Thursday, August 30, 2012

You Can't Make That Pattern up in That!

My first rule breaking(possibly eye aching)challenge.
The oliver+s sweet vintage look Croquet dress in........
Orange and Ivory printed stretch satin.
(Can someone please fan Ana Sofia,I think she fainted,Thank you)
My explanation for this choice?
Matilda chose it and it was 80c-nuff said!
So,what do you think?
Matilda thinks it is a winner!
I made the size 18-24 months size which is what Tildy measures as but it is a wee bit wide,I could probably size down.
I did lengthen to a size 4 and then hand sewed a narrow hem as I wanted it long enough to cover her knickers during active play.

I have a tutorial,the first part is predominately dress B and then I will fill in the 'gaps' for dress A.
I hope it isn't too confusing.
Back Bodice.

 Prepare the shoulder straps.
Pin them RIGHT sides together.
It can be helpful to mark the facing side.
Sew and press.
Trim the seams and press them towards the facing side.
Edge stitch the seam on the facing side.
Fold the strap WRONG sides together and press well.
Baste around the notched edges.
Matching notches pin the straps to the dress back.
Baste in place.
Following the pattern instructions attach a strip of interfacing to the back facing.
I decided to interface all of the satin facing for greater stability.
Using a pin,mark the opening slash.
Mark the slash line.
Following the pattern directions,mark the stitching lines.
Pin the back facing to the back dress bodice,right sides together,matching notches.

Following the pattern instructions stitch in place.
Stitch the first section with a normal stitch length.
Adjust your stitch length back to a 2 or lower.
Stitch the slash with this size stitch to help prevent fraying.

Press well.
Trim seams and cut the slash as close as you can to the bottom of the V without snipping the threads.
Trim the corners.
Turn the facing,gently poke the corners with a collar point and roll the seams to get a smooth finish.
Dampen the seam and press well to remove tucks.
Just keep pressing pressing pressing.
I chose to stitch my facing down,don't I always?
To make it extra sturdy I also edge stitched.
I didn't do the extra stitching with the satin version.
Pin and baste the side seams of the facing to the back.
I used one of my labels to secure the facing.
So elegant!
The Front Bodice.
I reversed the attachment as I wanted to hand sew the yoke in place.
Gather between the notches.
Pull up the threads to match the notches on the front yoke.
RIGHT sides together,pin and sew in place.
Make sure the notches are lined up.
Trim the seam and press gently.
Press the seam up towards the yoke.
Gently press from the right side.
Matching notches,pin the straps in place.
Press the seam allowance up on the yoke facing.
Matching notches,pin the facing to the yoke,sandwiching the straps between them.
Sew,press and trim the seam towards the yoke facing.
Edge stitch the YOKE FACING.
Pin the facing so that it cover the previous stitch line.
Hand sew in place.
Gently press.
Following the pattern,fold and press the sleeve hem.
The smaller size pattern is too small to hem as directed.
No biggie,just use your loaf!
The designer has suggested to me that this may be a drafting error on my behalf,so if yours works out-awesome!
I will need to check my pattern and see what I have done.

Gather the sleeves between the notches.
Pin the sleeves in place,matching notches and pulling up the threads to fit.
If you pin and stitch from the bodice side there is less chance of tucks whilst sewing.

Sew and neaten the seam.
Take the opportunity to press this seam well.
The end of the ironing board is extremely useful for this.
Pin the side seam,matching notches and unfolding the pre-pressed hem.
Sew,neaten and press well.
Press the side seam towards the back.
Re-fold the hem and press in place.
Pin in place.
Sew and press well.
Attaching the skirt.
Sew the sides seams of the skirt and press.
I like to stitch a folding line for the hem.
Fold along the stitch line.
Fold again to the desired hem length,press and pin in place.

I chose to hem at this point.
I hand sewed the hem and facings to attempt to 'posh up' the satin.
Gather the top of the skirt as directed.
Matching the notches and pulling up the threads pin the skirt top to the bodice bottom RIGHT sides together.

Sew together.
Neaten and press the seam well.
Press the seam up towards the bodice.
Again,take the opportunity to press this seam well.
Attaching the casing and bow.
For Tildy's version I used a ribbon instead of bias fabric.
Twice fold and press one end of the ribbon.
Starting at the marked point on the pattern pin the ribbon in place taking care not to stretch it.
Pin almost all the way around.
Leave a 'tail' just in case the ribbon or fabric stretches.
Starting at the folded edge of the ribbon slowly edge stitch the ribbon in place.
Working inside the garment can make this step easier.
Stop sewing about two inches from the end of the ribbon casing.
Fold,press and pin the remaining ribbon in place.
Finish sewing the casing.
Press the ribbon casing and then pin the top edge in place.
Sew and press again.
Cut the elastic to the desired length,there are some good tip for length in the pattern instructions.
Thread the elastic through the casing.
If you 'round' the edge of the elastic it will pass through the casing more smoothly.
Once threaded,pin the ends of the elastic and stitch securely.
Pull the elastic gently back into the casing.
Evenly distribute the elastic.
Tie a bow(or bow-wah as Lily would say)!
I use a hot butter knife to cut the ends of my ribbons.
Sew in place and there we have it!
One slinky,shiny Croquet dress.
What do you think?
Can I make this pattern in that fabric?
x N
Next-the extra bits for view A
PS I will show you the button closure then!