Saturday, December 10, 2011

The Kestrel Coat-A Tutorial and a Giveaway Part Two

Hey-ho off we go......
(Don't forget to leave a comment to enter the giveaway)

Following the instructions,gather the sleeve tops between the notches.

Gather between the notches on the lower sleeve pieces.

They will look like this.

Match the notches and pull up the gather threads on the lower sleeve piece until it matches the bottom of the upper sleeve piece.
Knot the gathering threads so the gathers can be evenly distributed without the threads  pulling out.

Ready to sew!

Stitch with the gathers on top. It will make it easier to avoid tucks and keep the gathers even.

Following the instructions,clip the upper sleeve in the seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open and press well taking care not to squash the gathers.

Press well again and then leave the sleeve to rest and cool.

The sleeve lining.

Following the instructions,sew the sleeve side seams taking care to match the seams.

Charlotte has many suggestions for pressing the sleeves open.
As I do not have a sleeve board(Hint hint Jed) I press one side back against the sleeve.

I then flip the sleeve over and do the same with the other side.

Which leaves this result.

And results in a nice open seam.
Pop it to one side to cool and set.

Four little sleeves are we...

Following the instructions,set in the sleeves,matching the under arm sleeve and notches and easing out the gathers.
The sleeves are eased in ,they are not overly gathered or puffy!.

Stitch the seam ''inside the tunnel'' to make it easier.
Check for tucks after sewing.

Following the instructions,clip the seam either side of the under arm seam.

Press the seam well.

I pressed the seam of the coat towards the body of the coat.

And the lining seam towards the sleeve to stagger the bulk.

Following the instructions pin the lining to the coat taking care not to catch the sleeves.
Leave an 8 inch opening at the centre back for turning.

The coat goes together beautifully,the notches allow the neck tie to open up and pin the coat body with minimal wiggling.

When sewing,stick to your seam allowance and pivot at the point that they meet.
It works-trust me!

Pivot here!
Clever Charlotte.

Use plenty of pins!

Lift the presser foot as you pivot leaving the needle in.

Check the front lengths and adjust if necessary.
Charlotte reminds us very nicely.

Press well and trim the seam allowances.
I like to trim off my corners taking care not to cut the stitches.

Consider sewing down to the seam allowance,it gives a neater turn.

Turn the coat carefully through the opening and gently push out the corners.

Roll the lining gently so that it is slight pulled in and the main coat fabric shows on the edge.
Press well.

Pin the collar at the neck to keep it even.

Fold the seam allowance of the coat up.

Fold the lining seam allowance slightly smaller.

Pin in place.

Take particular care pressing the collar-to-coat seam.

As I wanted to top stitch from the coat side I decided to baste the seam allowance first.

I removed this basting stitch after top stitching.

Following the instructions,top stitch the coat edge.
I adjusted my needle position and placed my foot at the edge of the coat  to sew an accurate width.

Loverly jubbly!

Meet Rocky the Snowman
A sock stuffed with rocks-not so cuddly!

I jumped a step and sew my sleeve hems first.
Carefully press the coat hem following Charlottes instructions.
I did mine slightly narrower to gain some length for Liddy's limbs!

Repeat with the lining fabric but slightly narrower.
Charlotte will give you the measurements in the instructions.

Matching the seams,pin in place and sew.
I like to sew ''inside the tunnel'' with small openings.

Rinse and Repeat!

Lidia likes BIG buttons so we had a fiddle with placement.
Sticky tape is very handy!

Mark and make the button holes.
I have found when making big button holes it is best to make them on the small side as they do stretch!

Sew on the buttons.
I like to use embroidery thread. It gives a nice texture and sheen and is very strong!

Complimentary label sewn in-its a beautiful thing!

The Kestrel Coat.

A fabulous look for a minimal sew.

Look at those beautiful gathers.
Look at the line of the garment.

Look at the perfect inside finish!


Now for the nitty gritty kitty.
I made the 4 for Lidia as she measured for the 3 to 4 last time I measured her(whoops) upon re-measuring her her sizing in more 4-5 now.

The 4 fits her perfectly but I could have added 1/2 inch to the sleeves.
Liddy will be 8 in February and is  129 cm's tall. (51 inches)
Glancing at the pattern sheet a size 5 cut to size 7 length would make a lovely overcoat for her.

I find Clever Charlotte patterns accurate to body measurements but add some length if your child is skinny.
I personally do not have a problem with the roomy fit-my pattern will get more use that way.

The instructions are clear and to the point. I love the interfacing pattern piece and the fact the garment is lined rather then fussing with a facing.
It is a child's garment after all not a 10 year wardrobe staple for an adult.

Please leave a comment to enter the giveaway to win your very own copy of the Kestrel Coat. Thank you Charlotte!

The draw will take place on the 18 th of December and I will post after Christmas to miss the crazy season.
Funny things happen to pattern parcels in the festive season!
But we will save that story for later.

Good Luck!
x N


  1. The coat is so wonderful, Nicole! And those big buttons are divine!! Miss L has a good eye towards the details.:)

  2. Thank you Cindy!
    I will pass that on.

    This coat is so nice to sew I want to make Tildy one straight away!
    x N

  3. That wool is just gorgeous!! What a lucky girl.

  4. Thank you Camille.
    The best thing is that it is a 2m+ uneven remnant and I only used the uneven piece to make the coat.

    Good Luck in the draw!

  5. Just stunning, and I'm so glad you made it in a light color (selfishly) as I can really see all the wonderful details. Would love to give her a big hug in her fabulous, cuddly coat!

  6. What a great coat. So pretty and stylish and as a Mom knowing it is so warm and made with love makes it even better. Great job Nicole.

  7. That's fantastic.. oh ho, now I have to buy another pattern!!

  8. You don't need to enter me in the draw since I already own this lovely pattern, but I just wanted to say what a great job you've done, Nicole. Thanks for all the tips!

  9. beautiful work as usual. and i love the big buttons!

  10. Thank you Girls,and good luck!

    Susanne,I am going to pop you in the draw any way. If your name comes out first,I will send you a treasure!

  11. Thank you Trinh and good luck!
    x N

  12. I wild crazy love it. She is so adorable modeling the taped on buttons.

    Would it be greedy to enter this drawing, too? If not, sign me up!

  13. Nicole, I really like this. I may have to make this for Clara's coat next year and only do the School Days for Oliver.

  14. It is so lovely all finished. It looks so buttery, in every way!

  15. Thank you Karen,Sandi and Millie.

    Not greedy at all Karen,you may be two times lucky!

    Good Luck!
    x N

  16. Thank you for the opportunity! The coat you made is very beautiful.

  17. My pleasure Sophie.
    Thank you and good luck!
    x N

  18. It's stunning, Nicole. I love those ever-so-slightly puffy sleeves, and the lining is perfect. I may have to go back and add some to my clever charlotte order.

  19. What and see if you win Spoony!
    Or do you mean the beautiful Tula Pink?
    Thank you
    xx N

  20. I love the big buttons and will be keeping that in mind. She's gorgeous and looks so pleased!

    Same as Susanne, I own the pattern so no need to toss my name in the hat. I will consider my prize this fabulous tutorial!

  21. wow - this coat and its details are fabulous. loving that collar!!!

  22. This coat is beautiful; good point about it being a garment for a child rather than a ten year coat for an adult...thanks for the tutorial!

  23. My oh my but she is stunning in that outfit! I didn't really like this pattern until now. Such a beautiful coat (and beautiful model) She looks so grown up with her hair tied back!

  24. Darling coat...I love the colors you used!

  25. this is a great coat! i especially like the way it hangs from the back view!

  26. Nicole, it's absolutely smashing! The fabric is perfect and it's so beautifully done. I would love to make it for my daughter too. Thanks for the chance!

  27. Lovely,lots of names!
    Good Luck!

    Melani,you are too sweet for words

  28. Beautiful! I would love to be entered in the giveaway.

  29. You did a wonderful job! And thank you for the incredibly thorough tutorial.

  30. Thank you Victoria,Lesley and Liz.

    Good luck!

    x N

  31. So lovely. I'm tempted to get this pattern just so I can replicate the collar on some other shirts.

  32. Beautiful coat Nicole!! I am so keen to dabble in clever charlotte patterns now. Will have to get ready for Brisbanes winter next year......

  33. Oh - while i think of it, I would love to see you sewing a few more outfits for yourself - perhaps more lisette or collette ?? I gained so much inspiration from seeing your lisette outfits. Will the school holidays give you a bit more time ??? xx

  34. It is fabulous isn't it Johanna?

    Thank you Chantal,I do hope to do more Lisette sewing.
    The lovely Johanna(see above)sent me patterns AND fabric and I need to get to both!

    Thank you Melody!

    Good Luck!
    x N

  35. What a gorgeous coat! I love that you chose a happy color for the cold, bleak months. And the buttons - perfection! I would love to make this for my little lady.

  36. Thank you so much!
    I will pop you in the draw.

    x N

  37. Nicole- I love the tape for the button placement tip! I never thought to do that and my buttons are always lined up screwy. I will also have to consider the fancier thread for sewing them on- it looks really nice!

  38. The giveaway is now closed.
    Thank you to all who entered.

    x N