Tuesday, September 25, 2018

Oliver+S School Bus T-shirts

Everyone needs basics.
The Oliver+S School Bus t-shirt is a great example.
The above tees are made from wool jersey from Eliza Fabrics
They were all around the $3/m but there was the odd flaw in the fabric.
The pink, heavier ribbed jersey was a bit too stretchy. The Deer+Doe Plantain t-shirts I made Elsa and I are way too big in the neck to wear.
The School Bus t-shirts with the smaller neck are perfect.
If I purchased the ribbed stuff again I would keep it for leggings.
The aubergine wool jersey was perfect!
It is the same cloth I used for Hugo's Strathcona Henley
I added vinyl elbow patches.
I used the neck binding method so there are no raw edges. I top stitch with the wave stitch on my machine. It is super stretchy and I find gives me the best result on any seam that will get a lot of pressure like children's hems and swimwear.
Last year, when we went to Melbourne, we visited the Zara store and Tilly fell in love with a sequinned t-shirt.
I was going to get it for her but it was a really crappy t-shirt.
When we got home we checked out eBay and found this owl 
I machine stitched it in place, using a narrow zigzag, matching the thread colours, before I sewed the side seams.
I bound the back neck with my labelling tape.
Makes for a stable neck and looks cool.
The pattern is also my go-to for pyjamas.
(Paired with the Playtime leggings with a cuff)
This time I used a basic ribbing neck and cuff with a cute Van Ikke transfer on the front.
(Fabric is an organic cotton from the remnant bin at Spotlight)
Another School Bus t-shirt, another Van Ikke transfer.
The grey knit is from the $1/m bin at Eliza Fabrics. It is thick and soft, just the job for a pj top. It was quite narrow but I was able to get two tees, a size 8 for Tildy and a size 12 for Lidia (with extra sleeve length) from 2m.
This time paired with the Sleepover pyjama bottoms
Fabric is cheapo flannelette from Eliza Fabrics. $3/m and has washed up surprisingly fluffy and thick.
I do my cuff as a whole, rather than two pieces and attach it from behind and top stitch it in place so that there are no raw edges.
I attach me piping to the cuff before sewing it into a loop.

~Tildy's Verdict~
I like wool t-shirts because they are warm and I can wear them again. (More than one wear NMK)
I like the patterned pjs because the pattern is cool and funky.
I like the other ones because the bottoms are fluffy on the inside and the animal print matches the picture of the animals on the top.
~My Verdict~
I was rather honoured when Liesl Gibson asked me (among many, many others I am sure) what I thought about her producing a t-shirt pattern.
I actually tried to discourage her. I felt there were a gazillion t-shirt patterns already, many free, would people be willing to pay for O+S prices for a knit top?
I was wrong, she was right and I am so glad.
It is extremely well drafted and sews up beautifully.
I have an Ikea trolley (my cutting trolley) that rolls around my sewing room. The top shelf has scissors, rulers, pins, chalk andall the notions I need and the bottom shelf has ribbing in neutral colours but the middle shelf has my 'go-to' patterns that never get put away.
This pattern, in both sizes, lives there.

Thank you for reading xx N

Saturday, September 22, 2018

Little Things To Sew Bear Hood ~Costume Sewing

Cleaning up my laptop I found this little beauty.
Last year, Matilda volunteered me to sew costumes for her Presentation Night group.
They were doing a dance to...
What does the Fox Say?
Tilly asked if I could make onesies.
I did consider it, I had made Hugo a fish onesie when his class preformed the same song.
Then Tilly said her group were doing a 30 second cut of the song...

I decided I wasn't sewing five onesies for a half a minute on stage, I counter offered hoods.
The bear hood from The Little Things to Sew book
Frog goes croak....
The hood is sewn from faux suede (from a curtain swatch book given to me), it is lined with a scrap of green satin.
The eyes are damaged pingpong balls. I cut a circle of heavy white satin, appliquéd a smaller circle of black vinyl as a pupil and then hand gathered the satin circle over the balls and hand sewed them in place.
It ties with green-y/gold satin ribbon with a few gold pailettes for razzle dazzle.
How will you speak to that horse?
The hood is more of the faux suede but this time with a faux fur middle to represent mane.
I made longer, pointier ears and interfaced the pink satin lining so they stood up.
It is lined with brown satin and tied with gold ribbon.
Dog goes woof...
Constructed from the same faux suede and lined with satin, I drafted over sized ears that flopped up and down as the child moves.
I used a mix of pailettes to simulate spots.
The black with aqua dotty ribbon gave a splash of colour.
Cow goes moo....
(please excuse the screenshot from the video)
The cow hood was a fun sew. I used cow print flannelette which I interfaced to give it some body.
The ears are lined with satin, interfaced so they stand up. The horns are made with scraps from the horse hood, stuffed with wadding.
The black and white ribbon echoes the cow print and I found a big bell to use as a cow bell.
I lined it with white satin.
What does the fox say?
Tilly was the fox.
I used red canvas for the main hood and outer ears. 
The eye patches are cream faux suede with black vinyl eyes appliquéd in place.
I added a few pailettes to catch the lights.
It is lined with red satin and tied with red satin ribbon.
Miss Ballard suggested they pair the hood with plain t-shirts.
I whipped up Tilly a School Bus t-shirt
It is bitter sweet to see my Mum's comment on the photo, I miss her.

~Tilly's Verdict~
I love the little sequins on the sides, it just adds a little bit of cuteness.
They all were cute but I had a thing for the fox hood.
They all are cute and I think my Mum is so clever to be able to sew them and I wish I could make clothes and hats and little things like purses.
Little Things To Sew
~My Verdict~
Like all Oliver+S patterns this sews up really well. All the notches match and, even with all my additions, they took a straight hour to sew.
I think I would have spent an hour cutting each hood out, with brain storming and fabric hunting.
A great little pattern. 

Thank you for reading ... xx N

Saturday, September 15, 2018

Strathcona Henley by Thread Theory for Hugo

It was about time I revisited this pattern
I previously sewed this for Hugo in September, 2015.
I didn't get around to blogging it as I was not that impressed.
The shoulders were really wide and 'Star Trek-y', the fit was a bit baggy.
I used the heavy waffle knit for the packet and it was fat and bulky.
Hugo stuck it in his 'work drawer' and we didn't think too much more about it.

Moving on three years and Hugo had a Uni pub crawl to attend and he wanted to be neat but didn't want to wreck his nice clothes.
He pulled this top out and looking at it on, with a critical eye, I could see it just needed some sleeve cap removed.

I pinched out two inches from the shoulder and the sleeve cap tapering in back to nothing by the middle of the sleeve edge.

It worked well so I altered the pattern.
For my next version, I used some aubergine wool jersey from Eliza Fabrics.
From 2 m, ($3/m) I was able to cut this top and two O+S School Bus tee's , one for Tilly and one for Trixie.
As the fabric was very stretchy I really shaped the sides in, fitting it on Hugo before hemming.
I had learnt my lesson and used a woven for the placket. The last tiny pieces of cotton velvet, from The Drapery , leftover from Tilly's dungarees 
and Trixie's skirt
I also didn't interface and I love interfacing but I knew how thick this was going to end up.
I bound the neck edge with my labelling tape.
It looks good and adds stability.
I used silver press studs so I didn't have to do button holes and because they look good!
~Hugo's Verdict~
Coming into winter I realised I did not have any warm, casual tops. I remembered the Henley that Mum had made me and realised it was just what I was after.
It is casual but still smart, perfect for catching up with mates for a drink.
Made from wool they are also really warm. I can't wait until Mum makes me some more.
The aubergine colour goes well with the rest of my wardrobe.

~My Verdict~
I like this pattern but for Hugo, it still needs some work. I think I need to take a bit more from the shoulders if using a soft knit.
I have since made Hugo another, in a thick wool knit,  navy with a white fleck $3/m from Eliza Fabrics, with a wool/denim placket and that one fits, nice and snug.
I like the placket and the long, self fabric cuff is a nice RTW detail.
The neck band can be finished square or tapered (which I chose) I like to turn that down and top stitch it in place or it could be a little bulky.
Unless you are sewing for someone with huge shoulders I would advise sizing back. This is the size small (one size smaller available) and Jed could squeeze into before I altered it. The arms are also very long. I could have left the cuff off but I wanted it so I shortened the sleeve.
Ultimately though, with a little more removed from the sleeve cap, it will be another go to pattern for Hugo, something I can sew without fitting.
Thread Theory are a really nice pattern company.

Thank you for reading xx N

Friday, September 14, 2018

Jedediah Pants for Hugo

Hugo has several fabric requests on our last Melbourne trip.
One of those was several pairs of slim fitting trousers, stretchy fabric, navy or dark navy.
Jedediah pants  seemed like a good fit.
Always a good sew
Hugo has short legs like his dad #gnomesewing.
I had already shortened the pattern, at the shortening line, by a good whack.
As he wanted a 'skinny leg' I trimmed a cm off the side seams of the front leg panels. 
I also added a inch to the hem, continuing the taper, to create a 'tight ankle'.
The fabric is a cotton sateen, $6/m. I purchased 5 metres of French navy (pictured above) which is so dark I sewed it with black thread.
From that I was able to cut three pairs of Jedidiah's.
A pair of Finch shorts for Tildy (to be blogged)
And a pair of Peridot pants , also for Tildy (also to be blogged)
I did have to omit the back pockets but I checked with Hugo and he didn't mind.
I also purchased 5 metre of navy blue, stretch drill $6/m,from which I was just able to cut three pairs, with back pockets but no scraps.
I was pretty confused as both fabrics were the same width.
~Mystery solved, I was bemusing aloud and Lidia said there was a bit more on the roll that the owner threw in.~
~Hugo's Verdict~
I am currently nearing the end of my 2nd year of studying the three year undergraduate bachelor of Medical Science at Flinders University in Adelaide.
My hope is, after completing this degree, that I will be accepted into the Graduate entry Doctorate of Medicine (4 years) here at Flinders. If it all goes well, in 10 years time, I hope to be a rural GP.

I like to dress smartly when I am attending Uni. I do like looking presentable but at the same time I feel it helps me study, productively. It is like putting on my work gear.

The Jedediah trousers Mum has sewn me do just that and I feel really dapper. They will also come in handy when I, hopefully, get into Med where there is dress code particularly when students are on the wards.
~My Verdict~
Hugo is becoming trickier to sew for, he has a girlfriend now so he may want less of 'Mum's gear'.
He is not home as often so fittings are impossible.
I tend to stick to tried and true patterns that don't need adjustment.
Jedediah pants are my go to trouser patterns for Jed and Hugo.
The pattern goes together beautifully. The pocket facing constructs a strong and tidy pocket. (Just make sure you use a decent weight fabric for the bags, French seams will increase the strength too)

Thank you for reading xxx N

Loveralls by Petit a Petit for Lidia

When I take the trouble to draft a pattern I try and use it several times.
Why not?
It saves time, you can check the fit with an existing garment and it is usually a quicker sew.
So I made Liddy another two pairs of Loveralls by Petit a Petit
Liddy is 14 1/2 and fits the size 12 with length added to the leg.
Both Lids and Tildy still wear their original pairs

Although Tildy's have needed some work...
Tildy's shiny ones are still going strong.
This denim from Spotlight has patina-ed up nicely and I actually picked up a bit more when it was on clearance.
Back is February, for her birthday, I made Liddy a white, stretch cotton sateen pair.
The fabric was from Eliza Fabrics, around the $4/m price.
From 2 metres I cut these and a pair of Class Picnic shorts (to be blogged) for Tilly.
I added all the extra pockets and trims.
At Zara's suggestion I went with black plastic buttons rather than metal hardware.
This bad boys have seen some Napisan action so she was right!
(In my experience, metal buttons do not like soaking)

While the pattern was out I sewed her up some black ones.
#Ninjacut with some dungarees for Trixie
This fabric was another purchase from Eliza Fabris but this time from the $2 bin.
To be honest, it smelt rank, very inky and chemically pong-y.
After a few washes and air dries, it was fine though.
I left off the extra pockets and trims, even my ninja skillz were not up to that challenge, and used metal hardware.
I also had to use a cotton gingham for the facings.
Lidia rocks overalls.
She actually looks better in them then jeans as she is so slim.
I think dungarees are such a clever in between type garment.
Very practical but still very snappy.
Sewn in a stretch woven they are super comfortable too.
The white version have a summery feel.
Super cool.
Super gorgeous.
Thank you for reading xx N