Monday, June 29, 2020

OOP Simplicity 7606 Blazer for Matilda

So, after a highly successful, Friday night, #ninjacutting session.
I was able to jiggle a blazer and a pair of dungarees  ) from some very pretty embroidered corduroy that I purchased from Eliza Fabrics.
It is a truly lovely piece of fabric, very soft with good quality embroidery. I think it was $5/m, maybe $6?
It had quite a few flaws (all kindly marked with red tailors knots) but, by pure fluke, they all were around my pattern pieces.
The blazer is unlined and I ummed and ahhed about whether to line it, partially line or just line the sleeves.
In the end, after much discussion with Matilda, we decided to go with the status quo and leave it unlined.
It is not a thick, Winter warmth type fabric anyway. Tildy gets hot and as it is quite fitted she was worried about the lining being sticky.
She also thought it would look super cute over her Summer dresses, thus again, unlined worked the best!
I am sorry about the photos, I struggle to photograph black.
The jacket has lovely shaping, nipping in at the waist ever so slightly.
The pocket flaps are for look, there are no pockets (but I think I will add patch pockets if I make another version).
It makes a lovely suit with her dungarees/trousers.
It looks proper smart!
~My Verdict~
This is why I sew.
To be able to make an piece of clothing for my daughter, that she loves, that she looks and feels amazing in and that I had an absolute blast sewing, well, that is pretty, jolly nice!
This wasn't a 'hard' sew but it was a 'proper' sew. The collar and lapels are constructed properly with an upper collar (that is a smidge larger) and an under collar (two piece, cut on the bias).
This meant I could fit the blazer on Matilda, 'roll' the collar to sit nicely, pin it, steam it, let it dry and the catch the seams in place with a hand tacking stitch.
The lapels are quite wide, but it was the 70's and that was the fashion. Paired with her new shirt, from the same era, it all works,
Although I tried it on Tildy several times whilst sewing, I didn't adjust the fit what so-ever, it was perfect, straight out of the packet.
~Matilda's Verdict~

I love the little pleat on the back and the one button to hold it all together. 
My former teacher Mrs V loves blazers and say that we will be blazer buddies now and that we will be legends together.
Thank you for reading....
                                         xx Nicole

Sunday, June 28, 2020

OOP Simplicity 7279 Dungarees for Matilda

These were a really fun sew!
You know me, I am ALL about the ruffles.
I have had this pattern in my sewing queue for a little while now.
Of course I love the bib with shoulder ruffles, but...
It is removable, how clever is that?
So you have a nice pair of trousers as well.
Which, incidentally pairs beautifully with Tildy's blazer
The pattern instructed you to sew the buttons to the inside of the waistband so that they are hidden but Tilly was quite happy to have them visible and I felt they may have been uncomfortable against her tummy.
The back straps cross over and button at the back.
Although the trousers fitted perfectly through the derrière they were far too big in the waist.
If I had made deeper darts and taken them in at the waist they would not have fit over her hips.
To solve this, I inserted some non curl elastic, either side of the zipper, at the back only.
Problem solved!
The fabric is just lush!
Fine, pinwale cord, with embroidered detail.
I was thrilled to be able to cut the dungarees and a blazer from just over 3 metres.
The fabric is from Eliza Fabrics in Sunshine, Melbourne. It was around $5/m and had a few flaws but they were all neatly marked with red tailor knots.
I adore them over her green shirt
~My Verdict~
An absolute delight of a pattern. I am thrilled that I have it in the next size up.
I wish I had a little bit more of the fabric then I could have made the skirt too (and swopped the bib back and forth)
I did interface the bib (both sides) as the cord was quite light and I am glad I did (I used my fancy black interfacing) as it sits so nicely with that bit of firmness.
The legs were a little too full for our liking so I folded them back and made them 'straight leg'.
The 'elastic in the waistband' worked a treat.
I used a 'lapped' finish for the zipper, simply because I like the look!
~Matilda's Verdict~
I love the frills on the arm holes and  how they still show the little bit of puff on my blouse and the little embroidered flowers and shapes on the fabric it just adds a little touch
Thank you for reading...
                                        xx Nicole 

OOP Simplicity 6826 Cape for Beatrix

This sew was a trip down Memory Lane.
Look, my sewing room was still Oliver+S aqua!
During our 2017 Victorian Holiday I purchased some lovely, thick woollen fabric. At the time I was told it was a cashmere mix but having since sewn with cashmere (it was labeled) I suspect it wasn't.
It doesn't matter, it is soft and warm.
When I got home I cut and sewed this cape for Matilda.
To make the most of the cloth I #ninjacut one for Trixie too.
Now in 2017, Trixie was just a tiny tot and my smallest cape pattern was for a size 4, so I cut it and put it away.
I have a checklist that Lidia made me. If I ninjacut something not being made immediately I add all the information to the list and this is kept on a clipboard on my sewing trolley.
Just so I don't forget!
cape originally made by Witchery Kids, no longer available.
Funny story, when I cut this cape I wasn't sure I would still want the epaulets and pocket flaps (when sewing it up) so I stored the extra pieces of fabric in tiny ziplock bag, with the above picture, in with the cut pattern, just in case.
Fast forward three years and I thought I would quite like the details so I opened the bag.... and found two black wool cuff cutoffs.
I was so confused and then it clicked.
I had altered a jacket for one of Hugo's friends, shortening the sleeves. I always send the scraps back, just in case a garment needs a repair in the future. It was at the same time I was cutting the capes and I must have sent the navy wool bits back to her!
(The were only small and would have been in the same size ziplock bag)
I made discrete inquiries about the jacket and found out it had been donated so I figured the scraps were long gone.
I had a good whinge to a Marco Polo chum and moved on.
Any hoo...
The cape turned out very nicely indeed.
Trixie was super keen to have the double row of metal buttons like the inspiration picture.
The second row of buttons and button holes are faux.
Interesting point, I was reading in a couture sewing book that one always stitches the mock buttonholes, even if you they are not cut and you sew a button over the top.
As the cape is not meant to be double breasted the second row is off centre but I don't think it is super noticeable on a child's garment.
Trixie chose a pretty, coral-ly coloured satin for the lining
(From the remnant bin at Eliza Fabrics)
As the cape doesn't have a front facing I interfaced the front cape panel and front cape lining panel.
This actually caused a few issues when finishing, stretching out at the hem, and I thought I was going to have to jiggle things to make it work.
The finished garment has a bit of a wiggle at the hem but it is okay.
I made a note to cut the lining just a bit longer, next time, so I could adjust it.
I still have the scraps of Liberty I trimmed from the facings of Trixie's wool dungarees so I used that to make a sweet label.
~Trixie's Verdict~
Love it!
The buttons are my favourite because I like them because they really pretty.
The inside is pink, love that colour.
It has a hole for putting your hands in. For if you are feeling hot.
I love the colour and feel of the outside.
I can swing and twirl 
~My Verdict~
I did enjoy this sew!
Considering the type of garment it is, I think five hours is a very quick sew too!
The secret to sewing something with such thick fabric is to take care with your interfacing.
I traced my sheer weft to be exactly the size needed and made sure it was not caught in the seam.
I also carefully graded all my seams, taking care not to cut through my stitch lines.
As things had ended up a little twisty and funky at the front edge of the cape, I pressed and clappered the billy-oh out of it and then edge stitched all the way around to keep it in place.
Honestly, this was a very easy garment to make and it looks so much more complicated than it was!
Although it was only as size 4, it does fits Trixie as capes are quite forgiving.
I am a little disappointed I didn't get to make the dress or the cute little hat though.

Thank you for reading....
                                          xx Nicole