Saturday, November 17, 2018

McCalls 7862 Blouse for Tildy

Now you know I am a fan of #ninjacutting.
That is, cutting out several garments at one time so I can make the most of the fabric and eliminate waste.
So I cut this sweet little number when I was laying out my linen shirt
The pattern was in a bundle that I received from a lovely local lady that was clearing out her stash.

I love the neckline, I thought it had an Asian feel and I remembered I had the left over Sakura blossoms from Lidia's dress
The stems can be carefully snipped to the style you require, then ironed in place (with a Goddess cloth) and I like to topstitch with co-ordinating thread.
The blouse has beautiful finishing, with arm facings (which I interfaced and top stitched) an inclosed seam shawl neck collar and yoke self facings.
The button is a painted MoP sent to me by my dear friend Justine
~Tildy's Verdict~
I really like the flower, it makes me feel happy.
When I wear it, it feels like Summer. I like to wear it with my new shorts.
The fabric is comfy and the style is floaty and cool to wear.
~My Verdict~
This was a lovely sew that was a lot more time consuming then I thought it would be but I like that!
I made a cutting mistake and only cut two front yokes from the linen instead of four so I used poplin. It isn't washing as well so I wish I hadn't.
I am not sure I would make the other Views, maybe the rolled sleeves but the long sleeved version was super poofy.
It is still a little big on Tildy which is always a good thing.


#ninjacutting for the win!

Thank you for reading xx N





Friday, November 16, 2018

McCalls 8702 My New Favourite Shirt

I have thoroughly embraced the capsule wardrobe concept.
I make sure I need a piece before I sew it, I really try to make only what I need.
One piece I have been planning is a nice white shirt.
I had previously sewn an Aime Comme Madame shirt
Which I wore frequently but as Trixie fed less and my weight stabilised it didn't fit as nicely and it went to a new home.
I knew I wanted a sleeve placket, two piece collar and an over size but neat fit.
A back yoke, a back vent for ease, nice long tails...
And a side vent.
I found the perfect pattern in an Op Shop in Bendigo.
I always look out for the 'Designer does Big Four' patterns, even if they are dated they have nice details.
I was a bit sad upon opening the packet to see the pattern was butchered. The seam allowances had been hacked off some edges and not others and the main had been cut in several places.
Liddy was happy to be a guinea pig so I sewed it up in some Japanese lawn from Spotlight.
It wasn't too bad on me, width wise but too short and the front placket was super wide and the neck band didn't fit nicely.
I added length to the front and back (at the lengthen lines) and also made a back vent for more tummy ease. 
My first version for me I sewed in some denim tencel I found in the remnant bin at Spotlight.
I topstitched it with copper thread and used metal press studs to play up 'jeans' effect.
I wear this shirt a lot. As a shirt and also a light jacket over an Ogden cami.
I love this shirt!
The fabric is a medium weight linen that drapes beautifully.
The shoulder fit is perfect so if I lose or gain weight, it will still fit.
I love the back fit, it touches rather than clings.
Being a slightly heavier linen, I can 'wear it and air it' saving laundry and the shirt's life.
~My Verdict~
Very pleased.
I repaired the pattern with Swedish tracing paper and it is good to go!
I have three shirts in my capsule now, the denim and the white linen as well as my Style Arc Boyfriend shirt (I had a Japanese lawn version but I wasn't wearing it so my sister scored it plus an Ogden cami from the same fabric)
With my casual life style, three is ample and all are worn regularly.
I love my evolving wardrobe. Getting dressed is so easy and I always feel nice.
The only items I need now are a light denim skirt, may be some Boyfriend shorts and then a few 'sometimes' clothes, a black blazer, some black dress trousers, a black linen shift dress and I have some rose gold sequinned fabric I want to make a pencil skirt from.
It is fun and it is nice to do something for me.

Thank you for reading.
xx N

Thursday, November 15, 2018

Lekala Vest #6063 for Hugo and FreePatterns Wahid that wasn't

Hugo asked me to make him a vest for his Med Ball. The theme was Carnivale and he was after a plain woollen vest to wear over his Liberty shirt
His first choice was a scrap of dark charcoal wool coating leftover from his Goldstream Peacoat
And Zara's Lisette Moto jacket
We were both keen to try the Wahid waistcoat by the very talented Joost De Cock.
Similar to Lekala, you put in your measurements and print off a PDF pattern.
The patterns are free but you can 'buy a coffee' for Joost, if you wish.
So I printed, glued, cut and starting sewing the vest. The instructions were great and the welt pockets went in like a dream.
And then I got Hugo to try it on...
I must have measured incorrectly (there are a lot of measurements)
It was not going to fit and there was nothing I could do.
Back to the drawing board with Lekala #6063
But I had one working day to print, glue, cut and sew with no fittings, Hugo was working off farm.
I had to use what I had to hand so went with the charcoal wool coating left over from Hugo's Spandau Ballet tribute coat
Zara's Lekala Cocoon coat
And Tilly's vintage cape
I lined it with a satin backed crepe remnant from Eliza Fabrics.
It had some stretch and I much prefer a heavier lining fabric.
I also sewed a natty Liberty patch, just for fun.
I interfaced all the pieces, main and lining with Sheerweft interfacing for extra structure.
The buttons are black, enamelled shell.
Due to time constraints I only made one welt pocket and it was not my best work. I accidentally reversed the pocket bags so the satin and wool were around the wrong way but, it happens.
The waistcoat ties at the back but I may offer to sew a buckle to remove bulk.
I think it looked fabulous over his Carnivale Liberty shirt.
I bagged the lining and then pulled the waistcoat through to the right side. After a good pressing I sewed the main shoulder seams together, pressed the seam open and then hand sewed the lining.
The garment is top stitched. 
The deep arm holes show off the fabrics.
He says he is wearing it regularly to Uni.
The fit is pretty good considering I had to no chance to try it on him whilst sewing.
I can't show you a photo of hm wearing it to the Med Ball as evidently it didn't fit under his suit.

~Hugo's Verdict~
I do so love wearing waistcoats.
I like how they make an outfit a bit smarter and how they keep you that little bit warmer.
I had grown out of my original waistcoat but luckily for me Mum was able to sew me up a new one, tailored for me, which suited me even better.
Sewn in a beautiful grey wool the waistcoat has kept my torso warm and paired rather well with all my floral shirts.
It has been perfect for Uni when the weather wasn't quite cool enough for a coat or jumper.
The silky lining is smooth and allow wearing ease and movement.
I thoroughly love this waistcoat for its style and functionality and hope I will be able to have more sewn in the future.

~My Verdict~
Lekala saved the day (although it needn't have bothered as he didn't wear it #mebitternever )
I have not given up on the Wahid waistcoat, I will try and save my partially made one as it has two perfect pockets and all the lining and main are interfaced.
Possibly use the Lekala pattern to re-cut it? Have a narrower front? I will see.
For me, it was a good lesson in not being *too* available. I neglected Trixie and worked my tail off to get this made in time, its hard not to take it personally when it doesn't get worn for the special occasion.
When you sew for someone it *is* personal.
No, you cannot make someone want to wear something but you are entitled to feel a bit miffed when they don't.
I look forward to sewing this pattern again, in a more relaxed fashion.

Ah well, these things are sent to try us.

Thanks for reading ... xx N


Saturday, November 10, 2018

Lime is the New Black~ Butterick 6655 ~Zara's Pickernick Dress

I like to make each of my tribe something special for their birthday.
Zara was very keen on a lime green gingham sundress.
It was a coincidence that when we pulled out the pattern, there was one on the cover.
Do you remember this dress?
It is the same pattern I used to make her silk dress for the Football Black Tie dinner
Zara wanted it quite short so I choose View B but went with a deep hem so it would hang nicely.
The gingham is some vintage stuff from my stash. It was quite narrow and I was only just able to cut the skirt pieces from it.
It was so soft and pressed up beautifully.
Zara was after quite a 'poofy' skirt so I dropped in a lawn lining.
I hemmed that to sit an inch above the dress hem.
Thread chains keep the lining in place.
I put the hem up by hand (Zara's request) but this time I used the patterns method to reduce the fullness.
I usually make small darts in the hem, pressing them down, at regular  increments, and then sew the hem in place.
This time I sewed a large gathering stitch and pulled that in gently to remove fullness, pressed, pinned and hand sewed.
I prefer my method, a lot smoother and neater looking.
The elastic casing is a wide bias strip that covers the bodice/waist seam. The elastic is threaded neatly through the front opening.
I like it!
~Zara's Verdict~
This dress is adorable. I had this vision in mind and Mum nailed it.
The apple green colour of the gingham paired with the gorgeous halter neck created the loveliest Spring/Summer dress.
~My Verdict~
I *love* sewing vintage patterns so this one was a no brainer.
All the fabric was from my stash (and I think that was all given to me).
It was a very pleasant afternoon sew.
(But I think I will stick to my way of hemming)

Thank you for reading... xx N