Sunday, August 12, 2018

Lekala #4021 One-Piecer for Lidia

Part two of our Ballerina inspired outfit...
We have made the waistcoat
Lekala #4339

Now to show you the shorts.
Lidia is not a huge fan of jeans or shorts as they fall down on her slight frame.
We both like this one-piecer from Lekala.
I sewed them up in the leftover pieces from Jed's latest Jedediah jeans (to be blogged) #ninjacutting.
I used heavy jeans thread in copper for the the top stitching and bronze hardware for the trims.
The lederhosen type straps can be completely removed so she can wear the high waisted shorts on their own.
They fit so well.
I had my concerns the legs were going to be indecently short but they are fine!
The only sizing adjustment I did was to move the buttons in to create more of a waist for her.
The denim/wool is very soft and warm, it has a tiny amount of stretch, for comfort.
Paired with her woollen School Bus tee (to be blogged), it will be a very warm outfit that should transition to Spring nicely.
If she doesn't grow out of it by then.
I think we did well, we captured the look without it looking too costume-y.

(The boots were NWOT on eBay, I swear I have a little eBay fairy that helps me find things)
~Lidia's Verdict~
This outfit is one of my favourite Winter wardrobe combinations yet, it would be almost impossible for me to choose my favourite garment, I love the vest and the low yoke it has. I think that the removable straps on the high waisted overalls are really cute and nifty. I cannot wait to wear them out!
Thank you for reading xx N

Tuesday, August 7, 2018

Lekala #4339 Waistcoat for Lidia

A few months back, Liddy was watching Netflix with the little girls.
I think she enjoyed Ballerina as much as they did.
(I often delegate supervising movies to the older girls, they know my views on what I deem suitable and act accordingly)
Lidia loved the outfit Felicie is wearing.
A waistcoat over a tee, denim shorts over legging and lace up boots.
She asked if we could recreate it.
Although there were other waistcoats that were a better match, Liddy preferred this one with the lovely collar.
The fabric is the Herringbone wool I purchased off of eBay a few years back.
I picked up a roll, for under $20 including postage.
The same cloth I used for...
these dungarees

another pair of dungarees
this coat
And another pair of dungarees.
I used a copper coloured stretch satin for the lining, I prefer apparel satin for lining as it wears better and give more structure to the garment.
Rather than trim my lining and sew my facing to the edges I turned the facings and top stitched them in place.
Lekala don't give you separate lining pieces but rather, instruct you how to trim your main pattern back.
I also chose to under-stitch my seams to prevent rolling.
I went in through the side seam opening (left to facilitate bagging) and under stitched the arm holes, by hand, with a running stitch.
There were no ties on the diagram but they appeared when I printed the pattern and were mentioned in the instructions, the magic of Lekala.
The fit was spot on!
To give a bit more structure, I interfaced every piece, lining and main, with sheer weft interfacing (except for one side of the collar).
The buttons are leather knotted ones, the pocket is a faux welt.
I am glad I used the ties, it allows her to cinch it in.


~My Verdict~
I really like Lekala for fitting free sewing. Liddy is very slim but has broad shoulders and is taller than Jed. Sewing for her with basic patterns requires a muslin and a lot of tweaking.

This was not an easy sew, it was time consuming with all the prepping of interfacing and stay stitching.

I did bag the lining, except for the arm holes. These I did by going back in through the side seam opening and slowly pinning and sewing the seam in small increments. It was incredibly fiddly but left only a tiny gap to be hand sewn.

That said, I really enjoyed it. I do love sewing coats and the like. The fact that they last a long time and hand on well, is a bonus.


Next, the shorts!

Thank you for reading xxx N

Wednesday, May 30, 2018

Liberty Liquorice~ McCalls 2353 OOP

Zara had her first work placement and requested a new outfit.
Something snappy but fun, elegant but easy to move in.
I suggested a Liberty blouse and spread the ones I had out for her to  look at (by FaceTime) she replied she liked ALL the Capels and may she have a patchwork one?
The pattern is McCalls 2353, OOP but still readily available on eBay.
This was my go-to pattern in my 20-30's when I still had a small waist.
I have made it several times before and Zara had them in town to try so I knew it would fit.
Zara chose the placement of the colours.
I wouldn't have mixed the two pinks together but when you are 18 and fabulous, why not?
The colours don't work but they do.
~Alterations~
# Size 8 with a cm trimmed from the body shoulders tapered down to the front and back sleeve notches. 
# A cm trimmed from the sleeve cap.
#Added 2 cm to the hip tapering up to the waist for bottom ease.
# Narrowed the seam from the elbow down due to lack of fabric, one wrist pleat instead of two.
# Added two inches to the hem, front and back.
# Added a 2 cm back vent for ease.
# Swopped self facing to a double fold front band no interfacing in band.
# Sewed the sleeve cap with a 4/8ths seam for extra ease.
# Sewed the sleeve seam with 4/8ths seam due to lack of fabric.
# Sewed the rest of the shirt with 5/8ths seam.
Forgot (but should have) clipped the underarm seam before neatening for extra movement.
The skirt is Lekala #4335
I ordered the pattern purely on her measurements and finished it up to the side seams, so I could fit it on the weekend, when she came home.
It fitted perfectly!
Zara has a tiny waist so there was a lot or ease to try and sew in between the skirt and the yoke but it worked.
It is a very cute skirt and she is getting a lot of wear from it.
The only changes I made was to add belt loops.
~Zara's Verdict~
When I found out that I had my first work placement at a school, for my teaching degree at Uni, one of my first thoughts was what was I going to wear.
This lead to mum and I excitedly exchanging text messages with ideas of colours and patterns that could work.
A Liberty shirt and black skirt was the end result.
It was exactly what I pictured.
This is my first Liberty shirt and I am absolutely in love with it!
The quality is amazing and the fit is perfect. The Lekala skirt is even better than I could imagine. I'm utterly obsessed with it, it's so versatile. I can wear a shirt, t-shirt or jumper with it and it looks amazing.
Once again, thank you Mum Xxx.

Thank you Zara, that was lovely, miss you!


Thank you for reading xx Nicole







Sunday, April 8, 2018

Jedediah Jeans for Jed 2018

Six days a week (often seven) Jed wears work gear.

Work gear is usually good clothes that have been well worn and patched.
I am a #patchingninja. 
This time, how ever, his last two pairs of jeans were still in good nick but all his work clothes were stuffed.
So rather than sew work trousers (which would be stiff and uncomfortable for the first few wears) I passed his good ones down to work ones and made him some new 'good' ones.
My go to pattern for Jed?
The Jedediah trousers
Not actually a jeans pattern but they look pretty 'jean-ey'
Especially in heavy, rigid denim ($6/m from Eliza's of Sunshine) with heavy weight top stitching thread.
My existing pattern was already altered for Jed's short legs
#gnomesewing 
 The pocket stitching template is supplied with the pattern.
After my disastrous Liberty lawn pocket experience (they went to hole in weeks and required removing and replacing, no, I don't want to talk about it, thank you) I used a silky but strong cotton poplin from Eliza's of Sunshine left over from Zara's Christmas dress #scrapbusting and French seamed the pocket bags for extra strength.
The finished product.
Gnome sewing at its finest.
Comfortable, sturdy, well fitting jeans for my whiskery fellow.
~Jed's Verdict~
Perfectly tailored gnome trousers for my short arse stature.
Very comfortable.
To the point!

I am really pleased with this pattern. It is, physically a hard sew, with the heavy cloth and copious top stitching but considering what his favourite jeans cost and the last pairs did NOT last it is a workout I am willing to do.

I cannot recommend this pattern enough. From the sturdy pocket facings to the 'steam and ease' directions for the leg side seams.

Thanks for reading...
xx Nicole