Saturday, December 8, 2012

I hope it has a happy ending.......

Costumes  completed.

On with the fun stuff!
Zara has requested a very fitted bodice full skirted party dress for Christmas.
I think the oliver+s FairyTale will be just the job.

Now,my Twins are pretty canny. They can read a line drawing on a pattern packet well but Zara was a wee bit concerned it may be a bit babyish.
After all,she is 13!
Once I showed her this version,she was more then happy for me to proceed. 

It is recommended to sew a muslin before cutting out your 'good' fabric for the dress as the bodice is very fitted.
After measuring Zara I cut the size 7 with the length of the 12.
That seemed a bit hinky to me but that is what a muslin is for!
I use a white calico for my muslin.
I went with the size 12 darts as that was the length I drafted.
When you sew a muslin you actually work on the right side as most bodies are uneven.
For a first fit I was pretty happy with the front.
The armsicles (I am taking the pee here) were a bit firm and the neck needed lowering but pretty good!
I basted the darts in place and re-marked the lines.
If you draw on the basting that will give you the new stitching lines when you come to unpick the muslin.
The front bodice,darts basted,ready for the next step.

Now,I said the front looked pretty good....
But the back needed some work.
I decided to cut a size 12 back with size 7 armsicles.
A better fit around the waist but no go across the shoulders.
So I added some fabric to the centre back seam to give me some more fabric to play with.
This worked really well and we were able to get a good fit.
I draw in my stitching line between my pins on both sides.
Then I just join the dot-to-dot!
By marking the seam allowances it gives an idea of the finished bodice.
Next up I added the seam allowance by measuring and marking the 5/8'' at regular increments.
I also trimmed the waist back to suit Zara's high waist and design choice.
I may or may not have got slightly distracted at this stage,sigh......
And there we have it.
A perfect fitting bodice for Zara.
In less time then it took me to listen to my new Jesus Christ SuperStar DVD.
Ready to unpick and start the dress.
I Can't Wait.

xx N


  1. I will be touched if Miss M lets me sew for her at 13. Great job, I admire your tailoring skills!

  2. And my choice of entertainment?
    But,seriously,thank you Susanne. I am sure Missy M will be happy for you to sew for her at 13,just practice the poker face when they are describing what they want.
    Then memorise this 'Wow,that sounds awesome. How can we make that acceptable for Daddy''?
    xx N

  3. I am excited to see this!! Can't wait!

    1. Thank you Sharon,I hope you get your overlocker sorted.
      xx N

  4. I'm hoping K will be taken in by the finished dress and agree for me to sew a fancy dress for her.;)

    1. I hope so Cindy,if I had time I would make a soft denim version first.
      I think this may be a popular dress now-she is wrapped with the bodice fit.
      xx N

  5. Me too, Cindy! (Rosie's in a non dress phase.....)
    Thanks for this Nicole - the muslin process is now much clearer for me :-)

  6. Thank you Justine.
    I have no idea if this is the RIGHT way but it is how I have made a few muslin bodices now and it works!
    It does not really take that long and I quite enjoy the process.
    xx N

  7. Looking forward to seeing the finished product, and thanks for the muslin fitting lesson. Good to have some good tuneage playing in the background whilst sewing. Tim Minchin sounds awesome.

  8. Oh Deb,he is!

    Thank you for your compliments but I am pretty sure you could give me a muslin fitting lesson.
    xx N

  9. This is an excellent post on sewing a muslin, you show the steps so clearly. I'm looking forward to seeing it finished :-)

  10. Thank you Angela,I really had no firm idea what to do but it worked!
    xx N