Tuesday, November 21, 2023

Aime Comme Mister shirt, Lekala #6063 waistcoat and Jedediah trousers for Ben, for Elsa's wedding.


Lidia's boyfriend Ben is such a nice chap and has been a super helpful fellow to me. He does all sorts of jobs around the house and farm and is very handy at making things too. In exchange for his efforts I offered to so him a new outfit for Elsa's wedding.

I directed him to my Pinterest board to give me a few ideas and then off I went!

First up, the shirt.

Our tried and true Aime Comme Marie Mister 

I have made Hugo over 18 of these bad boys.
I found the Japanese lawn on an Australian website (I can't seem to find it again) I originally purchased 2 metres  in the purple colour way for Ben, 2.5 m of a pink for Jed and a few fat quarters of the stone for collars and trims for both.
Unfortunately the material was so narrow I had to dip into all of the fabric cuts to finish Ben's shirt.
After much consideration I decided to cut the back panel from the pink as I figured in a more formal setting one would be wearing a waistcoat or blazer and the 'patchwork' would be hidden.

Although a very lovely print it ended up being more expensive (fabric usage) than Liberty!

Mother of pearl buttons always give a fine finish.

All that aside, I was really happy with the shirt until he tried it on...
Ben's chest measurement put him in a Small so that is the size I drafted  and sewed. The fit was perfect across the back and waist but....
The jolly arms were too short!!!!!
Honestly, I never even considered that. He was terribly sweet and assured me he likes to roll his sleeves anyway but after the fabric shortage issue I was so annoyed with myself. I immediately altered the pattern adding  two inches to the sleeves so we are good to go next time.
Next, trousers.
Another Keller-men tried and true. Jedediah pants
Again, Ben measured the smallest size BUT this time I double checked his leg length.
I wasn't too worried here, Jedediah have long legs, I cut 10 inches off to make Jed and Hugo's.

I chose a brushed, peach skin drill and omitted fancy top stitching to make a dressier trouser.
Leaving off the top stitching makes a quicker sew.
These trousers have such a nice finish.
Not too shabby!
Finally, the waistcoat.
Another Keller favourite Lekala #6063

I do like a chap in a waistcoat!
The fabric is a lovely herringbone weave wool remnant from deep stash. It would definitely be vintage and I had it earmarked for Trixie but Ben is totally worthy.
This is a classic waistcoat style with good ease and three welt pockets.
I finished it with tortoiseshell buttons (but purposely didn't cut the lower button so it couldn't be done up)
I prefer a buckle and strap rather than a knot. It sits flatter to the small of the back, looks snappy and give me a chance to use one of the vintage buckles that  I have been given over the years.

I prefer to use a stretch satin for the lining. It has greater ease for comfort and looks more luxurious.
If you are using a quality wool fabric for the main and taking your time with welt pockets why not make the whole garment as beautiful as possible?

I swear by this video to sew my welts.

Proper dapper!

They made a lovely couple

Thank you for reading ... xx Nicole 

Sunday, November 19, 2023

Sewist #5584109 dress and #5596898 top for Lidia, for Elsa's wedding


More wedding sewing.

Lidia's turn.

Matilda and Lidia chose very different looks for Elsa's wedding. As Lids was deep in exam prep she sent me a photo and left it in my hands. I, in turn, hand balled the pattern design to Matilda and she jumped on to Sewist

First, she made the blouse, Sewist #5596898 . There was not an option for a full collar and ruffle so I modified the pattern.

The blouse is very slim fitting, so much so I could not get it on my mannequin for photos. If I sew it again I will use a longer zipper. The fabric is an unusual broderie. The flowers are finished with a rubber finish which made ironing a challenge. I have had the fabric in my stash for 20 years. It was purchased from a South Australian clothing company run by the lovely Annette Coleman, chetWynd. 

A pressing cloth was a necessity.

The pinafore dress Matilda designed was perfect! Sewist #5584109

The fabric was a lucky find on eBay. It is a 1960's brocade that was pristine.

I am nor sure of the fabric composition. It was inclined to fray and was not easily pressed. In all, a reasonably challenging sew.

The pattern was perfect, every piece fitted together just so.

I used a regular zipper, not invisible, as I find them sturdier.

I lined the pinafore with blue satin.

And hand sewed down all the facings.

I added some bust padding, sandwiching it between the lining and main. This is a standard practice I do with Lidia's dresses.

It ended up being just as lovely from the inside.

The complete outfit was made without fitting, just relying on Lidia's measurement and the custom made pattern. The only adjustment I had to do was shorten the straps by a few cm.

A very pretty outfit.

The wedding was beautiful.

The evening was a bit chilly so Lids swapped her blouse for a merino skivvy.

A wonderful night was had by all.

Sewist definitely make sewing for an absent client easier.

After the wedding, Lidia mentioned that show wouldn't mind another blouse sewn, with fuller sleeves, so I tried my hand and pattern making.

How do you think I did?

I purchased two remnants of silk burnout chiffon to make the sleeves 

And this gorgeous georgette for the main body.

I shall let you know how it goes!

Thank you for reading... xx Nicole