Thursday, August 30, 2012

You Can't Make That Pattern up in That!

My first rule breaking(possibly eye aching)challenge.
The oliver+s sweet vintage look Croquet dress in........
Orange and Ivory printed stretch satin.
(Can someone please fan Ana Sofia,I think she fainted,Thank you)
My explanation for this choice?
Matilda chose it and it was 80c-nuff said!
So,what do you think?
Matilda thinks it is a winner!
I made the size 18-24 months size which is what Tildy measures as but it is a wee bit wide,I could probably size down.
I did lengthen to a size 4 and then hand sewed a narrow hem as I wanted it long enough to cover her knickers during active play.

I have a tutorial,the first part is predominately dress B and then I will fill in the 'gaps' for dress A.
I hope it isn't too confusing.
Back Bodice.

 Prepare the shoulder straps.
Pin them RIGHT sides together.
It can be helpful to mark the facing side.
Sew and press.
Trim the seams and press them towards the facing side.
Edge stitch the seam on the facing side.
Fold the strap WRONG sides together and press well.
Baste around the notched edges.
Matching notches pin the straps to the dress back.
Baste in place.
Following the pattern instructions attach a strip of interfacing to the back facing.
I decided to interface all of the satin facing for greater stability.
Using a pin,mark the opening slash.
Mark the slash line.
Following the pattern directions,mark the stitching lines.
Pin the back facing to the back dress bodice,right sides together,matching notches.

Following the pattern instructions stitch in place.
Stitch the first section with a normal stitch length.
Adjust your stitch length back to a 2 or lower.
Stitch the slash with this size stitch to help prevent fraying.

Press well.
Trim seams and cut the slash as close as you can to the bottom of the V without snipping the threads.
Trim the corners.
Turn the facing,gently poke the corners with a collar point and roll the seams to get a smooth finish.
Dampen the seam and press well to remove tucks.
Just keep pressing pressing pressing.
I chose to stitch my facing down,don't I always?
To make it extra sturdy I also edge stitched.
I didn't do the extra stitching with the satin version.
Pin and baste the side seams of the facing to the back.
I used one of my labels to secure the facing.
So elegant!
The Front Bodice.
I reversed the attachment as I wanted to hand sew the yoke in place.
Gather between the notches.
Pull up the threads to match the notches on the front yoke.
RIGHT sides together,pin and sew in place.
Make sure the notches are lined up.
Trim the seam and press gently.
Press the seam up towards the yoke.
Gently press from the right side.
Matching notches,pin the straps in place.
Press the seam allowance up on the yoke facing.
Matching notches,pin the facing to the yoke,sandwiching the straps between them.
Sew,press and trim the seam towards the yoke facing.
Edge stitch the YOKE FACING.
Pin the facing so that it cover the previous stitch line.
Hand sew in place.
Gently press.
Following the pattern,fold and press the sleeve hem.
The smaller size pattern is too small to hem as directed.
No biggie,just use your loaf!
The designer has suggested to me that this may be a drafting error on my behalf,so if yours works out-awesome!
I will need to check my pattern and see what I have done.

Gather the sleeves between the notches.
Pin the sleeves in place,matching notches and pulling up the threads to fit.
If you pin and stitch from the bodice side there is less chance of tucks whilst sewing.

Sew and neaten the seam.
Take the opportunity to press this seam well.
The end of the ironing board is extremely useful for this.
Pin the side seam,matching notches and unfolding the pre-pressed hem.
Sew,neaten and press well.
Press the side seam towards the back.
Re-fold the hem and press in place.
Pin in place.
Sew and press well.
Attaching the skirt.
Sew the sides seams of the skirt and press.
I like to stitch a folding line for the hem.
Fold along the stitch line.
Fold again to the desired hem length,press and pin in place.

I chose to hem at this point.
I hand sewed the hem and facings to attempt to 'posh up' the satin.
Gather the top of the skirt as directed.
Matching the notches and pulling up the threads pin the skirt top to the bodice bottom RIGHT sides together.

Sew together.
Neaten and press the seam well.
Press the seam up towards the bodice.
Again,take the opportunity to press this seam well.
Attaching the casing and bow.
For Tildy's version I used a ribbon instead of bias fabric.
Twice fold and press one end of the ribbon.
Starting at the marked point on the pattern pin the ribbon in place taking care not to stretch it.
Pin almost all the way around.
Leave a 'tail' just in case the ribbon or fabric stretches.
Starting at the folded edge of the ribbon slowly edge stitch the ribbon in place.
Working inside the garment can make this step easier.
Stop sewing about two inches from the end of the ribbon casing.
Fold,press and pin the remaining ribbon in place.
Finish sewing the casing.
Press the ribbon casing and then pin the top edge in place.
Sew and press again.
Cut the elastic to the desired length,there are some good tip for length in the pattern instructions.
Thread the elastic through the casing.
If you 'round' the edge of the elastic it will pass through the casing more smoothly.
Once threaded,pin the ends of the elastic and stitch securely.
Pull the elastic gently back into the casing.
Evenly distribute the elastic.
Tie a bow(or bow-wah as Lily would say)!
I use a hot butter knife to cut the ends of my ribbons.
Sew in place and there we have it!
One slinky,shiny Croquet dress.
What do you think?
Can I make this pattern in that fabric?
x N
Next-the extra bits for view A
PS I will show you the button closure then! 


  1. Yes you CAN make the pattern in that FABRIC ... no matter how LOUD THE FABRIC, the outcome is terrific ....and shiny too!

    1. Thank you Deb.
      It was fun to sew and quite a challenge to work with the slippery stretchy satin.
      I originally planned to use some scarlet vintage grosgrain ribbon but when I found the pewter double sided satin ribbon it was love at first sight.
      The Twins dressed her for a Netball dinner,in this,over a woollen spencer and dark denim Raven pants with her brown suede boots.
      It looked great!
      xx N

  2. So then, is the size 4 length only on the skirt? I must say, one of the reasons I wasn't enamored with this pattern is that an exaggerated drop waist isn't so flattering on my girls. Where the waist hits on your version is more my speed. The dress looks great!

    1. Yes Cindy,the bodice is size 18-24 months. It does hitch up with wear and sits where her waist would be.
      The extra length is nice for play.
      Thank you!
      xx N

  3. I think what Cindy said is why I didn't like it either. I couldn't put my finger on it.

    I love this one and YES you can make that pattern in that fabric!

    But why I really commented was to say: OMG!!! How do we have the same iron? Is yours new? I got mine a month ago.

    1. Thank you Karen!

      My iron is about 2 months old.....does yours have a crack down one side where your naughty 15 year old knocked it of the cupboard throwing his footy in the house?
      I love this iron soooooooo much I went back and purchased another to put in the cupboard.
      It was well priced too,under $100.
      xx N

    2. Sorry Lotta,why I typed Karen I have no idea!
      Your avatars are similar I think....

  4. Absolutely you can make this pattern in that fabric! I love it!

    1. Thank you Lara,its pretty funky but then so is my next ''You Can't Do That'' challenge!
      xx N

  5. How in the world did I miss your other croquet?! I third Cindy, I like your waist placement better. And I could just take Tildy home with me, she is just too cute, just sayin. ;)

    1. Thank you Brittney.
      It has been too cold to make Liddy model it for a photo.
      Tilly would come for a visit in a heart beat!
      xx N

  6. I saw this in the Flickr group and commented there, but I just have to comment again, because this version KILLS me with it's cuteness! It is so perfect! I would never have thought of this fabric combination, but it is so fabulous! It really reminds me of the 20s flapper style dresses that are all the rage now. I LOVE it!

    1. Awww,Thank you Brittany!
      It does have a 'House of Elliot' thing going on,doesn't it?
      xx N
      PS All the hits on your blog are me showing my hubby your reno's!

  7. Sweet Miss M seems to have inherited the same fashion "vision" ability as the rest of the family! Love this one. xx

    1. Thank you Susanne!
      We do like our clothes.
      Its a fun fabric,I guess you have to keep things in Context.
      xx N

  8. I love it. My kid would too -- she's all about a satiny feel for clothes.

    1. Thank you,all her little friends were 'stroking' her.
      xx N

  9. I love Tildy's dress - I really like the fabric!
    Timely tute - thank you Nicole :-)

  10. Oooh,what fabric are you using? The Sarah Jane? So cute!
    Thank you!
    xx N

  11. I think this is inspired!! It isn't really about the fabric and pattern, but more about your creativity, your eye for colour and your skilful sewing - You could make any pattern and any fabric work together, in my humble opinion :-)

  12. Thank you Angela,what a seriously kind thing to say!
    It is fun to 'break the rules' even if they are self imposed ones!
    xx N

  13. Wow, Nicole! You did it again!
    I just love both versions to bits (Miss M, included of course)!
    It really doesn't matter which fabrics you/your girls pick, everything you do is always (I really mean Always) stunning!!
    After 3 weeks away from my sewing machine and with limited acess to Internet (hope to get even this weekend) I can't wait to try this pattern.
    Thank you for yet another awe-inspiration!
    Oh yes, I do need to get out of my confort zone more often :)

    (ps. I would welcome a fan but just because it's extremelly hot here. Tildy's pick was amazing and quite a bargain - one need to love that as well).

  14. Thank you Ana Sofia and you are awesome for letting me use you in my blog. I love a girl with a sense of humour!

    I did think of you constantly when sewing this,only because your choices are always so perfect!
    Don't change a thing!
    xx N

  15. I think it's smashing! But you know, orange is one of my favorite colors. ;-)

  16. Love your new avatar Inder!
    Thank you,she loves orange too!
    xx N