from the right side (stitch in the ditch)
I tucked the inside edge of the waistband, near the zip top, to the inside for securing once the elastic is added.
I used a white zipper as that is what I had to hand, I would suggest colour matching a little better.
From the front the skirt looks exactly the same
But the opening at the back allows for easier dressing.
It looks lovely with her 2+2 blouse.
photo by Liddy
~My Verdict~
So pleased with this little adaption. 
Such a quick sew, one hour start to finish, it was such a shame I couldn't sew it for Beatrix and now I can!
The cotton velveteen is gorgeous, check out the link!
photo by Liddy
Too cute!
Tildy circa 2015
 Thank you for reading
xx N

Friday, October 27, 2017

Lekala #6112 Hooded Waistcoat

The beauty of sewing is being able to make something exactly to someones' wishes. 
Hugo asked me if I could make him a vest, but something snappy, preferably with a hood but lined, with satin, in a funky colour and could it have a zipper? Not buttons, oh and pockets that would hold his phone...
Lekala#6112 was a lucky find. It is labelled as a 'hooded waistcoat' which is exactly what Hugo requested.
I sewed it up in some aubergine cashmere/wool blend that had been stashed for a few years (purchased from a Saltbush fabric sale). 

The lining is stretch satin from DK's fabric.
As I wanted to bag the lining there was quite a bit of brain storming with this sew. I wished I had blogged it immediately but Hugo grabbed it to wear. I have only just got photos
I think... the construction was along the lines of creating the lined hood, sandwiching it between the lining and the main. Then I sewed the outside shoulder seams, lining and main, leaving the side seams. I then sewed the lining and main side seams in one pass, leaving a good size opening in the side seam to pull the vest back through after bagging.

I then turned the garment, right sides together and sewed the lining front raw edge to the main, sandwiching the zipper in between. Turned, pressed, turned back again and bagged the lining.

There was  quite a bit of edge stitching to the seam allowances too but I have NO idea exactly when I did that.

All I know is, it worked, it saved me a ship load of hand sewing and it is one sturdy and very warm vest that Hugo has flogged this Winter.

I tried to put the eyelets in to run a elastic casing through the hood but I right, royally stuffed those up.
 Luckily it looks fine with out it.
~Hugo's Verdict~
I have a few light weight knit jumpers and wool coats but did not have an in between (garment) that would keep me warm but also compact enough to roll up in my bag.
When I was shown the pattern for the hooded vest it was exactly what I needed.
I also really like the purple (aubergine)! wool and peach lining it is sewn out of as it works really well with all my shirts and gives my outfit a more casual look.
It kept me warm during my Human Physiology exam.

~My Verdict~
This was truly one of those projects when I was 'winging' it.
The wins... managing to successfully bag the lining and having the perfect fabric and notions in my stash.
The loss... managing to set the pockets so they face back wards instead of forwards, at least they are so big he swears it doesn't bother him.
Lets not talk about the installing of eyelets...
You know this projects you think are going to be a piece of piddle and then they take f o r e v e r? This was one of those.
The custom fit is great, no complaints there, any issues that arose were my own doing.

Thanks for reading xx N
Worn with Aime Comme Marie shirt and Kwik Sew jeans.

Wednesday, October 25, 2017

Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat.

GOLD, gold, always believe in you so-oh...
I had my (swoon) favourite song from my teens running through my head as I made this latest sew for Beamish.
A Thread Theory Goldstream peacoat, cropped.
Really, really cropped.
80's New Romantic pop star cropped.
Now, The 'Go has a very particular style. I love it, I get to sew him some great clothes... but I wasn't too sure about this one.
For at least a year Hugo has been showing me pictures of cropped, fitted pea-coats.
I picked up some grey woollen coat fabric in Melbourne and with some serious #ninjacutting I was able to cut Tilly's capeZara's soft jacket and this number from 3 1/2m.
I sewed the same size as last time (handy) but we cropped that sucker!
We also left off the hood and front pockets but made the interior pocket a wee bit larger.
The signature red button was a must as were the epaulets
The buttons are enamelled coconut shell, lush!
Love these buttons.
The lining is apparel, stretch satin.
I used satin in his last coat and some of the seams had taken some wear so I now use stretch satin when I can.
I applied sheer weft interfacing to the lining sleeve caps as well as the main.
This lining has good ease, the generous back vent helps too.
Hopefully he doesn't split the seams on this one.
Since making Hugo's first coat I have learnt how to bag a lining thanks to Nana Deb's awesome instructions 
Seriously, the easiest method I have used.
Thank you Deb!
~Hugo's Verdict~
On our annual pilgrimage to (Elizas?) in Sunshine, Melbourne for fabric, Mum and I found a lovely grey wool that I really liked the look of.
 I had been toying with the idea of asking Mum to make me a new coat and when I saw the fabric it was exactly what I was after. 
My black Peacoat fits me very nicely still and keeps me nice and warm when commuting to university in the morning but becomes a little cumbersome to carry around the rest of the day when it warms up. With this in mind I asked Mum if she could make me a waist length peacoat.
 With the long list of other items to be sewn I expected to wait until next Winter to wear the coat but was extremely lucky due to some machine issues that my coat was bumped up the list and t made before the end of the cold weather. 

The coat is exactly what I was after keeping me warm in the mornings and nice and easy to carry around throughout the warmer parts of the day. With the nice structured military styled body it has it makes me stand up straighter and pampers my vanity as I think it makes me look taller. The custom inside pocket for my phone is fantastic too as it makes reaching my phone so much easier when sitting down and when on the move. In short I am over the moon with this coat and somewhat disappointed the cold weather is disappearing.

~My Verdict~
I enjoyed this sew.
Thread Theory are an absolute pleasure to sew and the fact that I did not have to piece that bloody sheet together a second time definitely enhanced the experience.
Bagging the lining made it so much quicker, eliminating hours of hand sewing and making a sturdier garment too.
I can see a glaring mistake with the front. I should have reduced the front slope, I can see it hangs down when fastened.
Not about to fix it though...
Do I like it?
Not really but he does and that is what counts.

Excuse me while I dance away...

Thanks for reading xx N

Photo credit to Zara and a lovely girl Hugo bailed up at Uni.

Style Arc Lauren Boyfriend Shirt

It was time to replace my gingham shirt.
I decided on the Style Arc Lauren Boyfriend shirt in some crisp, cotton navy and white gingham from Spotlight, Bendigo, $16/m.
~From the website~
This boyfriend style shirt is a wearable example of the new trend in shirts. Sleeve interest is such an important part of the current trends and this shirt has a longer than usual cuff with the buttoning at the front. Roll the sleeves up to give an easy, casual look, great over jeans or a pair of slouchy pants. The men's style shirt tails makes this a perfect over shirt.
The oversize cuff is so elegant.
However, it rolls nicely too for a practical, everyday wear.
Now, everything is exaggerated.
The huge back yoke, big pocket and high/low shirt tails.
However, the stitched down back, box pleat neatly removes any bulk.
I will admit I was concerned the shoulder seam would cut into my narrow shoulders but it doesn't at all.
It is the perfect 'boyfriend' shirt.
Mannish styling cut for the feminine shape.
~My Verdict~
Very pleased.
My bust measurement put me in the size 10 and I didn't worry about a FBA. I took the chance that would be enough ease and Elsa was happy to take it if it was too small.
I do like Style Arc, it is only my second Style Arc sew but I am a convert.
Not instruction heavy but that is okay with me. The paper pattern are only one size but if you purchase a PDF version it comes with three.
My only real grumble is the ink runs if you press the pattern. I am a pretty pedantic presser and this caused some issues.

I have already sewn another version in a pretty floral lawn and they have nicely filled a gap in my wardrobe.

Thanks for reading xx N

Saturday, October 21, 2017

Lekala #7207 Teenage Coat

Once again we drew inspiration from Witchery
Liddy fell in love with this jacket.
Jacket from Witchery, no longer available. 
At $100, it was pretty good value for a nice coat but it only goes up to 14 and Liddy measures out of that.
After looking at a lot of patterns, we settled on Lekala #7207
I keep coming back to Lekala, for Liddy, as she is so skinny  but has a big set of shoulders.
 She is hard to fit.
Next, fabric...
I put out a SOS for metallic, silver, French terry with my sewing friends and the wonderful Sarvi came to the rescue.
Thank you Mood  and thank you Sarvi.
I ordered directly from Mood, using their international postage service. The postage was around $40 which I thought was pretty reasonable for a fast, pain-free service.
I pre-washed the fabric and it 'heathered' up beautifully.
The surfaced crackled but it didn't peel off.
I lined the main coat with a soft, very stretchy, grey jersey cloth. 
The hood with organic cotton fleece.
I used silver press studs to fasten it.
I bagged the lining, as per directions but I sort of wish I hadn't. I may go and top stitch the hem down.
It seems to be pulling in on its self and there is good ease in the lining.
My favourite thing is the shoulder fit.
Plenty of room to grow but not excessive fabric around her body.
The hood is removable, a fact that is not mentioned.
You sort of work that out as you are sewing, that's Lekala!
There are so many pieces to the pattern and I really had to concentrate on what was main, lining and trim, what was 'cut one', what was 'cut two' and where to interface.
I made copious notes on the pattern as I plan to make Liddy a navy wool version, next Winter.
Yes, I definitely going to top stitch that hem.
~Lidia's Verdict~
This coat is gorgeous!
 I love the deep pockets and the fluffy hood. The fabric is beautiful and I love how it is heathered. The lining is a delicate t-shirt fabric which makes it feel so light but really warm at the same time. I wore it to the local fair and cannot wait for another opportunity (or excuse) to show Mum's sewing off.
~My Verdict~
I enjoyed this sew so much!
Beautiful, quality fabric. A really well cut pattern (instructions were very Lekala-ish) and a thoroughly excited recipient.
I took my time, interfacing the fronts, yokes and sleeve caps (wondering if I should have interfaced the hem)? and top stitched through out.
My only grumble is that hem roll. I guess it is 'gripping' being knit? I will try stitching it with a double row and see if that helps it sit.
The sleeve lining seems to be stretching out of the sleeve ends too so I may stitch this as well.
I still have a nice big piece leftover... maybe a bomber jacket for Tildy?
Photo credit to Zara 
Thank's for reading.
xx N