Thursday, February 9, 2012

Fortified Finch-A Lining Tutorial

Its Liddy's birthday on Monday and she will be 8.
As usual,I asked her to choose a outfit for a gift.

After much pattern pulling and fabric frisking she decided.....
Clever Charlottes Finch top and shorts made up in some pretty Denyse Schmidt I tracked down here.

As we are coming into Autumn I gently suggested she consider a  linen or wool for the shorts but she desperately wanted the cotton print.
The solution seemed to suggest lining them.

I have made the shorts before.
And blogged the construction here.
This tute is just for the added lining.

I went with my standard lining;fabric cotton rich poplin.
Cut a second set of shorts front and back pieces making sure to transfer all the markings and notches.
Sew the front and back seams of the shorts main and lining. Trim the seam,clip the curves and press to one side.
If you press the seams on both the lining and main in the same direction when they are put together the seam allowance will be staggered.
Sew the side seams of the main and lining and then press them open.
Sew the inner leg seam and stagger the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Press the inside leg seam open.
Slip the main shorts into the lining wrong side together.
Match the side seams and notches.
Baste the waist and legs opening to keep the pieces together.
Treating the lining and the main fabric as one,fold the pleats in place.
I topstitched the pressed edge to help keep the two fabrics pieces together.
Repeat with the other pleats on both fronts.
I omitted the pleats on the back and gathered instead as I knew I would have to pull the back in tightly to fit skinny Miss Lidia. I thought the pleats would be lost in all the puffiness. 
The inside view.
Carry on with the rest of the construction as per instructions.
So far so good!
Fortified indeed-they stand up by themselves!
Neat and Tidy Heidi!
These could be reversible. Plain linen one side-printed the other?
Wooden buttons sewn on with cream embroidery floss finish the look.

Liddy is a skinny minnie moo so I drafted the size 3 and lengthened to a 5. As I mentioned previously I left out the back pleats and gathered instead. I also did a double row of elastic at the back instead of single(purely because I like the look of it).

Can't wait to show you the whole outfit!
x N


  1. oh, oh, oh, I LOVE these!! Thanks for showing how to line them...the thought of having 2 pairs of shorts from one pair is exciting.:)

  2. These are fab!! I can't wait till I get my pattern!

  3. They turned out really, really well, Nicole! Lovely fabric choice for her, too.

  4. I love that fabric, the shorts are really beautiful. Ella is skinny too. She class picnic shorts are size 6-12 months and she is 4 years old. I made the size 2 shorts in this pattern (as that was the smallest) and pulled them really tight!

  5. Thank you Girls,I hope she likes them.

  6. Beautiful shorts for Lidia; you've sold me on that pattern for sure. And I loved the added random shot of Matilda!

  7. Thank you Margaret. I love watching Tilly as I sew,she takes no notice,I guess it is part of her day?

    x N

  8. Just so nice with your fabric choice. I read your tutorial, for the beautiful black shorts, to look at your waistband. I am sewing the Raven pants and the waistband calls for the same method but it is a button waistband just along the back waist. Do you have a suggestion on how to sew a button waistband that does not have the elastic or buttons visible? I'm also concerned about stitching in the ditch along the bottom of a waistband that it looks good on the outside but wonky on the inside,not straight. But concerned that hand sewing will not stand up to the wear.

    1. Thank you Kim!

      I have not made the Raven pants yet as we are still very much in summer but I plan to do so soon.
      Off the top of my head why not try my alternative to the button elastic in my Chickadee skirt tutorial. The elastic is hidden inside the casing.

      As for the waist band,I generally put mine on back to front but as I have not yet made this pattern I am not sure that method will work...

      You have definitely given me something to think about while making them.
      Sorry not to be more help.
      x N

  9. Another way to tackle it is to make a feature of the button.
    Leave an opening on the right side of the waistband and sew the elastic into little tabs at each end(not unlike the tabs on the Finch shorts) sew a button hole into the tab,several buttons on the waistband,and then you can adjust the waist with the elastic still in the casing and the natty little tab on view.

  10. Thank you, I looked at your Chickadee tutorial and that is exactly how the directions state to sew the Raven pants button elastic back waist. I like how you used the dark elastic, it really looks less obvious. I ordered the kit, so I am using the teal corduroy and it came with white button elastic so I think I will go and try to find some black. I would love to try your second idea too, you are so clever. I can't wait to see what you do with the pattern, it has three pocket options!

  11. I am glad to be of some help Kim.
    It was midnight when I answered you so I apologise if it was a little unclear.