Friday, April 15, 2011

Music Class Blouse meets Market Top

It was time to sew some more of the girls Winter Wardrobe 2011.
A Music Class Blouse with a twist was on the drawing board.
Miss E loved the sleeves on the Lisette Market Top so we had a little play..... if you are interested see below ....
I will warn you,its a long one!
(The blog that is,not the shirt)!

Stay stitch the front and back neck edges.
As directed in the pattern stay stitch a hemming guide.
Apply interfacing to the front pieces as directed.
I omitted the pin tucks as the fabric was so busy and gathered the lower back to fit the back yoke.
Pin and sew keeping the gathers even.
Do the same with the front pieces and press the seams up.
I like to top stitch these seams.
Following the pattern press the front sides in
Stitch close to the fold and trim.
Following the pattern fold the fronts back on the fold lines and stitch to dot.
Following the pattern clip to dot.
Close up.
Following the pattern,stitch across the bottom of the placket
Trim,following directions
Turn and gently push out the corners.
I like to pre-fold my hem before turning and press well. 
The front placket and hem
Inside and outside
(I stitch a tiny bit of my hem near the placket to keep it in place)
Sew the shoulders seams and iron the seams to the back.

Finished body!
Fold the collar in half and check that it is even.
Trim any uneven bits,no matter how small
Cut out interfacing for one collar piece.
Trim the seam allowance from the collar cut from interfacing
Save the trimmings,they are perfect for shoulders seams and the front of Hopscotch tops
Apply interfacing to one collar piece
Following the instructions,stay stitch the collar and pink or cut notches along the edge. Press along the stitching line 
The collar pieces
Mark the stitching line if you fancy,it can help get that perfect curve,pin and sew the collar,catching the folded seam at each end.
Turn the collar and roll the seam gently to get a good finish,then press well.
Pin the interfaced collar to the neck of the shirt,I like to pin each end,then the middle and ease the rest in.
I like to stitch from each edge to the middle rather then starting at one side and stitching it in one motion.
Trim the seam.
Press the trimmed seam into the collar
Pin the collar in place with the seams neatly tucked inside
I like to start in the middle of the collar and take my time stitching all the way around the collar,at times using the hand wheel rather then the pedal. Slow and Steady!
The finished collar.
Such a nice finish!
Pin the side seams matching notches
Sew and press the seams to the back.
I like to finish my hems now,a neat double fold using the stay stitch as a hemming guide.
Unpick the stay stitching.
Make your button holes
For some tips see  here !
Sew on your buttons
Nearly there!
I like to sew a small clear popper under this flap.
To make the sleeves,I used the long sleeve pattern piece and folded it to the desired length.
Gather between the notches on the shoulders and a section at the base of the sleeve.
Sew the side seams of the sleeves and press the seam to the front to reduce underarm bulk.
(The blouse seam was pressed to the back)
I measured my daughters arm to make a cuff.
Fold and press the cuff in half,then fold and press a seam allowance either side.
Interface one side of the cuff,but not the seam,and sew together.
Pin the RIGHT side of the cuff to the WRONG side of the sleeve,after gathering the threads to fit the cuff.
This seam can be stitched on the inside if it is a bit fiddly!
Press the seams towards the cuff and then using your fold lines make your cuff and top stitch in place.
(If it is fiddly,turn it inside out and stitch like above)

Gathering the threads on the sleeve to fit the blouse,matching notches,pin and sew the sleeve to the blouse body.
Press the seams out to the sleeves and you are finished!
Pretty in Pink
Miss E wearing it HER way!
Everything is coming up roses....

Goodness,is anyone still there?
Well done if you made it to the end and I hope it has been some help to someone!
Now,go and have a nice cup of tea.



  1. A beautiful top for your gorgeous girl. Thanks for the detailed step by step - lots of helpful hints throughout. Well done !

  2. Actually I did read to the end and found some useful tips especially regarding collars. Also, as I sew the puppet show dress I was thinking how I may start adding a cute sleeve cuff to more things too.

  3. I am so pleased!
    I know it is a lot of photos but sometimes if you can see things being made it can help!
    Well Done for getting to the bottom!
    Thank you both!

  4. Nicole, I'm going to bookmark your page for reference. Thank you for putting this together!

  5. My pleasure Susanne!
    Thank you!

  6. Lovely job, Nicole.

    If you are at all interested, you could do the first attaching of the cuff to the sleeve, then stitch the sleeve in flat, then the side seam and sleeve seam at once, then flip up the cuff and stitch it down. There's a really clever way to sew the sleeve in the flat, leaving a couple of inches, then finishing the sleeve in the round...really cool. It was a technique I learned last year at Sewing Expo. Here's a link if you are interested in learning a new way: I like to attach my cuffs, before I stitch up my sleeve seam, especially when working with smaller sized garments. Much easier. :)

    Congratulations on getting all that sewing done! I hope you find time to sleep. :)

  7. That's an interesting way to do it Carol,but my new machine has attitude problems!

    Perhaps you need to start a blog with your handy tips? I am sure it would be very well received.

  8. I still really love the cuffs.

  9. what's a popper??

  10. I'm going to guess it's a snap.

  11. Absolutely Johanna,I am trying to make it simple-sorry Sandi. A sew in press stud???
    I have packets of vintage ones all different sizes.

  12. I wish I had read this post before! I am very critical of my finished collars and I think if I took your advice and sewed them on from each edge to the middle, they would sit better. Mine always look 'bubbly'. Thanks Nicole, you are good.

  13. I was giving this tip by my priest, believe it or not.
    His mother was a dress maker.
    xx N