Thursday, April 19, 2012

Sketchbook Shirt-A Tutorial part 2

Time to finish our shirt!
Pre-cut the placket split(I don't stay stitch around the split) place the RIGHT side of the placket strip to the WRONG side of the sleeve,and hold in place with a single pin.
If your fabric doesn't have clear right/wrong side consider marking it to avoid confusion.
Start sewing the placket to the sleeve using a narrow seam.
Sew almost to the middle of the slash opening it up as you sew.
Continue to sew the placket to the split smoothing the fabric as you go.
Take your time with this step.
After sewing,snip into the stitch line BUT NOT THROUGH IT at the bottom of the split.
Press the seam towards the placket and then fold a narrow hem on the other side of the placket.
Fold the placket over and pin in place,easing any tucks at the bottom of the split.
Slowly topstitch,you may find it easier to just use the hand wheel and not your foot pedal.
Press well and then fold the placket in half.
Mark an angle across the bottom of the placket.
And sew across.
Press the placket well.
There may be a few tiny tucks at the bottom of the split,they won't be that visible-I promise!
Pin and baste one side of the placket towards the wider side of the sleeve edge.
Sew two lines of gathering thread between the notches.
If you are sewing with a stretch woven you can skip this step and stretch the sleeve to fit.
Matching notches,pin the sleeves in place pulling up the threads to fit.
Make sure the sleeve plackets are towards the back.
Sew the sleeves,it can be helpful to sew from the shirt side to avoid tucks.
Finish the seams and press towards the sleeve.
Pin sew the side seams,matching notches and the underarm seam.
Neaten the seam.
Press the seams towards the back.
Getting there....
Ready to hem......
Place the two fronts together and trim them evenly.
This step is very important for an accurate finish.
Stitch a hemming guide line along the bottom of the shirt.
Fold along the guide line starting at the centre back.
Then fold the front edge.
Lastly fold the hem at the side seam.
Folding it in stages helps create the perfect curved hem.
Fold again making a narrow hem.
Take care with the front to keep it even. If it seems a little fat to sew-a little tap with a hammer will soften  the fabric and make it easier to sew.
Pin and sew the hem,take your time and stop and lift the presser foot if things get a bit squidgy.

Pre-fold and press the cuff pieces.
Then interface the cuffs.
You may find it easier to interface after pre-folding-I do!
Pin the RIGHT side of the cuff (the interfaced edge) to the WRONG side of the shirt sleeve leaving a seam allowance either side of the split.
Check the cuff size on your child particularly if you are sewing for a chubby baby!
I then fold the pleats to fit the cuff after checking it for fit.
Sew in place.
It can be helpful to sew on the inside.

This is my method to make the cuffs-the pattern has different instructions,choose which one suits you.
I shan't mind,I promise!
Fold the seam allowance of the cuff towards the cuff piece.
Fold the other edge making a mitred corner to create a neat finish.

Fold the cuff piece and pin in place.
Finger press and then press the cuff in place making sure the stitching is covered.
Pin in place.
Topstitch the cuff.
A second row of stitching looks snappy!
Is it mine Mummy?
All that snappiness in the size of a shoebox.
Mark the buttons and button holes.
I stick mine on with clear tape and then sew them on the machine.
They probably won't be used but a double button looks nice.

Finish off the buttons and button holes.
Remove the basting for the centre back pleat and.....
One seriously cute,very professional looking shirt.
Perfect collar.
Surely you have a little person that deserves one of these?
The End he he he.


  1. You can sew buttons on a machine?! How did I not know this? I have been saving my button sewing until I sit to watch tv at night with the husband and stitching them until I felt like screaming. (Last round I had 20 buttons to sew). Thanks again for the tutorial! I really need to make Jack one...

  2. Thank you, lovely one! You've inspired me to make the boys some new ones....

  3. You can absolutely sew buttons on with a machine. Pull the threads through to the back and knot them,they are very sturdy and so quick to do!
    Thank you Brittany.
    x N

    You are always so nice to me Justine!
    Thank you,I look forward to seeing them.

  4. Fabulous as usual! I am still too chicken to try your machine-button magic...

    1. It is so easy Claire,practice a few first if you are nervous.
      Thank you for your compliments.
      x N

  5. Replies
    1. My absolute pleasure,I hope it wasn't too late to be helpful?
      x N

  6. I was working on one for my soon-to-be 5 years old's birthday and got stuck!! Then I found your sketchbook flickr set, and you had this awesome blog post linked, and you saved me!!! Woohoo!! Now I can finish the shirt!! Thank you Nicole!!! :)

  7. He can't be 5 Emily,eeep!

    I am so pleased it was helpful.
    xx N
    PS I was only giggling the other day about the night we found the new Lisette patterns. Do you remember?