Monday, February 4, 2013

Lisette Traveller Shirt

So,in keeping with my pledge to sew an item(or outfit)for each member of the family,one after the other,I was next.
And I made this.
The Lisette Traveller shirt,made is a soft voile a special chum sent me. She purchased it from Spotlight.
I wear a AUS 12 and I made a 14 with no mods. Apart from being a bit firm in the arms it is perfect.
I have found a few of the Lisette tops a bit firm there but I do have chunky arms.
So if you are quite muscular or a little cuddly(like me) add a little to the seam allowance in the sleeves.
It is a fairly quick sew but I have put a tutorial together,just in case!
Stay stitch the neckline at 3/8ths.
Don't skip this step,start at the outside neck and sew in to the middle.
Mark the darts on the wrong side of the fabric.

Pin the in place.
Sew the darts.
Tie off the threads rather then reverse securing them,it gives a neater finish.
Press the dart well.
Don't skimp on pressing your seams.
Press the dart downwards.
Sew the shoulder seams.
I like to use a thin strip of interfacing to stabilise the seam.
Sew the side seams.
Press the seams towards the back of the shirt.
Stitch a folding guide seam along the hem.
Press the hem along the fold line.
If you are finding it difficult to press a nice curve see how I hem this shirt scroll along a bit.
Tuck the edge under and press and pin in place.
Continue around the curve.
Slowly and with care,stitch the hem in place.
After sewing the hem,place the two fronts together and check they are the same length. Trim if they are uneven.
Interface two of the four front placket pieces.
Now I go a bit 'off road' as far as the pattern instructions.
On the un-notched edge fold a 3/8ths seam and press in place.
Press the edges well and let them cool and 'set'
Pin the non interfaced placket piece right side to the shirt wrong side matching notches.
Sew with the narrower 3/8ths seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance towards the placket.
Press well from the other side too.
I know I bang on about pressing and ironing but it is the key to a good finish,really truly!
Pin the interfaced placket to the sewn in placket right sides together.
The bottom of the placket is sewn across to match the original hem.
After sewing trim the seam and the corner.
Press the seam towards the placket.
Use a collar point to gently push out the placket corner.
Pin the placket in place and topstitch along the edge.
I like to stitch along the placket edge as well.
Next the collar and sleeves!
xx N